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Moving Marker bindings forward?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I have Marker Motion AT bindings w/ PCOS. How can these bindings be moved forward? I turned the screw on the side 90 degress but binding won't move (didn't try very hard). Is the piston thing independent of the binding or does that have to be moved too? My new boots are almost two cm shorter. I thought the bindings were too far back to begin with and now I have moved the toe piece farther back to accomadate the new boots. Please advise, thanks.
post #2 of 11
Are these the integrated bindings on a rail? You turned what screw 90 degrees? The anchor pin with the padlock symbol next to it? If you are talking about a Volkl integrated marker binding, the pin by the heel must have the slot in the vertical position to lock the unit on the rail. The dial in the center of the binding controls size and forward pressure. None of these will change the position of the binding on the ski, but could result in failure of the binding to properly release, or coulld allow the connection pin to slide out and... well it wouldn't be pretty. As far as I know there is only one slot that the bindng can be anchored to. It might be possible to drill another one farther forward, but I am concerned about the adjustments you have made.
post #3 of 11
I am no expert but I have made similar adjustments using the same method you mentioned without incident. I would like to know if that is wrong too
post #4 of 11
The binding you have is anchored by the pin you turned 90 degrees.

Its really not that terribly difficult. Not to be rude, but if it isn't immediately apparent to you that turning that screw 90 degrees does nothing but unlock that pin in the axial sense, I really think you'd be better off walking into a shop. This isn't stuff to mess around with lightly, unless you don't consider your legs to be important.
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Cirquerider, Are you saying I pull the pin out which frees the binding, I then drill a new hole in the rail farther forward?

Skiingman, You say you know how to do it but aren't going to tell me? Don't worry, I will be safe. I have mounted over a hundred bindings, just not this particular one. With the pin out and I push the binding, I want to be sure it is ok to use force without damaging anything. I just need some documentation or a couple of sentences.
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Kestner, I'm sure you did it correctly. My point is if the change in boot size is alot, the boot's center line will not line up with the ski's centerline by simply moving the toe front or back (it appears to me only the toe is moving when the dial is turned, I cannot see the centerline on the ski as it is hidden under the binding). I believe I need to move the whole binding forward a cm or so.

I'm 99% sure I know what to do but if a SHOP guy or gal can confirm I would appreciacate.
post #7 of 11
I am not recommending that you change the position of the heel lock pin. The lock pin is cammed so that it slides into the rail and behind the outer shell of the binding in the horizontal position, then locks behind the binding shell in the vertical position. This prevents the pin from accidently disengaging from the rail and binding. Marker and Volkl would never approve of modifying the rails by drilling a different attachment point, and this kind of modificaiton would likely void any warranty and binding indemnification. If this is the pin you are talking about. Return it to the verical position and adjust forward pressure.

You should work with a ski shop for fore-aft position adjustment and be sure forward pressure is properly set on the binding, for your boots (approximately set by scale under toepiece AFD). The forward pressure indicator is a black cylindar in the center of the heel near the binding plate. When forward pressure is properly adjusted, the triangular arrow must be partly hidden by the binding housing, but not fully concealed or exposed. The slotted screw above that indicator is the DIN adjustment. Don't mess with it unless you know what you are doing. Preferred position is for boot center (marked on most boots) to line up with the "I" mark on the ski sidewall (I assume you have Volkl). This should be how your ski was originally setup if it was done by a technician. Marker only approves of binding adjustments and installation by certified technicians. Do not make radical changes without consulting one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NCskier
I turned the screw on the side 90 degress but binding won't move (didn't try very hard).
This sounds like the lock pin. It should be returned to the vertical position. The binding is easily removed by turning the lock pin horizontal, pushing it out from the opposite side and pulling it from the binding, then sliding the binding off the tail. Compress the ski to remove camber. Removing the binding does not change any DIN, pressure or length adjustments when it is reinstalled.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NCskier
My new boots are almost two cm shorter. I thought the bindings were too far back to begin with and now I have moved the toe piece farther back to accomadate the new boots.
Length and forward pressure are based on rotating the dial in the center of the binding. A tab pulls out of the left side and the dial can be rotated to change the binding length, and the tab locks the dial. Flatten the camber out of ski if this is hard to rotate. Both the toe and heel move keeping the boot center aligned with the ski center regardless of size. There is no way to only move the toe or heel. Changes in length will change forward pressure; a critical adjustment for safety and function. What length and model of ski are you on? Does the boot center align with the "I"?

Hope this helps.
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks, my boot center is behind the "I". I did not realize the "I" was the center. When I removed the bindings I was surprised to see how far apart the pin locations are. I think my mistake was assuming only the toe was moving when I adjust the dial for boot size - it sure appears that way but I will look again. Now I still have the centering issue. Obviously, the mounting procedure is to select the closest pin slot in the rail based on boot size (but not drill in between). This seems to me not to be very accurate - perhaps you can straighten me out on that.
post #9 of 11
After taking a second look, it appears you were right that only the toe moves in length adjustment. Given the size range for this binding that means you could end up significantly in back of center if you have a small foot. My boots are right on center (330 mm).

If your boot center and ski center are significantly off, it may be possible to drill a hole through the aluminum rails to do this. I am aware of only one possible mounting location, the other openings are not lock pin holes, but slots to keep the rail flexible. I have not done it, and I am not qualified to recommend you do it; but it may be possible. Ideally you could talk to a Marker binding tech about this. Well, at least now you can see the ski without the binding.:
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
My local shop does all this stuff for free, including letting me demo all of the skis I want. That is why I'm nervous about bringing in a pair of skis from ebay - could damage our relationship.

I know it is not uncommon to drill the side of the rail, but like you say, if it is not done buy the shop, the warantee is void. I'll just bring it in.

thanks guys.
post #11 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCskier
My local shop does all this stuff for free, including letting me demo all of the skis I want. That is why I'm nervous about bringing in a pair of skis from ebay - could damage our relationship.
For good reason, perhaps.
Quote:
I know it is not uncommon to drill the side of the rail, but like you say, if it is not done buy the shop, the warantee is void. I'll just bring it in.

thanks guys.
That actually would be pretty uncommon.
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