New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

mounting bindings

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I was wondering how hard it is to mount bindings. I have a 4 year old pair of 190 cm atomic beta ride 10.20's with xentrix 4.12 bindings mounted on the factory riser plates. I just got a new pair of last year's 180cm atomic sx:9's with the factory riser plates. How hard would it be for me to transfer the xentrix bindings form the 10.20's to the sx:9's?

I've always heard the best/safest thing to do is take them to a shop and leave it to the professionals. This is probably what I'll end up doing, but if it is not a difficult process I'd like to save some cash and try it myself.

Thanks
post #2 of 20
atomic plates come pre drilled for atomic bindings, that means all you have to do is screw the binding into the right holes (it says on the ski where to mount depending on your sole length). you "mount" your bindings and save the $25 the ski shop will charge you. if you dont know how to adjust the front and rear pressure take them into a shop so they can make sure everythings safe -- they should do that for free.

to get them off your old skis -- unscrew the plate that sits underneath your boot (pretty obvious) lift the top metal piece so the bottom is not linked to it anymore, slide the heel piece straight backwards all the way out. 4 screws remove the heel plate from the ski. to get the toe piece off push the lever that slides the binding, slide the toe piece forward (you'll have to finagle the stopper) and itll slide right out. 3 screws remove the toe plate. ya done! put them back on your sx9 the same way.
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much for the quick response. It sounds like it is a job I'll definitely do myself....Does anyone know of a link with pictures or anything describing the process?

Thanks in advance.
post #4 of 20
[QUOTE if you dont know how to adjust the front and rear pressure take them into a shop so they can make sure everythings safe -- they should do that for free.
.[/quote]
Don't take this the wrong way, but why do people think we (shops) should do stuff for free. If a person did not buy anything from me I am not going do much for free for them. Our time is worth somthing, we have overhead like any other buissness.
post #5 of 20
[quote=BootDude]
Quote:
Don't take this the wrong way, but why do people think we (shops) should do stuff for free. If a person did not buy anything from me I am not going do much for free for them. Our time is worth somthing, we have overhead like any other buissness.
I wasn't going to say it but...

Not only that- as a shop if you touch that ski and something happens it could be lawsuit city. Risky enough when you're getting paid.
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
How do you adjust the rear pressure plate? Or is it something that should be left to the pros?
post #7 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackwolfsburg
How do you adjust the rear pressure plate? Or is it something that should be left to the pros?
No offense but, it really sounds like you dont have a good enough idea what your doing. Take the skis to a shop and watch while they adjust them. Ask questions, they will answer them.then you'll know for sure how to do it. Its very tough to answer questions like this over the internet. Having your bindings adjusted correctly is very important. Do not try it if your not sure if you're doing it right.
Just my $0.02.

Duke
post #8 of 20
As a proudly uncertified, yet heretofore successfull binding manipulator, I'll tell you how I adjust the forward pressure on my Atomic 6.14 bindings. Proper forward pressure is achieved when the rear adjustment screw head is flush with the binding housing.

Make sure you see that this is true when you click the boot in, and not just while you are adjusting the screw. I don't know where I learned this, but It serems to have worked fine for me ever since way back in the days of the hot purple ESS VAR bindings.

If I'm wrong, than I'm sure somebody will be glad to correct me.
post #9 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by carvemeister
If I'm wrong, than I'm sure somebody will be glad to correct me.
Just hope it's not the law firm of Dewey, Screwem and Howe.

I agree with Duke, Blackwolfsburg is asking too many questions to even concidering mounting these himself.
post #10 of 20
With Atomic bindings on an Atomic plate, the amount of work required to remount bindings is less than that required to drive to the ski shop.
post #11 of 20
Thread Starter 
I appreciate all the responses. Yes I am new to this, and I don't have a lot of knowledge about it. This is why I'm asking questions and trying to get the advice from as many as possible.

I am a mechanically inclined person, just haven't worked much with skis' before. It seems that removing my bindings from an atomic plate and transfering them to another atomic plate wont be a problem for me, but adjusting the pressure plates might be. Because of this, I might try to mount the bindings myself and see what a shop would charge to adjust the pressure plates. If this thinking is flawed or wont work please let me know.

Thanks in advance
post #12 of 20
I may be wrong, but any shop worth thier salt shouldn't charge the same to mount an Atomic that requires no drilling. Past that, If you are going to mount them yourself, I assume you have pozi-drive screw drivers and are the manuals to torque the screws properly. Sounds to me like you are being penny wise and dollar foolish, but I have done my share of stupid/foolish things too, so have at it >
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Pugliese
Just hope it's not the law firm of Dewey, Screwem and Howe.

