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How strong is the plastic shell of the modern ski boots?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
I have finally found one boot fitter and with his help my new boots (Nordica "the beast") fit great.

After fitting my feet he wanted to make new rearward ratchet positions (so that my buckles could tighten even stronger). Unfortunately he drilled the holes on both boots unsymmetricly, with 5 mm difference. The left-boot upper buckles now are a little far to reach and I thought I could enlarge the holes on my left shell (to an ellipse) to be able to position(screw) the buckles there symmetrically to the right boot.

Is the plastic material of the boot-shell strong enough to endure "a little more holes" and channels (also needed by the ratchets) or with that I can compromise the strength of the plastic area where the buckles are positioned?

Many thanks!
post #2 of 9

Shoot your boot fitter

Um, if your boot fitter is a credible boot fitter, he will give you new boots based on an unsatisfactory fitting. After you have boot work done - especially grinding and cutting of any sort you should not ever have to touch the boot on your own. If a mistake is made the boot should be replaced or it should be corrected by the fitter. If they refuse, demand the money for the boots and take your business else where. If a boot fitter drilled in correct holes in any of my boots he would have a seriously pissed off customer on his hands.

As far as the strength of the plastic goes... it depends on the boot. I have a pair of Dobermans that i dont think i could destroy, but i skied in Salomon Course boots for three seasons a few years back and they were retired due to the cuff of the boot splitting between the second and third buckles. I didnt think that the plastic was very strong - i shouldnt be able to do that to a boot that is that stiff (i only weigh 155 lbs and am 5'7"). I found the beast to be pretty soft in the store when i had it on. It may become slightly brittle in the cold (or may not), but i would avoid putting any extra holes in it. If you realy need 5mm or so less in the upper cuff, you should look to a lower volume boot.


post #3 of 9
I'm not sure I understand, but if the boots fit ok and work ok when buckled up I would leave them alone. How many times a day do you have to touch that buckle? Twice. Once to put them on and once to take them off. Not much of a problem if you ask me. If on the other hand, you mean that when you do them up they don't tighten correctly, then bring em back where you bought them; he messed up.

I would try not to damage the plastic any more.
post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Actually I asked him to drill new holes because I had to buckle on the maximum level and in few ski-days I would have needed to readjust the ratchets anyway. As not only holes but also channels were required I thought that he will make all this better than me because he did a really good job with the fitting. Unfortunately he made the holes on the left boot (the right one is ok) so far (visible even without measuring it) that now I can`t use the forth (upper) ratchet on its new position (will be able to do this only after the liner eventually packs out). He also drilled the plastic under the third buckles which was absolutely not needed. As the holes are similar to the default ones I hope it is not so bad for the plastic...so just wanted to take the best decision from now on. You are right- drilling more holes is not a good idea. I can wait for the liner to pack out and then to use the new holes of the 4th buckles and may be to glue scotch tape over the not needed holes for the 3rd buckles (may be this can also help to isolate sun\ice which could preserve the flexibility of the plastic)?

(btw I use definitely more then 2 times the buckles, may be it is a bad habit of mine but I must admit that before some difficult tracks I do a tighter buckling (especially on steep hills with a lot of rocks protruding) and when I do leisure tracks/or on the lift I just relax - me and my buckles ..
post #5 of 9
Not sure why you had the rachets moved and new holes drilled. The Beast has moveable rachets and there are other ways to take up room in the boot for a skier with a narrow leg (assume that was your problem).

Do not drill more holes in the boot. Even if the plastic is tough the extra work could create stress fractures or weak areas that will eventually break.

Bare bones racing boots like the Dobermann are made to be worked on by skilled technicians and might be able to endure more modifications but you still need to know what you are doing.
post #6 of 9
I suggest getting out of here, troll. your posts are annoyingly false.
post #7 of 9
Originally Posted by gonzostrike
I suggest getting out of here, troll. your posts are annoyingly false.
Now this has me confused. You said "posts" and the only one who posted to the thread more than once was the original person who asked the question. DO you think the question(s) are a troll?
post #8 of 9
Yeah, wtf?

I'm confused.

I'd take the boot back to the bootfitter and ask him not to smoke his breakfast again, if the difference is annoying/noticeable. Otherwise, ski it like Ghost suggested.
post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
I applied a fabric tape (a strong textile covered duct tape) over the holes which I dont use.
Do you think this can strengthen the PU shell?
Btw yesterday I thought how many things I can do with this tape. I am not sure if I can increase the strength but it is so thick that if i glue few layers at the heel area (this time inside the shell) I can narrow the shell and make the fit even snugger ..
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