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Base and Side Edge Angles on New Skis - Page 3

post #61 of 63
Hi Warren,

For most of last year my fiance and I skied dozens of days on skis with 3 degree base/3 degree side edge bevels. Skidoc has convinced me that our skis will perform much better with a 1 degree base bevel, and I'm having him refinish them.

However, we neither died, nor frankly even fell at any point. We skied a lot at Berkshire East, a steep and well groomed Massachusetts Hill and Vail.

I can say that the skis didn't hold as well as I'd like on hardpack and ice and I do look forward to my edges being easier to get to with a smaller base bevel.

In hero Colorado snow it did allow me to really fly, and in "Wheeee!" conditions the 3 degree base bevel worked fine.

post #62 of 63

Thanks for staying on top of the discussion. I'm afraid I don't get to check in very often!
I would never put .5 degree of base bevel on these skis. The actual steepness of the terrain compensates for bevel relief.

A heavy 1 degree might make the difference. .5 degree has a pretty substantial effect on a skis resistance.
That's a very fair point--I'm going to try and address it this season, in fact, with some side-by-side testing in the coming months. I have a pair of skis I've set up with your 1-deg. base/3-deg. side bevels, and I'll be switching back and forth between those and my graduated-bevel pair. It's unfortunately not even close to scientific, since they're not the same ski/same length, but it's the best I can do for now. It should be an interesting compare/contrast exercise, and maybe it'll bear some fruit for the tuning freak in us all.

I also feel the other reason my exact angles work so well in all conditions is because how smooth the disc finish is. Conventional base filing leaves too much structure in the base edge which will always impede lateral freedom.
Boy, that's a great point too. All my tuning is hand work, and although I do polish my finished edges with a gummi stone and, occasionally, 400-grit wet/dry paper, I don't work too hard at it! I can appreciate the fact that as a result, my edges must be far rougher and grippier (laterally) than a disc-finished product, leading to more unpredictable release characteristics.

Bearing this in mind, since I'm going to be hand-tuning as a rule, would you recommend anything other than your standard angles and/or detune technique due to this inevitable difference in base edge friction? Any way to confront this problem for the lowly hand-tuner?

Thanks always,
post #63 of 63

Try using finer chrome files, 6" to be exact. This will leave a finer structure in the base edge.
Go to www.alpineskituning.com and procur some of the amazing 3M sandpaper that ray uses with his tools. The stuff actually cuts metal, and should be a key element is smoothing out those peaks from hand filing. Or just give his base beveler a try. Ray is a very smart man, and we consult each other on many tuning issues. He lives just down the road from me.
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