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post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
another tuning question:

just got a couple bars of wax. it's swix..rated for something like 14-25 deg i believe. anywho, in applying it i've noticed that it's much more brittle than what i'm used to using. it has a higher melting point, it doesn't stick to the ski when i first drip it on, it's very brittle when i scrape..comes off in little shards..and i can't quite buff it to look as nice and pretty and soapy as i'm accustomed (which is one of the more satisfying steps in waxing for me, even though it may be unnecessary [img]smile.gif[/img] ). is this normal? every wax i've used to this point (ok..fine...there've only been two) has been soapy feeling, whereas this is decidedly not. somethin wrong w/ the wax? somethin wrong w/ what i'm doin?
post #2 of 11
I take it you are using CH4. I found the same thing it is difficult to work with. As it has on the package you use a higher iron temp. I think I saw in the swix manual you are supposed to hot scrap rather than wait to cool down. I did a quick scrap after they cooled and 4 days latter there was surface wax still on my skis. Certainly long lasting. even though I hadn't scrapped to a smooth surface was still way faster than those on universal wax or just cold not supper cold wax.
post #3 of 11
Hard wax like that is tough to work with. Try melting one end of the bar then rubbing the bar on the ski like a marker. Or try to shred the wax into a 'dust' on the ski. Then drip a warmer "soapy" wax on top and iron this in. Hopefully the waxes will combine and you will have the protection of the hard wax.
post #4 of 11
The Swix Universal Cold & Warm waxes I've been using melt & scrape like butter; as you say very satisfying. When trying Swix Cera Nova it dripped ok but when I wwent back to iron it it didn't melt easily and I had to go back & forth alot, then scraping it was brittle and took a long hard effort to get a smooth base surface. The good part was that it skied really nice and is really durable. Costs a few bucks more harder to work with but I'm going to use the Cera Nova from now on.
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
thanks...i'm not sure exactly what kind of wax it is...i didn't get it off the shelf -- the store owner sold me a few larger bars from his shop. i'm not about to pay 11 bucks for one of those dinky little squares if i can avoid it.

i hot scraped half of my second ski, as an experiment, and did find that it was easier and gave a smoother result. i like how the wax flakes off the edges, and it was definitely fast today on the slopes....
post #6 of 11
Waxes for colder temps are harder, like you describe. It's normal for it to break and flake off. Use a sharp scraper and try not to take it down to level in one pass, use multiple passes with the scraper; take it down slower than you can with a soft wax. I usually tilt the scraper and scrape just the edges first as that is where the flaking is the worst. Also, melting on the thinnest layer you can helps. Don't hot scrape. Hot scraping will pull wax out of the base's pores and that's where you want wax. Don't worry about not having a thin surface film of wax on the base, it's the pores that count.

This year I haven't been using temperature specific waxes much and have been using Dominator Hyperzoom low-flouro all temp wax with good results. Occasionally if it's really cold or early in the season when there's lots of manmade stuff (which is murder on bases) I'll use some CH4 or something similar.
post #7 of 11
as Jim mentioned hot scraping will pull wax from the pores, You can however wait until the wax is cooled some and scrap before it gets cold and very hard.

It scrapes much better while still a little warm.
post #8 of 11
What color is the wax. Swix makes a purple wax 18 to 28 F that works well in most conditions.
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
it's light blue.
post #10 of 11
Light blue sounds like CH4 the wax for coldest conditions -10 to - 32°C.
Actually I shouldn't have posted "hot" scrape but diffently warm. Per the Swix Tech manual- " SCRAPING the BRITTLE COLD SNOW WAXES.....After ironing , if the excess wax is allowed to completely cool, the wax will tend to chip away from the base when scraping. it is better to scrape the majority of the excess wax off the base while the base is still slighly warm."
Just as acomparison the iron temp. for CH4 is 145°C while CH7 -2to -8°C is 135°C. Its hard to melt unless you realy crank the iron temp up and it goes hard really fast unless your in a really hot room. So by the time you put down the iron and pick up your scraper and take a breath the wax has hardened up to be warm. Wait any longer and its cool as far as the wax is concerned.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ March 07, 2002 04:20 PM: Message edited 2 times, by dougw ]</font>
post #11 of 11
After Scraping ..brushing also helps smooth things out, and then for an ultra smooth finsh you can cork.

You can do a minimal scrape while the wax is still warm to remove any over abundance, but this shouldn't be done too aggressively, because, as suggested in another post, you would pull wax from the pores of the base and that's why you wax in the first place.
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