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Atomic SL9/11 binding Q

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Is it possible to fit for instance Tyrolia bindings on the new Atomic SL9/11 skiis insted of Atomics own bindings? I have recieved contradicting information about this issue. I need an extra 10mm raise underneath the bindings.
post #2 of 18
First question is why do you need extra raise under the binding ?

IMO I don't think you can add a raiser to Atomic bindings. They make take ski to conform to FIS rules.
post #3 of 18
Thread Starter 
Im not gonna participate in any races and I like the extra raise under my boots. Just got confirmed by a local shop that you can put other bindings on but the skiis are sold in "combo" format so you get the binding delivered with them in any case. I wonder if slamming a pair of Tyrolia LD12's on them will ruin somehow the wholes made for the Atomic bindings.

Its quite strange but I am one of a few skiier on the planet for whom normal raise is not enough. It gives me so much mor gripp and prevents boot-out. This is one reason why I havent bought previously skiis by Atomic.
post #4 of 18
NO, the plate is designed and predrilled for Atomic bindings. You have 2 problems,

#1 Holes on the alternative binding may be too close to predrilled holes.

#2 The placement of the alternative binding may line up on a place that is not properly reinforced for mounting.

You could use an CR 6.14 which is 4mm (20 mm total instead of 16mm) higher than a R 6.14. Also Atomic has 3-4mm distance plates avaliable or anyone can have a shop make you a distance plate.
post #5 of 18
I have Tyrolia D8 FF+ mounted on Atomic SL9 without any problems. Six days I was happy with Race 614 bindings, and than I had prerelease. That happened to me for a first time since 1978. I was using Tyrolias all those years. Atomic bindings do not tolerate any! snow under the heel.
post #6 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by stekan
I have Tyrolia D8 FF+ mounted on Atomic SL9 without any problems. Six days I was happy with Race 614 bindings, and than I had prerelease. That happened to me for a first time since 1978. I was using Tyrolias all those years. Atomic bindings do not tolerate any! snow under the heel.
What binding does, your not supposewd to have snow under your heel!
post #7 of 18
A few thoughts:

If it's a matter of adding lift, it seems to me it would be easier to add lift to an Atomic binding on the Atomic plate, than it would be to use a different binding. Also, as noted, if you use a non-racing Atomic binding on an Atomic plate, you're pretty high to start with: over the FIS limit, anyway.

The skis are not sold in "combo" format. There are lots of places you can buy the ski and not buy the binding (or vice versa). If the shop you talked to only sells the ski and binding as a unit, that's up to them.
post #8 of 18
Thread Starter 
sjjohnston - Intersport shops here in Finland sell the skiis including bindings. If I want only the skiis I have to pay the same ammount at an other store and I dont get any bindings.

Atomicman - can you tell me a bit more about those rising plates. Could I make some myselfe? What material should they be made of? I need a 10mm lift above FIS limit. I had the Tyrolia LD12 all last year on my Head SL and they were a blast.
post #9 of 18
tdk6, what is it youre looking for? Are you looking to raise a Salomon binding higher? It can be done. Let me know exactly what youre looking to do and ill direct you to a few different options.
Later
GREG
post #10 of 18
I have made a lot of spacers over the years using Ultra High Molecular Weight Plastics (UHMW). Find a plastics manufacturer and ask them if you can get some pieces from their remnant bin. Shaping the lifter is not difficult for some who has the right toolds and a little bit of mechanical skills. You will then probably need some longer screws and any ski shop or Tognar can get them for you.
post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
HeluvaSkier - FIS rules are 55mm between bottom of ski and bottom of boot sole. New bindings are neox 614 and 412 and they are the same height. I need to go as high as 62mm if possible.

Anyway, the SL11 and the GS11 are not FIS legal so an additional raise under the binding will not rule out competing, the turn radius alredy did that.
post #12 of 18
Raising an Atomic Race binding +10 mm ist the simplest thing in the world.
You take some plastic plate (such as used in the kitchen), cut the front and rear lifters, get longer screws (20 mm) that go through the plastic.

