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Mounting Atomic Bindings

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
It looks very easy to mount the new Atomic 412 Bindings. Is this something I can do myself or should I have a shop do it?
post #2 of 20
I did mine myself with no issues, but for liability you might want to have the shop do it.
post #3 of 20
Absolutely easy, but there are a few things you need to know.

1. mount in correct holes in plate for your boot sole range

2. make sure toe is in allaround position when attaching steel band to toepiece.

3. Put steel band on the mark next lower number below bootsole length. ie. 304mm put on 300, 317mm, put on 310. 285mm hook on 280.

3. You must adjust toeheight with .5mm gap under your boottoe.

4. set forward pressure screw flush with housing with boot in binding.

5. remove boot and turn forward pressure screw in 1-2 clicks.

6. adjust DIN

You should be good to go!
post #4 of 20

I am all set except for this>>>

Where is the "forward pressure screw"?
post #5 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by gordopost
Where is the "forward pressure screw"?
Bottom screw at the rear of the heel piece!
post #6 of 20
Quick question regarding the 2004 Atomic Race Bindings I have on my Atomic SL:11s. Had these mounted by the shop I bought them at, but due to the short length of my boot (284mm, I wear a 24.5 mondo boot), I can only adjust the bindings to the 2 rear-most locations (of the Varizone), I cannot adjust the bindings to the 2 forward locations because the rear of the binding cannot move any farther forward. Do others with small boots also have this issue, or did they mount the bindings wrong?
post #7 of 20
Make sure you have a Posi-drive screw driver (#3).
post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by f2racer
Quick question regarding the 2004 Atomic Race Bindings I have on my Atomic SL:11s. Had these mounted by the shop I bought them at, but due to the short length of my boot (284mm, I wear a 24.5 mondo boot), I can only adjust the bindings to the 2 rear-most locations (of the Varizone), I cannot adjust the bindings to the 2 forward locations because the rear of the binding cannot move any farther forward. Do others with small boots also have this issue, or did they mount the bindings wrong?
I have a 296 sole, and mine will only go one forward and two back. They cannot physically go any more forward as I recall, so I would guess that yours are mounted correctly, and the 284 sole is just one more increment of the same problem.
post #9 of 20
I'd imagine the process for the neox bindings is similar, minus the toe height adjustment? How important is it to use a torque wrench to get the exact torques in the manual that comes with the binding?
post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by f2racer
Quick question regarding the 2004 Atomic Race Bindings I have on my Atomic SL:11s. Had these mounted by the shop I bought them at, but due to the short length of my boot (284mm, I wear a 24.5 mondo boot), I can only adjust the bindings to the 2 rear-most locations (of the Varizone), I cannot adjust the bindings to the 2 forward locations because the rear of the binding cannot move any farther forward. Do others with small boots also have this issue, or did they mount the bindings wrong?
This is due to your small boot size. The heel piece hits the brake assembly when trying to move the Variozone any farther forward!
post #11 of 20
Quote:
3. Put steel band on the mark next lower number below bootsole length. ie. 304mm put on 300, 317mm, put on 310. 285mm hook on 280.
The shop installed the binding for me, how can I tell if they centered the binding properly? Is there a ski center marker? Or somewhere that sort of indicates that this is near the center of the ski?

Quote:
3. You must adjust toeheight with .5mm gap under your boottoe.
It is pretty hard to measure .5mm. How many counter-clockwise turns of the screw would it be given that it is completely screwed down with the toepiece flush with the boot toe?
post #12 of 20
I could bet that this topic has been discussed per nauseum already. Use the search feature.
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by da-bum
The shop installed the binding for me, how can I tell if they centered the binding properly? Is there a ski center marker? Or somewhere that sort of indicates that this is near the center of the ski?


It is pretty hard to measure .5mm. How many counter-clockwise turns of the screw would it be given that it is completely screwed down with the toepiece flush with the boot toe?
1. I assume your on an Atomic of some flavor. they are not center mount. there are ranges of bootsole length marked on the plat on your ski. If the bindings are in the correct holes on the plate and the steel band connecting the the toe & heel is on the right mark as explained above and the toepiece is set in the "Allaround" position when this was done then you are mounted correctly.

