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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Ski Gear Discussion › De-tune the tips and tails..what does that do?
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De-tune the tips and tails..what does that do?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Can someone please explain to me what de-tuning is and does? My son just bought new Crossmax's and the store, suggested de-tuning the tips and tails. Should we do this?
post #2 of 12
tell them NO.
detuning basicly is dulling of the tips and tails. if you carry a pocket stone you can do it on the hill a little at a time. Find a shop that is willing to show you how and start gradually.

I have found that the blanket detune of the tips and tails is almost not necessary anymore. If you find that the skis are "grabby or hooking" then you might want to detune them a little. start at the tip and go about .5 to 1" at a time. until they feel comfortable. Most of the modern skis you want as much of the edge working as possible so no detuning should be necessary.

Oh yeah, the main answer to your question. detuning makes the ski a little more forgiving but you sacrifice some edge hold and control.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ October 19, 2001 11:33 AM: Message edited 1 time, by dchan ]</font>
post #3 of 12

Detunning is essentially dulling certain portions of a ski edge in the tip & tail region of the ski. Usually beginning at or near the contact points (point where the ski no longer contacts a flat surface when placed base down & flexed) & extending to the point where there is no longer edge material.

The theory behind it is prevention of premature edge engagement at the beginning of a turn, correct release at the end of a turn & forgiveness when you find yourself off center.

There is a school of thought now that for carving skis, the entire length of the edge should be sharp for better grip during the turn.

Ultimately, it boils down to a personal preference or a manufacturers suggestion.
post #4 of 12

Sorry for basically restating exactly what you said. I walked away from my pc with the reply window open & couldn't see that you had answered the question already.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys...
I will question them as to why they recommend the de-tune. Very helpful..thank you both.
post #6 of 12
One has to find their own preferance for tuning. It used to generally accepted that on softer snow you wanted more detuning . . . however these days I've found that whether I'm skiing out East, West or overseas my favorite tune remains the same. I like my skis dead flat, very sharp, with no detuning on the tip or tail - but a one degree base bevel (no side bevel). But we each have to find our own needs.
post #7 of 12

Just out of pure curiosity...have you tried a 1 or 2 degree side bevel on harder packed snow?
post #8 of 12
I woundnt detune your Crossmax's. Thats what they did with old straight ski's, i would suggest that if the a ski seems grabby or hooks, increse the base bevel by a half degree at the tips and tail were the others have suggested detuning. With new ski's just leave them alone dont touch them at all, they will work fine. As far as base and side bevels it depends on the ski make, Atomic for an example has a 1 degree base bevel and 3 degree side bevel from the factory, which is exactly what i would tune them too, for Atomics,,I do 1.5 degree base bevel at the tips and tail to keep them from being hooky. i dont no what your crossmaxs should be, best to email them and ask what the factory recommends. Another example are my K2 Mod X ski's the factory tune is 1 degree base and 1 degree side bevel, i do that but on the tips and tail i do 1.5 degree base bevel just at the tips and tail section. the rest of the ski i have a 1 and 1 setting. Works well. I got my info direct from Atomic and K2 for my ski's.

But like i said DONT detune your new ski's just leave alone and iam sure you will like them just the way the come.
post #9 of 12
Yeah - racing, I used to use a 1 degree base and 2 degree side. But freeskiing it makes the edge more fragile and I'm not trying to beat anybody down a slope . . . so I don't bother!
post #10 of 12

I like the edge hold a 2 degree side gives me. Probably wont ever go much over that because of the maintenance so I'm with ya on that one for sure.

Tomba has used a 7 degree side bevel before! Can you freaking believe that? Would hate to be his tech.
post #11 of 12
If you're an intermediate who skids their turns, you'd better detune or you'll be a very unhappy camper. Since most people who buy gear are intermediates no matter how good a story they talk, the shop detunes as a matter of course. I detune a little. I really want to be able to avoid locking the ski into its natural arc in tight trees. I also find I hang my tails on things in the bumps if they're too sharp. I suppose if I had better skills, it wouldn't be necessary.
post #12 of 12
This is my take which generally reflects what has been said by most in this thread with a few other thoughts.

Detuning with a pocket stone lightly at the tips and tails may be fine in certain conditions but I would not ask the shop to do any "detuning" unless you find out exactly what it is they propose to do. If your skis feel "hooky" when you ski you can have the shop increase the base edge bevel at the tips rather than having the tips dulled back. Check also to see that the tail bar evenly meets the ski edges.

With conventional skis that were longer with straighter sidecuts, shops would often dull the tips and tails with a file presuming that they were intended only to be used to skid turns. The result was that that then became all that the ski could do. This was okay when skidded turns were the norm for most skiers.

Now skis are designed to carve much more easily than before. Aggressive "detuning" of shaped skis defeats the purpose of the designers and limits the possibilities of the skier.

What I would do first is to check that the bases are flat along their length particularly at the tip. With wider shaped skis they are often very concave out of the box(with really wide tips it may not be possible to get them completely flat without removing a lot of edge). New skis can be concave, convex or both at different points along their lengths. If they are not flat ask the shop to deal with that issue.

Check each ski for warpage which you can do by placing the base of the ski against something very flat like a plate glass window. Apply a little pressure against the ski and check to see whether it lies perfectly flat against the window at all four contact points or if it rocks back and forth. Warpage can occur in skis and if it exists then have the shop replace them because warpage cannot be corrected.

Although some skiers may have personal preferences when it comes to base and side bevels you should be safe if you stick to the ski factory specs when asking the shop to do any work on your skis. The designers took base and side bevel issues into account when they designed the ski.

Flat bases, with no warpage and a factory spec side and base bevel generally seems to reflect the attitude of ski shop techs that I've talked to for most skis sold today(I understand that Atomics have their own considerations which have been the subject of some interesting exchanges in past threads but since you bought Salomon's there is no need to get into that discussion here).

A final thought, I don't know whether the CrossMax comes with pre mounted bindings or even exactly how their system works. When mounting conventional bindings, the bindings should match up with arrows on your boots and the arrows or centerline mark on each ski unless you have a special reason for mounting them forward or aft. I had an experience once with one binding mounted properly and the other one way off. I only discovered it when I went skiing.

Have fun with your new skis.
Unfortunatly I've taken an oath not to by new ski equipment this year. I wonder
If a new ski jacket counts.
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