Atomic ships the mounting instructions with all new bindings. Visit an Atomic dealer and ask if you can take a copy from a boxed binding set. The retailers always throw the instructions out and rarely give them to the consumer.
The heel band retainer sometimes comes off in shipping. It is held in place by a plastic glide bushing (310 and 412 use a single piece which pops into holes on the bottom, 614 and 1018 use two pieces which wrap the sides of the heel housing). If the heel band becomes separated from the heel housing, the worm gear and forward pressure spring might fall out. To reinstall the forward pressure spring and the worm gear is a royal pain in the ass, but manageable with enough patience and cursing. Use a complete binidng as reference to see how it looks finished, but do not take the parts out. The band can be removed easily to view. When reinstalling the band, make certain that the grooves for the worm screw are up. The grooves are convex and must be up so that they engage the gear deep enough.
For liability, binding should be mounted by a certified shop. It isn't rocket science, especially with predrilled Atomic plates. The key is to have a #3 Pozi to prevent stripping of the screw head. A power driver with clutch is ideal because hand screwing is tough. There is no need for Loctite or white glue. To make handscrewing easier, a drop of dish soap into the holes will help lube the screws on the way in and will eventually wash out leaving a tight screw. The lifters of the R-10 and R-11 have 3 choices of holes for small <290, regular and large boots >330. Figure out which set you need and screw the plates on. Make sure all screws are tight and the plate is tight against the lifter. Ste the heel band onto the toe pin so that the forward edge of the band coresponds with the boot sole range closest to your boots within 10mm (309mm can use either 310 or 300, but 310 would be better). Screw the AFD snuggly onto the toe pin making sure no cross threading occurs. Set the boot into the toe piece, and udjust the forward pressure such that the heel of the boot just clears the heel cup to rest on the engagement tab. Once the forward pressure is close, press the boot all the way down in the binding. The forward pressure screw should be flush with the housing of the heel piece. If too deep, take boot out, and turn counterclockwise and test boot again. If too far out, turn clockwise and test boot again. Make all forward pressure adjustments with boot out of binding. Once forward pressure screw is flush with housing, take boot out and turn screw one click clockwise. Put boot back into binding and adjust toe height so a 0.5mm plastic card can just barely be forced between the boot sole and the AFD. Other than setting DIN, you should be ready to go.
There is some wax on the skis, so one day is fine, but consider waxing soon after.