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How to remove Lange "booster" Straps

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hi ho,

I'm trying to remove the "booster" straps from the cuff of my boots, but have a problem --- the round nuts simply spin around when I crank on the allen key. Can't seem to stop it.

I want to remove them so that I can heat the cuff and flare it back a touch. I found a dog food dish to be about the right size.

I've cut the liners under the rand several times. The rand peels off easily when heated with a heat gun. To put it back on, I heat it again, and the glue gets sticky once more.... works great!


Cheers!
post #2 of 17
You'll have to drill them out to remove the strap. You should be able to get replacement bolts at any ski shop.
post #3 of 17
BigE, I ahd to drill mine out, and it was some work. It looks like a bolt, but is really a rivet. When I started to drill, the whole rivet spun. I had to use oil and a lot of pressure. I gather you are putting on booster straps. I did and am very happy with them. They improve the fit of tongue and liner around my slender leg. I went to a good hardware store for replacement bolts.

BTW, did you see my post on your lateral/rotary poll that I modified the hinge point on my Langes? I put another rivet (actually bolt) 3/4 of an inch higher on the inside. I didn't have to drill out the old one. The boot flexes fine, but my knee no longer tracks to the inside and I have better grip in the tail at the end of my turns. I score one for HH. I seem to need the Lange forward lean and even had to increase the ramp angle. Net result is the best skiing boots I have ever had. LewBob
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Congrats on the boot mods.

It's really a rivet? Even with the allen key head? Yiikes.

In that case, what did you do to fix the boosters? A very small carriage bolt?

I'm actually trying to flare the back of the cuff. Maybe I can do that without taking the strap off, and just using muffler tape between the strap and the cuff, to protect the strap from the heat gun?

If I can't do that, I'll have to remove the cuff alignement bolt, and grind the lower part of the cuff.

I want a touch less forward lean, and was going to start just by heating the cuff.
post #5 of 17
I drilled mine off & replaced with booster straps with a t-nut and screw, flat on the back side
post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
ding ding ding! I have a source of those at home already -- an old hockey helmet!

Thank you Atomicman!
post #7 of 17
Yeah it really a rivet disguised as a bolt. I used a t-nut and bolt and used the washer that comes with the boot. I would take the rivets out to do your mods. Also, a booster strap can be used to pull you more upright. Once you have changed rivets to bolts it will be easy to try Booster staps if you wish.

I think that some fitters drill out the inside hinge and then use a Dremel to grind off the bottom rear of the cuff so that the cuff goes more upright before hitting the stop. Then they replace the hinge with a bolt. Can you visualize that? You might think about that before messing with the top of the cuff, unless it is small for your calf.

When I modified my boots I was skiing with an old friend and, very good skier, in Steamboat. I worked as a salesman/bootfitter at his shop in Steamboat in the late 70's so he knows what a tinkerer I am. He saw the difference in my turn finish. I offered to "fix" his Langes, but he declined. Can't figure out why!!!! Good luck, LewBob
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
It is small for my calf -- which makes my feet cold.

I won't have to drill out the hinge -- since I'm bowlegged, the outside of the cuffs hit the stop at the heel first.

If I can remove the cuff alignment adjuster without breaking it, I can straighten the boots just a touch with some very minor filing...

But one thing at a time. First flaring the cuff, which will make things a bit more upright as the cuff won't push forward on the calf so much. Then ski it! If the cuff needs to be filed at the back I'll do it then....

FYI: I've peeled back the rand on the liners and cut the boots to give me more toe-room. The left boot is great. The right liner touches the toe of the shell just a bit...

I've removed BOTH bolts from the back of the cuff to help soften the boot. That's just an experiment. I want to feel the difference it makes -- I removed one, tried it and liked it. Now the other one is gone.

Got to get the flex and the lean just right!
post #9 of 17
Dont know what the rand is. Is that a Canadian term? I had to open the stitching on my liner too, though mine is a Conform'able foam. I have just enough toe room and no black toenail! A first. You should see how much padding we had to put on the outside of the foam liner as I am so skinny. Fortunately my bootfitter has great material that is quite firm, and he did a great job fitting it.

I knew there was a reason I keep my boots for a decade or more!! It takes me half the season the get new boots fitting and functioning to where I can enjoy skiing. Just got there in the last few weeks. Which Lange do you have? LewBob
post #10 of 17
Hold up a second....
What model of the Langes are you doing this too? When I had my Boosters on my Banshee's I had the same probem as everyone... the nut just spinning. Then I clamped it tight to the back of the boot with a 'C' clamp. That held it in place and it was easy to turn the allen bolt out.

Because you removed both bolts to ease the flex, I'm thinking its a newer Comp, but try what i did to my banshee's.
post #11 of 17
RJP, I tried that at first too, but then realized it was a rivet. My boots are the Comp 100 from last year and BigE's are new also, bought last spring or summer. LewBob
post #12 of 17
man, what were they thinking making an allen headed rivet... Look/ Lange/ Dynastar has given us Autodrive, the pivot binding, and now the Fake bolt... these guys are at the leading edge of design:
post #13 of 17
Rivet is cheaper to install, but fake bolt looks better. Fooled BigE and me, after all. Lew
post #14 of 17
On 2005 Freeride 120 comps, the allens screws are really screws. Came right out with a 3mm wrench.
post #15 of 17
Interesting... Maybe they cheaped out on Comp 100's, or I am an incompetent mechanic. Either way, I got them off and they screw out easily now.
post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LewBob
Dont know what the rand is. Is that a Canadian term? I had to open the stitching on my liner too, though mine is a Conform'able foam. I have just enough toe room and no black toenail! A first. You should see how much padding we had to put on the outside of the foam liner as I am so skinny. Fortunately my bootfitter has great material that is quite firm, and he did a great job fitting it.

I knew there was a reason I keep my boots for a decade or more!! It takes me half the season the get new boots fitting and functioning to where I can enjoy skiing. Just got there in the last few weeks. Which Lange do you have? LewBob
The rand is the rubber/plastic underside of the boot. To get to the felt liner bottom to cut, you heat it with a heat gun. That softens the glue, and it's easy to pull back. To restick, you heat it again and stick it back together....

Even after cutting, the liners are still too small....

OTOH, removing both bolts radically softened the boot. It's very soft, and very easy to ski, and still has loads of lateral stiffness. I love the response, and the easy flex -- I can easily flex the ankle which helps balance, and my skiing has become far more athletic and fun! Transition is way smoother.

It's gonna take more surgery..... I'm thinking that I'll have to cut the felt bottom all the way around the toe-box, from ball of foot to pinky. Or maybe remove and replace with something larger. Or maybe even cut the top of the liner. I don't know. Perhaps a bootfitter should be brought in, since I don't know the next step. Boots are cold from liner pressure on the big toes. the feet freeze from the big toe back. Little toes are fine....
post #17 of 17
You've got all you need already, T-nut, drill. Pesonally I dremel off the end of the rivet as it leads to less annoying spinning. The comp 130 is a real nut too.

I like a football for flaring but it the dog dish works....

I've never had to cut the felt all around the toes like you're describing but then I had a nice forefoot expander that stretched things nice and wide. Never had to cut the top of the liner either but it can work. You can actually open the stitching over the toes and then glue in some fleece to keep the warmth. Not my first choice but many have done it.
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