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Fischer Edge Tuning

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Anyone know what the factory base and side bevel angles are for the 04 Fisher RC4 GS?

Rusty maybe?

/edit: title change...

[ November 03, 2003, 01:46 PM: Message edited by: Proneax ]
post #2 of 14
Interesting question. I'm curious to know the answer also. Fischer for years shipped all their skis with 1 degree base and 3 degrees side bevel.

I believe the standard bevel on their GS race skis is now.5 base and 2.5 side edge. With their Sceneo line last season I believe they were shipped with .75 base and 3 degree side bevel.

If Rusty Guy doesn't already know the factory bevels for Fischer's GS race skis I'm sure that he can find out. One thing that I do know for certain is you can not generally assume the ski tech at your shop knows the manufacturers standard bevels or if he does that he will follow them.
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
From the website:
Fischer skis come from the factory with the appropriate base (0.5-1.0) and side (2.5-3.0) bevels...
So it doesn't say exactly.

While we're on the subject of edge tuning, the edges on my RC4s are pretty thin, which is good speed wise, but then again could be a bad thing if they get too thin from tuning.

My instinct is to stay away from filing the edges as much as possible and just use a diamond stone to keep them sharp, but I haven't used a diamond stone much and I'm not sure exatly how it will work.

I have a black DMT stone, which is medium in coarseness. Can anyone give me tips on how I can keep these sharp and not worry about the edges getting too thin?
post #4 of 14
I've been using a DMT diamond stone on my Sceneos to clean up the edges without removing much metal. I usually use the blue stone unless there are some major burrs. I use the stone freehand and try to follow the existing bevel as accurately as possible. Unlike a normal file, instead of pulling it in only one direction, I go back and forth in a tip to tail direction with overlapping strokes. The black stone does not remove the edge material too quickly, and a blue DMT is finer and removes less. When you're not using a file guide you have to be careful not to accidently dull the edge, but you shouldn't have to worry about taking to much off unless you really are over zealous. The steel edges on Fischers are harder than I was used to with other brands, and mine have never needed much work.

The bevel angles are supposed to be 0.7 degrees base and 2.75 degrees side according to factory specs, but there may be some slight variation from this in the manufacturing process. If you use a file guide, 1 deg base and 3 deg side is close enough that you probably won't notice a difference.

post #5 of 14
Why do skis from different manufacturers with ostensibly similar designs (or at least designs for the same conditions, e.g., GS or midfat or fat, etc) have radically different factory bevel specs? I would think that a ski with a 1 degree base and 1 degree edge bevel (factory recommendations for Salomon, Rossi, Volant, according to the Tognar website) would ski radically different than a ski with a 1 degree base and 3 degree edge bevel (Atomic). Furthermore, the bevel recommendations appear, at least what I have been able to find, to go across the board- for all skis in their line, not specific to a particular design. I realize that top flight racers, or free skiers, or big mountain skiers may modify these bevel recommendations radically for their own purposes, but where do the manufacturer recomendations come from?

[ November 03, 2003, 07:05 PM: Message edited by: dp ]
post #6 of 14
I believe you will want to PM Rusty Guy. I think he has something to do with Fischer.
post #7 of 14
Rusty Guy is a local rep for Fischer in Colorado and a level 3 cert instructor at Eldora. If you do PM Rusty Guy, please ask him to publicly post the answer here. Thanks.
post #8 of 14

Regarding the use of the DMT diamond file, I forgot to mention that they work best if you lubricate the file with water while you are using it. Just dip it in a cup of water once in a while to keep it wet while you are working.

post #9 of 14
Hi Guys--Rusty may jump in here and correct me, but I believe that Fischer's race skis currently come from the factory with .7 degree base edge bevel, 2.75 degree side edge bevel.

These precise bevels are pretty difficult to duplicate with most home equipment, and few shops have equipment adjustable to 1/100ths of a degree. But really, the optimal bevel is a matter of personal preference, as well as the conditions of the moment. Don't be TOO concerned about trying to duplicate a factory tune, or tuning according to manufacturers' recommendations.

In general, if you want your skis to hold better on ice and hard snow, increase the side-edge bevel. If you want the skis to be more forgiving of error (but less grippy), increase the base-edge bevel. Also, remember that large bevels require removing a fair amount of the steel on the edges, potentially reducing the ski's life. And large side-edge bevels are more fragile, more prone to damage from rocks, and require re-sharpening more often.

Fischers come extremely well-tuned, and unlike many manufacturers, the bevels on their high-end skis and race skis(.7/2.75) are not conservative. The large side-bevel helps the ski hold tenaciously, and the minimal base-edge bevel makes it fairly unforgiving. It's a tune for someone who likes to be on edge. Do a lot of flat-ski slipping and sliding, and you're likely to catch an edge. Yes, you can go even less on the base and more on the side, if you want to, but most manufacturers typically tune their skis for a more forgiving, more easily-skidded ride.


Best regards,
Bob Barnes
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone for some good info.

Bob- .7 and 2.75 are also what TimL said above, and that sounds right for these skis.

My tuning equipmnet goes in half degree intervals so I'll end up on 1 and 3 or maybe .5 and 2.5 if I like that lower base angle, i'll have to see which I prefer. It's always nice to know what the original specs are tho. And believe me, these are going to be on edge as much as possible [img]smile.gif[/img]

I have to agree that the Fischers come with a nice tune, good structure and the edges are very flat with the base, although the stone they used did extend the 'structure' a little onto the edges... shouldn't be a problem.

Rusty Guy should be in here soon - if not I'll PM him.
post #11 of 14
I don't know how good the Fischer factory tunes are, but when first side filing Volkl G3s, I had to add a 1/2 degree shim (on top of the 2 degree tool) to make a close angle to the factory tune. Which was supposed to be 1 and 2.
I imagine that 1 and 3 will be plenty good, especially for the East.
post #12 of 14
0.7 and 2.75 are correct.

I'm just a pro rep and I want to welcome Bob Barnes and JimL to the fold as well.

TJ Larson the THE Fischer rep and he has actually registered here and makes an occasional post

I try to leave the bases and sides alone as much as possible. I stone or beburr daily and leave it at that.

One thing I have found is that the skis do very well right out of the wrapper.

[ November 04, 2003, 08:53 PM: Message edited by: Rusty Guy ]
post #13 of 14
Rusty Guy Jim L and Bob Barnes,
Thanks for posting the correct information for the curious like me. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ November 04, 2003, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: Lostboy ]
post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 
Yes, thanks guys!!
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