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bindings position - Pierre

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Pierre (or anyone else who wishes to give an opinion), in response to this question in an earlier thread :
What is a good method to best determine binding position? Any non-subjective way to do it?
You said:
Book the skis bottom to bottom and slide a piece of paper in from each end. Measure the distance between the sheets along the ski and divide this by 2, Mark the ski in the middle of the running surface.

If you have little ankle range of motion mount the bindings so that this line is where the arch of you're foot just starts behind the ball of you're foot. My guess would be for each 5 degrees of ankle flexion move the binding to the rear by one cm. That would be a good starting point. Most bindings today have some fore and aft adjustments on the toe and heel pieces. Keep in mind, these are my opinions.

Measure ankle range of motion by sitting in a chair with you're feet flat on the floor. Have the femurs and the tibias at right angles to each other. 90 degrees to each other and the floor. Next lift you're toes as high as they will go with you're heels still on the floor. Measure the angle between the floor and the bottom of you're foot with a dial protractor. Less than 5 degrees is concrete ankles. less than 12 degrees is low range, Normal range is 12 to 24 and over 24 is noodle ankles. Most boots are 6 to 12 degrees forward lean.
Hope I don't come across as too dense , but could you please clarify exactly where these pieces of paper are supposed to be in relationship to the skis - not just anywhere between the skis I know. And presumably they should be the same size of paper in the same orientation? And where is the running surface you refer to in relationship to these two pieces of paper? Thanks.
post #2 of 4
Ella, I am pretty sure I know what Pierre means, so I"ll offer my guess and hope that he comes in later to correct anything that I might get wrong.

the process would be easiest if you can lay the skis across a pair of chairs at even heights. pair them up by touching their bases together. if you have some strong elastic bands, or long zip-ties, you should use them to hold your bindings' brakes up and out of the way, similar to what you'd do to file or wax your skis. the skis should be free to rest against each other in this "mirror image" fashion, separated only by their inherent camber.

stand (or kneel, or sit, whatever, depending on your height & the chair height) at either the tip end or the tail end. take the piece of paper and hold it widthwise (landscape) orientation. slide the piece of paper between the tips (or tails if you're at that end) keeping it in landscape orientation.

as you gently slide it forward, you will notice that it "catches" at a point where the two skis' bases are in contact. this is the "running length" reference point for whichever end you're on -- tip or tail.

now to the other end of the pair of skis... and repeat the process.

when you're done you should have two pieces of paper that are oriented perpendicular to the skis' running surface and edges, in a landscape orientation. the two edges of paper indicate the "running length" of the ski.

that's what Pierre is dividing in half.
post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 
Thanks, gonz. As an intellectual exercise, I tried this with my newly mounted (women's) skis that I just picked up from the shop. The bindings were mounted in the position recommended by the manufacturer. Lo and behold, the officially recommended position and the Pierre position are remarkably close, almost identical, given a cm +/- or so for various errors of measurement. At least this is the case if I use the angle of actual ankle dorsiflexion I have, rather than the average boot forward lean.

This is somehow reassuring.
post #4 of 4
It all sounds good to me.
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