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Atomic Race Binding Question: 10'18 versus 614

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'm 6'3" 220lbs 45 years old and size 12 boot (342 mm I think). I am considering a pair of Atomic GS:11's, so as I understand things the bindings will have to be Atomic.

On my other skis I am skiing on a DIN setting of 8 with no release problems and I like to go fast. (On average I release maybe twice in ten days of skiing, usually in bizarre bump situations). So am I better off with the Race 10'18 or the 614?

Also, I've seen a few posts about problems with the Atomic bindings. Is my understanding correct on having to use Atomic bindings on these skis or is there a reasonable alternative?


post #2 of 12

I’m pretty sure that you need to use atomic bindings for the GS11. I believe that the only difference between the race10’18 and the 614 is the DIN. The 10’18 has a range of 10-18, and the 614 has a range of... you get the idea. You shouldn’t need the 10-18 DIN unless you’re doing masters racing (Especially if your current setting is 8)
post #3 of 12
I've got a pair of 10:18's on some M:EX boards - but they're race-stock bindings. So the fundamental difference aside from the DIN is that they've removed a lot of the plastic and replaced it with (aluminum?) or a steel alloy. You could rob a bank with the heel pieces alone.

They're a ton heavier than the conventional 9:14's, but they're very solid with respect to the well-discussed problems that Atomic bindings are notorious for. So, if all of the 10:18's are the race-stock version you'll be fine.

I'm 6'2" and 210, ski really aggressively, and I've never pre-released with the 10:18's. Albeit, I've got the DIN on 12 - but, I think I'd rip the screws out of the skis before coming out of these things.:
post #4 of 12
I have never had any release problem with either 614 or 1018.

If you were satisfied with DIN 8, how would you like to use a binding with the DIN range 10-18?

Even if your older binding was a Look/Rossi with the well-known lower setting and you wanted 9-10 now (hardly more considering the age, sole length, weight and non-racer status) the 6-14 range is what you need.
post #5 of 12
The general rule of thumb for Atomic race bindings is that you want to use a binding that will put your selected DIN setting in the "middle" of the range of the binding. For someone that sets their bindings to 8, then either the 4:12 or the 6:14 would be acceptable. Based on the rule of thumb, the 4:12 would be a "better" choice for you. However, as a diehard Atomic user, and a guy who sets his bindings at about 7.5 - 8.5, I use 6:14's on almost all of my Atomic Race skis.

The 6:14's have more adjustment settings than the 4:12's, although I have never used anything but the "all the way forward" setting on any of my race skis.

If you got the 10:18's the lowest DIN setting you could use would be 10. Are you really ready to step up 2 settings? I know people that ski with their bindings set that high, but they are extremely good very high level racers.

Go for the 6:14's.

Just my opinions, and only because you asked.

post #6 of 12
Go with the 614 or maybe the race 614. If you get the 1018 and set it at say 12. It might not release when you need it and your next stop could be the Hospital. Unless your a racer do not set your din higher then you should. But then again, it's your body. You do anything you want to it, just don't say we told you to.
post #7 of 12
Yo Stratify -

Did you have to bend the brakes on those 1018s to fit the M:Ex and was it difficult? I'm going to try and use some Race 614s on the same ski. Thanks

post #8 of 12
No. I actually got the bindings from a friend of mine in Jackson. They came equipped with the extra-wide brakes, so I was able to avoid the problem altogether.
post #9 of 12
Without a doubt you should be on a 6.14. I ski mine on 10. Exactly in the middle of the range.

The DIN chart puts your setting at 10 for a TYPE III skier.

You really don't want to ski your bindings on the absolute lowest DIN setting
post #10 of 12
I use 1018s on all my skis, but not for the retension. I generally have them set at 12, so I can use either the 614 or 1018. I have the 1018 only because I'm at races often, and if any of the athletes have an issue, I can sacrifice my bindings so they can get on with what they're supposed to do. Its the same reason I have race boots and not the production models.

For you, with an 8 setting, the 614 is fine, and you have plenty of room for a higher setting if needed.
post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the help, I went with the race 614 on a GS:11 in a 193 length. I got a pretty good deal on the package for 2004 skis due to the graphics change. I understand from some other posts that a slight adjustment of the forward tension may be in order to prevent the horrors of premature release (relax, don't do it...), so we will work with these and see what can be done.
post #12 of 12
As for 412, maybe I got a bad set but I've had everything from the plastic adjusting pieces in the front fall off, the center cover plastic break, to the actual heal piece falling off (the adjuster is only held in by plastic). Not sure if the 614's are like that but stay clear from the 412 IMO.

I'm skiing them on atomic beta rides.

Friend skis on K2 Factory Test with 412 and has had similar plastic housing breaking problems.

(6'2" 200lbs, aggressive, non racer, set at 9.50)
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