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Waxing Explained Simply

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
OK i just bought my first pair of skis. K2 Public Enemys and i want a simple answer what do i have to do to prepair them. i have a rub on wax, is that O.K or should I get a shop to ' Hot wax them'
How would i know if they ned wax (explained simply)
is rub on wax o.k or should they be done by a shop
anything else i should know in simple noob terms:
post #2 of 28
Hot wax them yourself.

There are a number of threads on this forum with full explanation.

How would i know if they ned wax
Just wax them. Some people do it every day they're used (or even more). If you just do it every once in a while, when you get the chance, it'll still be better than never doing it.
post #3 of 28

Check out the waxing tips.

I think the PEs bases are a little harder to resist park damage so I am not sure how well they absorb wax. Just don't burn the bases because then they will not absorb wax.

If you don't want to hotwax check out something like Ray's Way. It's quick, easy, and you can't burn your bases.
post #4 of 28
Thread Starter 
OK i see replys already. when I posted I was short on time so Ill explain more now.
i want to know if it is necissary to wax my skis (probly yes but...)
then i want to know how i should do it. i have this wax that comes in a block, you rub some on from the stick then you rub-buff that with this patch that looks like foam. is this ok- would it be better to take them into a shop and have them wax them (i don't really want to do somthing like hotwaxing myself, as it sounds kind of intensive)
Also does k2 do a good factory waxing, or is it just a quick job.
I did search, and read the fourm preparing new skis for use and most of it kind of flew right over my head. I am not really trying to tune them i just want to wax them properly so they last, and perform well.
Thanks for your patiance and excuse my spelling
post #5 of 28
Check out my photo guide:

There is a link in that thread....the TGR site is down for the day but should be back on tomorrow (tuesday) so you can check it out then. I tried to make it as simle as can skip over the edge section if you want and just stick to the waxing stuff.

This board is a great resource, so if you have any specific questions once you get started many here will be glad to help you out!
post #6 of 28
No ski factory does a good job of waxing. The factory wax is applied is essentially for cosmetic reasons. You can ski with the factory wax but it will be gone after a run or two.

IMHO, you should do it yourself rather than spending $ at a shop if you plan to ski regularly. Plus, if the shop uses a hot wax roller, that wax job won't last long either.

You will need an iron and a few bars of wax for different conditions. It's better than just rubbing wax on. Waxing is mindless and its fun. Wax on Wax off.

There are a lot of posts here on waxing just check the search button. Both Toko and Swix also sell wax tuning manuals for something like $2.95. Of course, you don't need to wax at all but the bases will become abraided, compromising the skis's performance.:
post #7 of 28
I've been waxing my ski's for quite a while and it isn't complicated at all.Very easy and cost effective plus you can keep your bases in a good state yourself.I usually hot wax mine every 2 days on the hill. Check the sites mentioned and read up,it'll be worth it.
post #8 of 28
Thread Starter 
Dipstick very nice pictoral guide. It has helped alot putting the words that I have been reading into a picture. the only part i am not getting is the whole preperation required- brushing part. i am seeing that oncei have the required things, this might not be too difficult.
What do you need like brushes, p-tex brushes, and where can I get them.
Wouldn't a brass brush scratch the stuff out of your base.
Also what would be a good all around wax that is easy to apply? I live in the midwest.
post #9 of 28
Befor eyou ski any new ski, its a good idea to give it a few waxing just to make sure the base is good and protected- nothing bums me out like a big gouge in the bases of week-old skis. A good shop should be able to prep them for you if you ask them, which will get a nice tune on the edges and a pretty solid wax job on them. If you're going to wax yourself, go for the Swix CH series- I've used CH7 as my all-around wax for the last few years now; you dont need anythign else unless you plan to race. You'll need to buy an iron and at least a stiff nylon brush to buff the base, but it'll pay for itself in less than a season once your only waxing expense is a $20 brick of wax once or twice a season.
post #10 of 28
Originally Posted by Yukon
Wouldn't a brass brush scratch the stuff out of your base.
Yes, that is the point. After you have scraped off all the surface wax with the scraper, the brush is used to clean the wax out of the tiny grooves (the stucture), thereby reducing suction on the base of the ski from the snow/water surface.

Use a brass brush to clean out the harder waxes (Swix CH7 or CH6 and harder), and use a nylon brush to clean out the softer waxes.
post #11 of 28
Thread Starter 

Whats the worst that could happen?

Well, I have decided to do it myself. thanks for all your advice, and good places to find guides, and specially dipstick for the great pictoral guide .

My last questions are:

I have decided to use swix ch7 wax, how hot should th iron be, and how slow-fast should each pass be?

Does anyone know a place I could get a cheap wax kit with a brass brush scrapers, and anything else i might need? i don't need one with an iron though. Or should I just buy all the basics seperatly, and what will i need for basic waxing?

and when im finished waht sould the bases look like? shiney or dull or in the middle?
Thanks for helping me:
post #12 of 28
Swix gives the proper iron temp on the wax container.

What kind of iron will you use? I know people say to use any old iron but for a newbie I would get a cheap $20-30 ski specific iron.

Here is a link to my favorate sites for ski tuning
post #13 of 28
I have similar questions. Scenario: Brand new Volkls, shop where purchased said did not need waxing. I have been following this forum where many have said, "Wax, Wax, & Wax" I purchased the liquid form of Swix CF4 that goes on like shoe polish. Is this stuff any good? or will I (my bases) pay for the going the easy way out?: BTW mostly ski East Coast with occaisional forays out west.

