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Help w/ adjusting Atomic bindings

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
I got my 10.20s and Race/Race 310 bindings via mail order and the shop adjusted the bindings based on my 313mm boot size. Well, that was WAY too big.

So, using the screw at the rear I've cranked the heel section as far forward as it will go, and it still seems a bit large. I'm not popping out too much, but it is clearly not correct. I'm stubborn, and don't have a ski shop closer than an hour away, so would like some advice on adjusting these bindings on my own.

Is there a way that I can move the heel section forward, with the microadjustment set at it's midpoint, instead of all the way forward like it is now? And how much do I crank down the verticle adjustment for the toe piece. I seem to remember that the boot toe should just barely be touching the contact point of the binding. Though I may be wrong.

Any technicians out there?


post #2 of 3
I would strongly recommend that you bring the skis to the shop and let them do it. However if you are inclined to do it yourself, here is what you want to do (JUST A LEGAL DISCLAIMER: I assume no responsibility for the consequences).

The heel piece has three adjusment screws. Bottom one adjusts the position of the heel piece. You want to adjust it so that when your boot is inserted in toe piece and you move it down to engage in the heel piece, there is very little clearance (1-2mm) between the boot and the top part of the binding (the one that locks you boot). If you are out of adjustment range - you have to remount the binding. Fourtunately your ski has an integrated plate that make the job relatively easy.

Once you adjusted the position you want to set the DIN (second adjustment screw). I can not say anything about the value without knowing your weight/height/boot sole length/the type of skier you are.

The top screw is the forward pressure spring adjustment. AS FAR AS I REMEMBER (I really not sure on that particular model) once the boot is in the binding you want to adjust it so that it is flush with the surface.


Making a turn where you have to is different from making a turn where you want to...
post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
Found it. You need to loosen the screw below the ball of the foot. After removing the plastic piece, the adjustment can be made. The heel piece can be moved separately from the toe now. There are boot numbers in mm on the metal spar for a reference. Then after reassembling, minor adjustment can be made with the screw in the rear.

Thanks though.

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