"Wax on, wax off"Hey
There are many methods of waxing but here a few general rules that many quality waxing processes share
Bevel base edges, then sidwalls, then wax
Apply hard waxes first (i.e. low temp) in succesive layers when applying the first quality wax (no this doesn't happen in most shops) DIY
Two methods: WOTD (wax of the day) or Universal (all temps)
WOTD factors various physical qualities of snow w/ ambient temp, humidity etc. This is for wax junkies, racers or anyone else that wants to maximize their gear
Universals work fine for most folks
Rub on is better than no wax at all, however it doesn't last long and is only a 'topcoat'
Don't fry the wax - or more importantly your bases, test your iron and know how hot it gets and fluctuates, test by pressing a small piece of wax on the nose of the iron while it is upright if it smokes then its too hot, turn it back a notch, wait 5 min and test again. Its best to have a reliable iron, otherwise you waste wax and possibly ruin your bases
Wax, scrape but don't dig (I use a plastic ice scraper for the car), polish (lite scotchbrite, cork, bristle brush, fine nylon brush)
The Tognar Toolworks site is really good for supplies and info!