I agree with Duke, Blackwolfsburg is asking too many questions to even concidering mounting these himself.
Well, I think the guy's asking for some information, and is a big enough boy to decide if he then wants to go ahead and mount them. Of course it's (almost) always better to have a shop mount your bindings, but mounting a pair of Atomic bindings on a pre-drilled pair of Atomic plates is ridiculously easy. And while repeating the tired old mantra of "don't ever mount bindings without professional help" may be good advice for a child, it's not particularly helpful for somebody who wants to take some minor responsibility upon himself.

Not all skiers live in Colorado or Vermont. Some folks don't live anywhere near a ski shop, and would like to have the ability to tinker with their gear, or swap a pair of bindings in the garage, just like the maggots do, before leaving on a trip. Begging some sleepy shop rat at 08:30 to mount your bindings ASAP, may mean lost lines in fresh pow. Not a good thing at all.

If he wanted advice on mounting bindings for his wife, I might agree, don't do it, but if he wants to take a chance with his own knees, give him the info. Don't slap him on his wrist, and send him off to bed without dessert. I thought this forum was to share information, not withold it. Manuals for torqueing binding screws? How about just really tight? That's always worked for me.

Aaaah, the old binding mounting dilema: same-old same-old.
: Danger Will Robinson! Danger!! :
post #14 of 20
Carve, I here what you are saying and by no means am I saying that its rocket science. Heck, just look at your typical backshop guy. But it is easier to show a person how to do these adjustments than to give directions over the internet.


If someone want sto see how to mount Salomons or Markers, C'mon over to my house. I have the jigs and we will go at it.


Whats scary here is a little knowledge can get you into alot of trouble.
post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Pugliese
I may be wrong, but any shop worth thier salt shouldn't charge the same to mount an Atomic that requires no drilling. Past that, If you are going to mount them yourself, I assume you have pozi-drive screw drivers and are the manuals to torque the screws properly. Sounds to me like you are being penny wise and dollar foolish, but I have done my share of stupid/foolish things too, so have at it >
Don't forget that if a shop so much as turns a single screw on a binding they must function test the binding and have a paper trail to back the work, otherwise they have nothing to fall back on. You pay shops for alot more than the time, insurance is big$$ and getting bigger every year, also the equipment used to test bindings is pretty costly.
post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Pugliese
..., just look at your typical backshop guy. But it is easier to show a person how to do these adjustments than to give directions over the internet...Whats scary here is a little knowledge can get you into alot of trouble.
Can't argue with you on those, Phil! Point taken!
I just figure, that if a dumbass like me, who's mounted a few dozen bindings in my basement, using various tools, templates, and not a single jig, can have a few hundred days on self mounted bindings with not a single problem, then almost anybody with a thumb or two can probably learn to do the same.
post #17 of 20
Related question if you do not mind - I want to try out my wife's Volkl 4 stars, but it is not at all obvious looking at the LT Marker Motion bindings how you adjust them to a longer boot. (Mine, the AT on the other hand looks really simple, you just unlock and turn a dial). Is it really difficult? I do not mind leaving the DIN at her lower rating, I just want to try a few runs on her skis for comparison with the 5 stars.
post #18 of 20
NOGS-->you have to take the binding off the ski. You guys must have had some pretty bad back shop people. I hope you guys don't think all back shop guys are like that, ours certainly is not, I do everything at our shop from full bootfits to taking out the trash, then again we are a family owned place and pride ourselves in giving top service. Bindings are not that hard to mount just take your time, unfortunatly due to liabilty I cannot tell anyone how exactly to work on bindings.
post #19 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by BootDude
... Bindings are not that hard to mount just take your time, unfortunatly due to liabilty I cannot tell anyone how exactly to work on bindings.
Yes you can. Log on under a different name, say you're posting from Borneo, or Saipan, and spill your guts.

This does not threaten our National Security.
We mean you no harm, Earthling,
Information - that is all we seek!
post #20 of 20
Tricky subject. There are no special rituals for mounting Atomic bindings, but they require a proper adjustment to make work safely. A few tools WILL be needed to make certain that the mount is solid.

1. #3 Pozi Screwdriver - A #3 Philips will strip the screw head and not ensure proper screw torque.

2. A power driver fitted with a #3 Pozi driver bit - your hands will get tired before you reach proper torque specs. Be aware not to over torque the screws either.

3. 0.5 millimeter shim - to test to height settings.

If your present bindings are set prpoperly, use your boots in them to see what the binding should look like when it is closed. Then remove boot and remove 1 binding off one ski. Make a mental or written note of how it all came apart. Just so you don't unscrew too man screws, there is only one screw to remove to the AFD. There are 3 screws for the toe track. There are 4 screws for the heel track. That's all you get, but it should be enough to cover my ass, yet give you enough info if you are mechanically inclined as you say.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Ski Gear Discussion