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post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Back surfing again.... of course it was 30C yesterday & fine & sunny all day today (about 25C I think) but exactly 30minutes before my surfing lesson it started to pelt down rain & the wind came up....

Wandering around in 22C water but about 18C air & wondering what it is about sports that i am attracted to that keeps leaving me doing silly things in pouring rain (sliding on frozen water - or riding water that is moving) .....

What is it that attracts us to such weird ideas of "leisure activity"?

BTW - I had a ball!
post #2 of 6
I Love skiing, But I don't think I have done anything that compairs to surfing. Like skiing, surfing isn't easy it takes years to really get good. I takes a lot of time in the water to have the judgment and get the timing down. There is just something about tapping into all this energy that is around us. The movement of energy thru water or playing with gravity and snow. Not only do we play with all this energy. In both sports we challage Nature and ourselfs. We find something deeper in who we are. There is the risk the adrenaline rush pushing your limits and faith in your own powers. Your ability to take on these elements. For the ancient Hawaiians Surfing and religion were tied together. They saw Surfing as more then a sport it was also a spirtiual act. The same can be said for the ancient Norsk people. Skiing and winter were part of the believes, more then sport or tranportation. It had a deeper meaning. A young surfer who was dying from cancer. He would have Cemo theropy in the morning be sick and feeling weak, yet he would still get out and surf Pipeline. Before chris lost his battel with cancer. He once said this in a surfing magazine "Life thru surfing surfing thue life." The same can be sid for skiing. Thats why you get out on cold rainy morning to surf and why you fight wind and whiteouts to ski.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Yeah - I have already been told I will not make the gains in surfing that I made in skiing..... Unlike skiing the surface keeps changing in surfing - makes it much more of a challenge.... The thing is it is even MORE addictive than skiing(is that possible?)

But it was a cold rainy night :

I think I stood on a stingray as I could feel a rough thing under my foot - luckily he did not mind me standing on him... last time I did this night thing I stood on a flounder or something else slimy &it wriggled & gave me a huge fright.... also managed to paddle through a blue bottles tentacles last time...
post #4 of 6
Like I said The rush of catching and riding a good wave really gets you pumped. Surfing is very addicting I have 30+ years in the water.
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
today it was very flat & there was a heap of seaweed in the only decent place to surf (or try to) .... we were using mouth of a creek - so there was a bit of a sand bank... but that meant the resulting small rip had collected all the weed that was slowly rotting (blah)...

Oh well - small waves encourage me to get up FAST - which i need to practice & weed gives incentive to stay upright.....

I am getting better at my easy turn side... but I have too much time not surfing lose the upper body strength I need for the jump up... so I end up with front foot too far back & have to fudge it & move it forward....
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Utah49
Like I said The rush of catching and riding a good wave really gets you pumped. Surfing is very addicting I have 30+ years in the water.
30 years : you are as bad as Man from Oz.....

I wish I had learnt to surf years ago.... now I am old & it is hard to learn....
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