All snow types can be compared to sandpaper. Different snow types are like different grits. The idea is to find a wax that is "flexible" enough to have good gliding characteristics and good protective qualities.
Dominator Zoom and Swix CH7 are great choices, as they are comprised of one soft component and one hard. This principal allows the parraphin to soften a bit when the surface temp warms up, and stiffen up a bit when it becomes cold.
On the World Cup, I waxed Hilary Lindh's Dh skis with the same wax combo for virtually most events, using Flouro's ONLY when necessary. At this level of competition it's very important to enter as few variables into the tune and wax equation as possible. Lower variability will always increase one's chances for success.
Here was my most versatile wax combo:
Polyethylene base material is a petrolium based product. It does not "dry out."
The "drying out" effect is the process of snow abrasion actually "tearing out" the soot particles from graphite sintered base material. Base material does not oxidise. A new ski can sit on the racks for hundreds of years being exposed to air, and it will never turn grey.
The first and most critical component to ward of the effects of abrasion is a good base grind. A perfectly hairless finish on the base will always attract less friction, therefore slowing down the abrasive effects of snow on plastic. Once you start to "disturb" the base material with sandpaper, over-heating or other abrasive devices, abrasion will come quicker.
The next critical component is wax. It is a lubricant and protectant. The more you wax, the more protection. To receive the ultimate benefits of wax protection, you need to iron hot wax, then during the ski day, rub on wax at various intervals. The very best tool for this is called a Wax Wizard. Look for it at www.alpineskituning.com
. I helped test this product, and can verify its amazing qualities. However, proper waxing technique will dictate whether you burn the base or not. Most people do burn their bases by using a poor iron that is too hot, combined with not melting enough wax on the base to start with. Or by using a wax that is too hard CH6-CH4, when the bases have not been pre-warmed using a softer wax. If you run the iron more than 3-4 continual passes, your chances for burning will increase tenfold.
Base burning melts the pores of the base together creating an extruded surface. This will decrease the bases ability to absorb wax. Whenever your iron sticks to the base, you have instantly burned it. Whenever you scrape the base and the scraper feels like it catches or drags, the base has been burned. This condition is known as "peels." You will find dark residue in the wax scrapings. Some people think it's dirt, but unfortunately it's your base.
Visually, burning is indicated by various shaded areas along the running surface, dark and light spotting.
The only way to get rid of this, is a stone grind to reveal a fresh layer of polyehtylene and start fresh again.
Suffice to say, this is a great topic, but I have to stop now.
Please let me know if I can be of any more help.