2. You need a .5 mm piece of something (smooth plastic preferably) to use to adjust toe height.

You place the .5 mm spacer under your boot toe at the contact point with the AFD and tighten down the adjustment, pull back hard on the cuff of your boot and then see how much tension is on the spacer when you try to pull it out. You should be able to pull it out with a fair amount of effort. If it is locked in place your ntoe height is too low, repeat above step until you can pull the "card" out with a medium amount of effort.
There is not specific adjustment of the toeheight screw that corresponds to .5mm. everyone's boots ahave more or less wear and are different thicknesses even when new.

You must adjust your toe height properly. It sounds from your questions like you should only have a shop do this for you. You obviously don't have the experience to do this yourself!
post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by da-bum
It is pretty hard to measure .5mm. How many counter-clockwise turns of the screw would it be given that it is completely screwed down with the toepiece flush with the boot toe?
Own any tools?

How the heck do you gap plugs, or adjust valves? (Hehehe....rhetorical question)

You can get a set of feelers at your local shop for two or three bucks. They make excellent shims as well when you are done with them.
post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by skiingman
Own any tools?

How the heck do you gap plugs, or adjust valves? (Hehehe....rhetorical question)

You can get a set of feelers at your local shop for two or three bucks. They make excellent shims as well when you are done with them.
A flat credt type card, like a shopping store "bonus card" or such. One that is not embossed.
post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Pugliese
A flat credt type card, like a shopping store "bonus card" or such. One that is not embossed.
My drivers liscense works for me. I lined it up with my local shop's .5mm spacer card and it's a very close match. I agdjusted my Atomic toe piece height to the point where I can feel slight resistance between the boot sole and AFD while inserting and removing the card and pulling up on the boots toe at the same time. Curiously, I checked my Salomon toe pieces that the shop mounted and one was clearly set higher than the other. No serious release issues occured so I doubt highly if there is a major difference between adjustments that have a gap in the .4mm to .6mm range.

Next question.

Why must the boot be out of the binding when advancing the forward pressure screw one to two clicks past flush?
post #17 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornbread
Why must the boot be out of the binding when advancing the forward pressure screw one to two clicks past flush?
Take the AFD off, by removing the screw and lifting. Look at the cheesy-ass steel the heel track is made out of. Consider the implications of cutting a series of closely spaced slots in this already weakass piece of steel. Then consider what might happen to the whole shooting match when you apply serious torque on it by rotating a worm drive gear through those slots to drive the heel forward in relation to the track while a boot loads the forward pressure spring.

It ain't built for it. You very well may deform the track, making future adjustments difficult or impossible. Or it may just get sloppy, which will make your bindings release prematurely even more often than they do when they are "working."
post #18 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by skiingman
Take the AFD off, by removing the screw and lifting. Look at the cheesy-ass steel the heel track is made out of. Consider the implications of cutting a series of closely spaced slots in this already weakass piece of steel. Then consider what might happen to the whole shooting match when you apply serious torque on it by rotating a worm drive gear through those slots to drive the heel forward in relation to the track while a boot loads the forward pressure spring.

It ain't built for it. You very well may deform the track, making future adjustments difficult or impossible. Or it may just get sloppy, which will make your bindings release prematurely even more often than they do when they are "working."
I love when you talk rough!
post #19 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
I love when you talk rough!
Haha
post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by NE1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by f2racer
Quick question regarding the 2004 Atomic Race Bindings I have on my Atomic SL:11s. Had these mounted by the shop I bought them at, but due to the short length of my boot (284mm, I wear a 24.5 mondo boot), I can only adjust the bindings to the 2 rear-most locations (of the Varizone), I cannot adjust the bindings to the 2 forward locations because the rear of the binding cannot move any farther forward. Do others with small boots also have this issue, or did they mount the bindings wrong?
I have a 296 sole, and mine will only go one forward and two back. They cannot physically go any more forward as I recall, so I would guess that yours are mounted correctly, and the 284 sole is just one more increment of the same problem.

 

For both your boot problems, i had the exact same problem. my boots are at 294. and could only, go foward 1 and go two back. (from allround) the only reason it can't move back or forward enough is because of the break assembly not letting it go back. IN which case, you have to remount your bindings, by taking off the toe and heel piece, and drilling them into the plate where it corresponds to your boot size. i fiddled around with it, and with atomicman's help, i got it to fit my 294, and allow it to move all the way from extreme to speed. and everything inbetween.

 

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