Thanks in advance

post #14 of 28
Doug, you should really hot wax.

For me, rub-on CF4 is almost worse than Zardoz as it doesn't go as fast and lasts about as long (2 runs?). If you really don't want to iron, try CH6 (blue) with an artifiicial cork.

PS. If we're skiing the same hill this season, I will _give_ you all my old hot-melt CF4.
post #15 of 28
Thanks Comprex, That is exactly the experienced advice I was looking for. I guess since I paid a small fortune for my new skis (Volkl 5*) I ought to get off my butt and learn how to take care of their bases properly. Ironing though, makes me nervous for some reason. I'm trying to learn more through these forums however.

Anyway thanks again.

post #16 of 28
Don't mean to be rude but the people I know who have PE's/comparable don't give a shit about their bases unless it is really serious damage. All they need is to get to the park, then they slide rails and do jumps all day long - not exactly sharp edges/waxed bases conditions! Do you use these as everyday skis?
post #17 of 28
i use parowax, an old iron, and some bg chemical stuff...its pretty easy...rub the oldwax off, put the wax on the base, put the iron on the wax, let it melt in overnight, next day scrap it off..vola!!skis waxed
post #18 of 28
Thread Starter 
Brit well.... I will be using these skis as my only pair of skis this year, and they will need to last for a while before I will be ready to get a new pair. I won't use them as a park only ski, and will use them in a 60 all, 40 park ski. So I also won't be abusing them on rails or rock.
post #19 of 28
Thread Starter 
DunDun wouldnt this burn the crap out of your bases? and do u do only on section at a time or do u have a huge iron?
post #20 of 28
Uh, I don't think DunDunDun meant to leave the iron on the base all night. Just the wax.
post #21 of 28
Fair enough! From what my flat-mate says (who owns them in 169) they are good in the pow, great in the park but mediocre on anything approaching hard-pack - just too soft, apparently. I suppose if you keep the edges sharp and the bases waxed they will be much better than his abused and blunt-edged ones... Enjoy!

PS They look wicked - especially this season's ones
post #22 of 28
Thread Starter 
so i have gotten the waxing stuff, and have applied it once, scraped, and brushed.
but i have on final question about the brushing. how are you supposed to do it with the brass brush? do you press hard, and only do a few passes , or lightly with many passes?
and also are all brass brushes the same, or are ones made for skiing different?
post #23 of 28

"Wax on, wax off"


There are many methods of waxing but here a few general rules that many quality waxing processes share

Bevel base edges, then sidwalls, then wax

Apply hard waxes first (i.e. low temp) in succesive layers when applying the first quality wax (no this doesn't happen in most shops) DIY

Two methods: WOTD (wax of the day) or Universal (all temps)

WOTD factors various physical qualities of snow w/ ambient temp, humidity etc. This is for wax junkies, racers or anyone else that wants to maximize their gear

Universals work fine for most folks

Rub on is better than no wax at all, however it doesn't last long and is only a 'topcoat'

Don't fry the wax - or more importantly your bases, test your iron and know how hot it gets and fluctuates, test by pressing a small piece of wax on the nose of the iron while it is upright if it smokes then its too hot, turn it back a notch, wait 5 min and test again. Its best to have a reliable iron, otherwise you waste wax and possibly ruin your bases

Wax, scrape but don't dig (I use a plastic ice scraper for the car), polish (lite scotchbrite, cork, bristle brush, fine nylon brush)

The Tognar Toolworks site is really good for supplies and info!

post #24 of 28
Originally Posted by Yukon
so i have gotten the waxing stuff, and have applied it once, scraped, and brushed.
but i have on final question about the brushing. how are you supposed to do it with the brass brush? do you press hard, and only do a few passes , or lightly with many passes?
and also are all brass brushes the same, or are ones made for skiing different?
I start with the brass brush only for harder waxes, say CH6 and lower. Otherwise, I skip the brass, and start with the nylon and progress to horsehair. I press fairly hard, using the brass and nylon only in the tip-to-tail direction, then horsehair in both directions.

Brass (and nylon brushes as well) come in many varieties. You can use a brass brush manufactured for other than skiing applications once you know what to look for, but in your case, I would recommend a regular (standard) ski brass brush for now.
post #25 of 28
Thread Starter 
^ Im using CH7 wopuld that be a horse hair or a brass brush application? somone said brass
and still how are you supposed to do it with the brass brush? do you press hard, and only do a few passes , or lightly with many passes?
post #26 of 28
Brass is OK with CH7 - or not - just means a few more passes with nylon. Remember that the objective is to clean the wax out of the structure grooves, whatever the tool, so use as many passes as the tool requires.

I press quite firmly with all brushes - to the point the ski tip flexes considerably when supported with a stand a foot in from the tip.

I think you are trying to analyze this too much - just remember what the objective is, and use whatever works to achieve that. I suspect we all do our own "routine" a little differently. Think art rather than science...
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
^ this is what i was looking for but iot raises anothr Q how will i know that the wax is scraped out, or that the bases are absorbing it in the first place?
post #28 of 28
Hot wax with the proper temperature for your wax (not so hot that there is any smoke, but warm enough to melt it when you run the iron down the length ski in about 10-15 seconds for 5 passes). Let it cool (at least an hour) and the base will soak up about as much as it can for one hot wax cycle. Scape judiciuosly so that only a VERY thin film that will not scrape off is left, then brush the wax out of the structure grooves.

Brush until you can see the same size and depth structure grooves you see when the ski is unwaxed.
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