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Why can't I make very shallow P-tex repairs?

post #1 of 10
Unless your a high level racer that little dimple won't matter, don't worry about it. Your bases don't need to be perfect. I use a small propane flame to do my big repairs, I heat the base a little then drip in the P'tex, than heat the repair a little. Just becareful you don't want to use to much heat. Let it COOL for a while, back to room temp.

Or, like most people have a shop do it. Again if it's that small you can't feel the deference anyways. Don't worry about it.
post #2 of 10
I rarely bother with that small of scratch. I suspect two things caused the repair not to hold. First, you didn't clean the base with citrus cleaner to get rid of excess wax and grime. Second, you used the wrong P-Tex. The P-Tex that comes in candles has a very high wax content which is what burns when you light it. The wax causes it to not bind well. I've made minor scratch repairs using P-Tex string which has a very low wax content and they usually hold.
post #3 of 10
Dr....I mean Ladede, don't get crazy on us. It is just a little scratch!
post #4 of 10
I have found that working over my bases with a steel wire brush to effect a "spring snow structure" effectively masks these small scale defects and does a great job of modifying my attitude about them!

No, I call them "Wax holders"!

post #5 of 10

Have not tried it myself but the Toko base repair powder may work for minor scratches like that. You don't burn or drip it, the powder is ironed on to the base with a wax iron and under a sheet of special paper.

http://www.artechski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code =09K

If you try it please let us know how it turns out.

post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 

Why can't I make very shallow P-tex repairs?


I have an issue with very shallow P-tex repairs. The kind where you can see you went over a rock but you need to run your fingernail on the base to feel the scratch (maybe one or two tenths of a mm wide and large).

I tried to repair those using an iron and the repair just goes away when I scrape. I thought that may be because my iron has a conical tip and not a flat one (the iron is this one: go to www.radioshack.com and enter 64-2188 in the search box) which makes my repair look crappy. This is the first time I am using an iron so help is appreciated on technique.

But even with a candle, the scratch is so shallow that when I scrape the P-tex flat, everything comes with it.

I also suspect it may simply be because I didn't use a wax remover prior to repairing (just brushed and fibertexed) but I don't always use one and usually deeper repairs just hold. Could it just be that? I think the shallowness has something to do with the issue too.

Any ideas / advice?


[Edit: iron reference instead of URL that isn't persistent...]

[ March 28, 2003, 12:28 AM: Message edited by: Ladede ]
post #7 of 10
Try the Base Repair Iron from Tognar toolworks. I use it with the optional wide tip and it works great for almost any repair. For minor gouges, use the p-tex repair ribbon on the same page.

I agree also, that unless you're a high level racer doing downhills, there is no need to bother with many of these minor scratches. The next time you get a good stonegrind, they should be mostly gone anyhow.
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
OK so I was bored and I wanted to try it I am sure I won't feel the difference of repair / no repair.

As I said I tried both the P-tex string using an iron (but conical tip) and then a candle (just to see). I also have some ribbon, no powder.

I'll try the experiment later maybe after some local cleaning w/ citrus cleaner. That, and the ribbon or getting some powder, may be the ticket.

post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Duplicate, dang.

[ March 28, 2003, 09:32 PM: Message edited by: Ladede ]
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Originally posted by John J:
Dr....I mean Ladede
I myself get confused between those two identities

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