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Mounting Bindings

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
I just got a pair of Atomic R10s with 412 bindings and need to have the bindings mounted. The trouble is, I live in Austin, Texas and I am not sure I will be able to find a decent tech to do it right. I know it is not too difficult, but if there is any chance of it getting screwed up, I'd rather have a good tech mount the bindings.

So, my question is, should I just take the skis to my local sporting goods store that also sells skis (Sun & Ski here in Austin, or maybe REI) or should I wait until I am in Steamboat in a couple of weeks and have them mounted there?

Also, I know there are different schools of thought on whether new skis need to be waxed. Anyone have any specific experience with the Atomics and whether I'll need to have 'em waxed before I go out the first time?

post #2 of 21
Mounting a binding is not very complex. I would take it to a local shop that sells your brand of bindings (so they have jigs), and be done with it.

post #3 of 21
Are they the bindings that just slide into a pre-mounted plate, or do they need to be drilled?
post #4 of 21

Mounting of the 412

That binding is very easy to mount on the ski, provided the "mounting plate" was already attached...which it should have been...when you got the skis. The holes are pre-drilled and you can look at your boot length and select the correct mounting position, both for the toe piece and the heel piece. All you really need is a (large) Phillips Screwdriver and a good healthy grip. Be sure the bindings are down flush with the very sure. After you have them should have them checked/set by a tech. Read the instructions too. You can do it!
post #5 of 21
The R10's should be just like my R11's and have the plate. I just put CR:412's on my R:11's and its not very hard to do. On the plate you should see mm ranges for boot sole lengths. Find the length of your boot, which is stamped on the boot, and use the appropriate sets of holes to screw the toe and heel pieces into. Its very simple to do. You will need either a screwdriver with a big handle so you have lots of leverage, or a T handle ratcheting deal. Those are the best. The screws go in the holes TIGHT, which is a good thing when you think about it . When you get done look at the toe and heel piece and make sure they are sitting all the way down flush on the plate.

I did mine myself mostly because I don't like incompetant people touching my stuff. If you go to the local sporting goods store you run the risk of having an idiot messing your stuff up.

post #6 of 21
A minor correction: you really want a #3 Pozidrive screwdriver, not a Phillips.

Other than that, they're very easy to mount. The instructions tell you how to fine-adjust the heel position, as well as the toe height (in theory that should come set correctly and shouldn't need adjustment, but sometimes it does).

Another binding-mounting-for-dummies note: if you have extreme difficulty getting the boot into the binding, make sure you've removed the little metal bracket the holds the brakes up.

I waxed my new Atomic skis before using them.
post #7 of 21

Little Metal Bracket

Could you expand on this? I don't recall seeing it. BUT when I mounted mine, one of the heel pieces had come apart in the box. When I put it together, one piece was missing. It was a little plate that fit between the fine adjustment screw and the spring. Since I purchased two sets of skis with bindings, I checked the other three individual bindings and they all had the "little piece". I dont know the name of the piece but the function is to allow the fine adjustment screw to actually put pressure on the spring. Anyway I got a new binding and all is well. Also, what do you recommend on the toe piece where you can either be Locked or Active. The instructions dont address this specifically, but they do generically.
post #8 of 21
The "little metal bracket" I referred to isn't part of the binding, it's just a brake-retraction device for shipping. You can use it when you work on your skis too. It comes with the race versions of the bindings ... I don't know about the "ride" ones. It fits at the front of the heel-rest and holds the metal cross-piece that's part of the brake mechanism forward, thus holding the brake arms up. It also stops the boot from going all the way down if you're foolish enough to try to put a boot into the binding with it in the way.

I've skied with my toepieces' upward release active. Don't think it ever released upwards. Lately, I've taken to setting it locked, at least for race training. I'll probably keep it active for ordinary skiing, when I'm not all that concerned it'll release inadvertently.
post #9 of 21
I'm curious to know. These plates on the R:10s that are pre-drilled and marked for boot sole lengths, do the holes need to be tapped before you drive the screws in with the PZ3 and is blue loctite recommended?
post #10 of 21
On tapping, you don't need to do that, although one could do it a make the job a little easier. I considered using the blue locktite and maybe it's a good idea, although I did not. The instructions don't specify it, at least that I saw. Once these screws are in, and the bindings are down flush on the plate, they are "there" although I surely will check them from time to time.
post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
OK, started to mount the bindings. I don't have a PZ3, so I had to use the closest-sized phillips head. I could get them nearly all the way, but decided to stop to avoid stripping the screw. I guess I'lll take them to the local shop and have them finish the mounting. You all were right when you said these suckers go in tight. At the end, I just couldn't keep enough downward force to keep the head in the screw.

I do have another question though... The brakes click twice when I insert the boot. Once to a half-way position and then on full engagement. Is that normal for the 412s?

