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Base-Welds at Home?

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I get so many core shots, I'm looking into getting a setup at home to fix them myself. So what do I need and where can I get it? I figure I need some kind of heat-gun to prepare and insert the new base material. I know I can't just use a p-tex candle, but where can I get the material? (I'm talking about real base welds here, not just dripping and scraping p-tex sticks)

Also, is it necessary to cut a rectangle around the damaged part of the base, or can I just fill it in whatever shape the rock left it?

Any advise on what I need, how to do it, and where to get the items would be much appreciated.

post #2 of 14
Its well documented how much tuning equipement I have. . When it gets into that much damage...A phone call to my rep is in order. Time for new boards.
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
You replace your skis every time you get a core shot!? If I did that, I'd be buying new skis about every 5 times I skied! Perhaps part of my problem is my "all skis are rock skis" mentality, and the type of terrain I like.

I know shops (if you find the right ones) can repair it with a base-weld to be as good as new (as long as the edge survived), but there must be a reasonable set of base-welding equipment for the do-it-yourself crowd.
post #4 of 14
Just out of curiosity, what the hell is a base weld? (I thought it was using that P-Tex candle!)
post #5 of 14
It's been a long time since I worked in shops so hopefully someone can elaborate on any new-fangled ways that are better, but here's how we use to do it:

Base welds: clean the area, fire up the welder/extruder, weld molten p-tex into the gouge, let cool to room temp, scrape off excess carefully with first a versplaner then a steel scraper (be careful not to get under weld and rip it out). Then structure with sandpaper and tune as normal. Planng/scraping too soon, trying to take too much off too quickly, and not starting out with a clean area are the rookie mistakes.

Patches: Cut p-text from sheet just big enough to cover hole in base. Use it a guide to cut out base to fit it. Avoid square shapes or other corners, go for rounded football shapes. Get some 2-part 24-hour epoxy, something that will stay flexible in the cold (Sorry, can't remember the brand of the stuff we use to use - it would get so hot after mixing it would melt the styrofoam cups we mixed it in). Mix epoxy, apply liberally, put patch in place and clamp with heavy flat piece of metal over area. Be sure to put saran-wrap between clamp and epoxy/ski - don't epoxy clamp to ski.) Let cure for as long as you can stand it - 3 days or so at the warmest, constant temp you can manage. Go the versaplaner, sandpaper route to take the epoxy off and bring the patch flush with the base. Again, patience and cleanliness are the keys.

Use a weld when you can, if the area is too big or too much steel or fiberglass is involved the p-tex won't bond well, go the patch route.

Check out www.race-werks.com and www.tognar.com for tools. You're looking at a couple of hundred bucks to get setup to do this right. Have fun.
post #6 of 14
I don't know how effective this method of base-welding is, but here goes...our shop tech does this and it comes out pretty damn awsome.

What it requires:
1. Iron
2. Ptex Roll (note, a stick might not work)
3. A hand press
4. Iron/Metal base scraper
5. Misc hand tools that are usually around the house like exacto knives =)

Cut the area of the weld into a rectangular area / shaped area. Now, take the ptex roll, and cut them into a few strips and lay them into the cut out area. Determine the length of each strip as needed. once you're done with that, clean the area that is going to be ptexed (eg, dry the area, get rid of dirt etc etc etc).

Now, take the strips and lay em in there, and take the iron, fire it up (don't know what setting) and just press down on the ptex. The ptex should have a melting temp of about 140 celsius, so the iron should take care of it. Eventually, the iron will melt the ptex and let it stick to the cut out area. Once the ptex cools a little bit, take the hand press and just roll it side to side with alot of pressure. This supposedly presses out any excess water or bubbles or whatever. Just press the crap out of it =).

Next, after the ptex cools, take a metal scraper and scrape it down.

don't get molten ptex on you...it's like the worst thing to get a burn with cause once it sticks to you, it won't come off or splatter off like water until it cools =) You'll get a 2nd degree burn. My manager said he'd show me how to do base welds within the next few days so i'll see how it goes and get back to you on that if it's something that can be done at home =)

post #7 of 14
Any gouge that's either a coreshot or next to the steel edge should have an initial fill layer of copolymer mat'l.(string) ( A repair iron or pistol will do the job) That is --the first layer done with the copolymer string which will adhere to the core and or edge mat'l. Let it cool then build up with p-tex the rest of the way as you would with a "regular" gouge. It's simple and holds well. This is assuming the damage isn't so large an area that you need a patch...
post #8 of 14
AC Some ideas for you. I have seen people using butane burners to melt p-tex into small welding. The problem with p-tex burning is the carbon that happens when the flame turns orange or sompthing. The butane I understand will burn cleaner and there will be less coruption and the weld will be cleaner. YOu can also prep the area with heat much easier with this type of burner. If you carve small slivers it can melt better also. SOmetimes as you say cutting away damaged base material will make the welding dificult. Prep with epoxy and layer in some cloth on top for the p-tex to stick to. Lots of trick for the home shop.
post #9 of 14
AC, I'm in the same boat as this year I've got about six coreshots in 8 days of skiing. Non coreshots haven't been repaired yet but coreshots repaired by iron with copolymer cord with an overlay of ptex ribbon. If in a hurry just use copolymer as its quick to use ie melt. Copolymer is only a little harder than drip Ptex so will get erosion over time but can overlay with ptex latter. The ironed on ptex is very hard and somewhat hard to work with but gives the most permanent result. I find removing excess ptex with a metal scrapper very difficult but with a plane, ski visions, works well.
Additional- I must disagree on using the verascapper or what ever its called. A you can get it from any large hardwarware store and it with its teeth would only be good for removing gross amounts of excess. Its a lot more money but go for the plane and use the scrapper for paint removal.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ December 17, 2001 07:23 AM: Message edited 1 time, by dougw ]</font>
post #10 of 14
AC -

I'm surprised you didn't use the search to find threads on this. Here are a couple recent threads on the subject:

I get my stuff from Tognar which is out of Mt. Shasta City.
post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!

Rio -- you are of course correct, I should have done a seartch first, but it looks like I lucked out with some good feedback in addition to those older threads.
post #12 of 14
Since so much of the West has no snow at all, it looks like many of us are going to need to learn how to do some serious base welding, so here is a thread to get you started. Have fun and dont burn yourself with PTex lava. [img]graemlins/evilgrin.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

post #13 of 14
Originally posted by Maddog1959:
Since so much of the West has no snow at all, it looks like many of us are going to need to learn how to do some serious base welding...
And for those of you who would rather go skiing. Louis in Whistler (Wild Willies at Nestors) does superb base welds. I core-shotted my Volkls, 9" and 6" near the edge down to the metal.
You couldn't see the repair. But then they were Volkls.
post #14 of 14
AC, I have had good results doing what Bridgeman said ( co-polymer string) for smaller repairs. When it is a larger jagged type damage I cut a rectangle out and fill the bottom (core) with epoxy and then build up with co-polmer and then ptex.
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