To use a different binding get some sort of high-density (harder) plastic and cut the two lifter as described above. You screw those lifters into the holes of the Atomic plate. The bindings will be mounted with its original screws into the lifters. It´s only a bit more complicated.
The only problem might be the conflict of some plate-fixing screws with those of the binding.

Since there are 20 or 24 mm between the front and rear positions of most Tyrolia heel units (at least in the Free Flex models, I´m not sure with LD 12) you always can use this shift to find a mounting position not colliding with the plates´screws.
post #13 of 18
Find an ESS superflex plate if you can. It will screw into the demo binging holes on the ski's plate. The Atomic bindings will then go into other the holes on the flexplate. ESS was bought by Atomic and the hole patterns remain the same.

Or follow Checkracer's excellent advice.
post #14 of 18
Find some 1/4inch Polycarbonate plexiglass. Polycarbonate (lexan) is better beacuse it doesnt shatter, and is slightly softer to dampen out vibrations - a plastic cutting board will also do the trick. Cut it to the shape of the binding, leaving about a 2 - 3 cm gap between the toe area and the heel area. This will allow you to maintain your freeflex that Atomic bindings have. You will also need longer screws. When you drill the plastic, drill it slightly larger than you need, so if the holes are off slightly it wont matter, and so that the screws do not thread into the added lifter. Mount the binding with the spacer to a ski using longer screws - usually 20mm to 25mm. This should put you up around 60mm.

If you want to lift higher than that, you should look into getting your boot lifted. Most boot fitters have the ability to do it very easily. This will allow that any ski you step into will give you the stand height youre looking for. Make sure that the fitter can put your boots back to DIN standards, and is aware that youre planning on lifting the OUTSIDE of the boot, and not the footbed - which in the past has been a common misconception among boot fitters who are not 100% familiar with the process.

Later

GREG
post #15 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for excellent advise
post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdk6
sjjohnston - Intersport shops here in Finland sell the skiis including bindings. If I want only the skiis I have to pay the same ammount at an other store and I dont get any bindings.

Atomicman - can you tell me a bit more about those rising plates. Could I make some myselfe? What material should they be made of? I need a 10mm lift above FIS limit. I had the Tyrolia LD12 all last year on my Head SL and they were a blast.
The distance plates Atomic makes are two separate pieces that only go under the area of the toe piece and heel piece. If you use a 3-4mm rise, the screw supplied by Atomic are 16mm, I would go no longer. If you use an Xentrix binding which is an additional 4mm higher than the Race 6.14 use a 20mm screw, no longer. I would also make the distance plates in two pieces like the Atomic supplied one. There is to much going on with the connection band between the toe and heel and the screw that holds the AFD plate in, to put the plate the full length of the entire binding. This also assures you freeflex of the binding as designed.

The plates Atomic supplies which I am sure any shop that carries Atomic can order for you from Atomic cost about $10 with the screws. They are black & looks like some kind of ABS plastic. My Marker Comp 14.0 EPS that I mounted on the World Cup Piston plate came with very similar plates, I used 2 of each in that case since the WC piston plate & 14.0 EPS is so low.

One additional advantage to using a 2 piece plate is you can adjust your binding ramp angle. You could just raise your toe by 3mm to essentially flatten your stance (The SL11 & GS11 with the stock chassis have about 4mm of ramp built in). You could just raise your heel or if you used 24mm screws you could raise your toe 6mm and your heel 4mm to give you -3mm ramp, this works well for some people, although I am not one of them. Lots of flexibility with a two piece setup.

The GS11m and the Speed skis with the Atomic World cup plate have -0- ramp angle, flat.

For $10.00 or if your shop charges you $20.00 I'd order them with the screws & make it easy!
post #17 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks Atomicman. I still havent gotten any good enough deal on the SL9's. BTW, Im very tall, 6 foot 2, should I try to get it in the length of 170 or go for a SL11 in the length of 165? Im not racing, just racing.
post #18 of 18
I prefer the SL11 over the SL9 a 165 makes a fun ski you can ski all over the groomed part of the mountain with, but you won't like it in pow or crud, the waist is too narrow on both of them!
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