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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Ski Gear Discussion › adjusting bindings (pilot)
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adjusting bindings (pilot)

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
im new to the board and was hoping to get some help. i just got a pair of crossmax 10's with the s912ti pilot bindings.

mounting the binding seemed easy enough. wasnt sure how tight to tighten the pins. i didnt put the hurt on them, but i yanked them down pretty good. looked like there was some type of threadlock also. hopefully im ok there.

ive never adjusted bindings persay. just tinkered with them. setting the DIN seems easy enough, just a quick turn of the screw.

i guess my real questions lie within fitting the boot to the binding. the toe piece and the back part of the binding both slide independently (as im sure you're aware). should i move them equidistant? is there some rule of thumb to move the toe piece x amount as compared to the back piece? shouldnt the boot be centered over some critical point of the ski?

also, the toe piece actually moves up and down (veritcally i mean, perpendicular to the snow). whats the best way to adjust this as well?

sorry for the long post. for years ive always brought my skis into the shop. i believe i can do it myself, i just need someone to hold my hand i guess. no one in texas can seem to help. go figure.

post #2 of 9
You could just forego the bindings entirely and screw your boots to the skis. 1-inch stainless drywall screws should work well. Make sure the ball of your foot is at the center of the running surface before you drill, though.

Or find someone to hold your hand and walk with you to a ski shop and have it done right.
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
what a warm welcome that was. ass. :

anyone with some constructive tips? maybe some links, books to read, etc.
post #4 of 9
You're right, that wasn't very polite. Sorry.

What I intended to say was that setting up the bindings yourself is a pretty bad idea.

Good luck. Have fun.
post #5 of 9
Welcome to epicski Judd, this place has a long history of not answering this question because everyone is afraid your legs will spontaneously explode if anyone other than a certified technician touches your bindings. But actually most people here crank their bindings beyond the recommended settings without understanding how their bindings work anyway. It's not rocket science, I think manufacturers should post technical manuals on the net so this sort of information can be accurately shared but instead it's all very hush-hush because of American liability laws. Sorry, you're not going to get a straight answer to your question here. Go to a shop and get them to show you.
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
apology accepted.

i figured i would get this type of response anyway. id like to learn though. i know i have the capability, i just need a little push.

the "hard stuff" is done. binding mounted. DIN adjusted correctly. since its the pilot binding, it can only mount on one spot of the ski. im just not sure if i should move the toe piece all the way back to meet the boot, or move the back piece all the way forward to meet the boot. or both?

surely someone knows the correct way to do this? anyone? :
post #7 of 9
There should be a center mark on your boot, and one on your ski. These should be lined up as closely as possible for normal people. If you want more speed and better turn initation, considder putting the boot's center mark forward of the ski's a couple of cm. Conversely, if you want a little less speed, more stability, and better float in powder, put the boot's center mark about 2 cm behind the ski's. Just don't blame me if your legs explode, because I'd take the finished product to a ski shop and pay them $10-$20 to have it checked.
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
zacman...thanks a million. i had never noticed the center lines before. genius!

quick question though. when moving the toe piece to take up the slack, when do i stop? should i crank it tight and back off a turn?

also, i read where you should adjust the height of the toe piece until a business card can be slid under. sound right?

and finally, if i wont be skiing again until, say spring break (few months), should i back the DIN off to release some tension?

and to all the nay sayers, i will be taking these to the shop to have a one over.
post #9 of 9
If you purchased the full set, there should have been instructions with the package (binding package) that told how to install the bindings. With a little bit of smarts and the correct tools it's very easy to install the pilot system.

A few things to watch out for.

1. You need a torx 25 (2 is better) and preferably a calibrated torque wrench or calibrated torque screwdriver. if it is calibrated to nm even better. You need to torque those pins to 5nm. I don't remember the conversion but can look it up if you need it in inch pounds.

Din setting are simple as you have found.

The booklet that came with the system has info on boot length and ski length that tell you what holes to mount the binding on, and then what slots to put each of the links into, etc.

The double check would be if the line on your boot lines up with the line on your ski.

The height from the glide pads is about the thickness of a business card.

If Salomon didn't think any adept person could handle the basic mounting, they would not have put the information in the consumer package and I don't think the lawyers would have let them either.

That being said, DO take them into a good shop and have them double check everything and do a release check. Din settings are only a "guideline" the release checker will often find that they are not right on.

Good luck and welcome to Epic ski, Sorry for the first rude welcome.
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