Thanks for the help.
post #12 of 21
Sorry you ran into trouble...those screws do go in tight. Last night I went to the hardware store looking for a PZ3 and they didn't have one. I'm getting one somewhere for my kit. You'll probably feel better having the job finished professionally anyway. But if you find the PZ3 you'll have it and can finish the job yourself. You'll have a tool you may need later and save the cost of installation. I'm just rambling here. I dont mean to sound like the expert...I have only mounted two pair of these bindings, but I gained confidence along the way. The first one took me an hour or more...the other threee went much quicker and easier. And, like Bandit 2941 said, they dont like other folks messing with their stuff. On the double clicking, I haven't specifically noticed that; the boot just goes in and is solid. I'll check tonight though and let you know.
post #13 of 21
I did not notice a distinctive double clicking sound but I haven't heard yours so I don't know what to say. The boot should just set right into the binding. There is at least one big click. Maybe my hearing is not good enough to hear (on mine) what you are referring to as a ddouble click.
post #14 of 21

mouting instructions

Does anyone have or know where to get the Atomic binding mounting instructions?
post #15 of 21
If you'll send me a private message with your address, I'll copy mine and send them to you. If the riser plates are now on the skis, it's a simple operation and can be done by following the instructions in this thread. BUT, i have only the varizone instructions.
post #16 of 21
Atomic ships the mounting instructions with all new bindings. Visit an Atomic dealer and ask if you can take a copy from a boxed binding set. The retailers always throw the instructions out and rarely give them to the consumer.

The heel band retainer sometimes comes off in shipping. It is held in place by a plastic glide bushing (310 and 412 use a single piece which pops into holes on the bottom, 614 and 1018 use two pieces which wrap the sides of the heel housing). If the heel band becomes separated from the heel housing, the worm gear and forward pressure spring might fall out. To reinstall the forward pressure spring and the worm gear is a royal pain in the ass, but manageable with enough patience and cursing. Use a complete binidng as reference to see how it looks finished, but do not take the parts out. The band can be removed easily to view. When reinstalling the band, make certain that the grooves for the worm screw are up. The grooves are convex and must be up so that they engage the gear deep enough.

For liability, binding should be mounted by a certified shop. It isn't rocket science, especially with predrilled Atomic plates. The key is to have a #3 Pozi to prevent stripping of the screw head. A power driver with clutch is ideal because hand screwing is tough. There is no need for Loctite or white glue. To make handscrewing easier, a drop of dish soap into the holes will help lube the screws on the way in and will eventually wash out leaving a tight screw. The lifters of the R-10 and R-11 have 3 choices of holes for small <290, regular and large boots >330. Figure out which set you need and screw the plates on. Make sure all screws are tight and the plate is tight against the lifter. Ste the heel band onto the toe pin so that the forward edge of the band coresponds with the boot sole range closest to your boots within 10mm (309mm can use either 310 or 300, but 310 would be better). Screw the AFD snuggly onto the toe pin making sure no cross threading occurs. Set the boot into the toe piece, and udjust the forward pressure such that the heel of the boot just clears the heel cup to rest on the engagement tab. Once the forward pressure is close, press the boot all the way down in the binding. The forward pressure screw should be flush with the housing of the heel piece. If too deep, take boot out, and turn counterclockwise and test boot again. If too far out, turn clockwise and test boot again. Make all forward pressure adjustments with boot out of binding. Once forward pressure screw is flush with housing, take boot out and turn screw one click clockwise. Put boot back into binding and adjust toe height so a 0.5mm plastic card can just barely be forced between the boot sole and the AFD. Other than setting DIN, you should be ready to go.

There is some wax on the skis, so one day is fine, but consider waxing soon after.
post #17 of 21
thanks BetaRacer, I finally got around to mounting them, it was a breeze - I'm taking them out tomorrow to try them.
post #18 of 21
On racing skis, I usually hot scrape until no dirt is left in the wax (from the building process) and then prep them for speed use: two runs/waxing; done 7-8 times. For ordinary skis, where hundreths of a second aren't critical, I just hot scrape them a couple of times and wax them.

You can also ski them right out the box, but the wax they put at the factory is usually crap, so a good wax might heigthen the experience of popping the ski cherry. Waxing is like foreplay, most people don't do it and they end up with a partner that is dry and harsh
post #19 of 21
If your having trouble finding a #3 Pozi locally, you can order one direct from here. The 31320 is the industry standard.

post #20 of 21
For what its worth, we bought a pair of M9's and C9's at a ski shop at Loon and they waxed them after mounting the bindings.
post #21 of 21
Betaracer, I bought new ('06) Metron B5's on Ebay last week, mounted the bindings (Neox 412) myself, and skied them yesterday for the first time...loved them! I had never mounted bindings before, but I read the instructions carefully and it seemed pretty starightforward. Two questions: I did not use Locktite on the mounting screws because the written instructions that came with the bindings did not call for it. Should I remount the bindings using Locktite, or is it not needed because the holes were pre-drilled? In the past, whenever I've had bindings mounted at a shop, I beleive they've always used Locktite or something similar. The skis are 172's, and I'm an advanced skier (but not expert), 6'2", 250 lbs. Is 8 the correct DIN setting for me? I skied the new skis pretty hard yesterday and had no problem with the bindings releasing prematurely, but it was all groomed trails and no bumps. Thanks for your help.
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