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Quick and dirty, but effective ski waxing? Is there such a thing?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
With two kids and one spouse, I cannot afford to spend too much time on ski tuning. I know it's a poor excuse..., but I really wish I could.

Are there easy and quick, but relatively effective ski waxing products out there? Is there any no-ironing rub-on wax that works good enough for advanced recreational skier?

Or, is ironing the only way to get good result?

Give me real Konayuki.
post #2 of 20
rub on stuff is ok, but you must do it everyday. If I am using rub on(I forgot my iron on my last trip) it can be usefull it rub some on at lunch time.

post #3 of 20
Why would you resist using an iron? I use a "yard sale", it was free, steam iron. Other essential and dirt cheap items are a plastic scraper and a kitchen Scotch-Brite pad.

Heavy duty rubber bands are necessary to keep the brakes retracted.

Basic waxes are about $6 and will do about 6 pair .... or go with the high fluro at $25 a bar.

How did you come up with the name Konayuki?
post #4 of 20
I can make the ironing process a little quicker for you. Instead of holding your wax against the iron and dripping it on, crayon/rub it on first (should only take a few seconds per ski). Then with your iron (set at the lowest temp possible that will still melt the wax -smoke no good) run it over the skis until there is an even coating. Set aside and repeat on the next set of skis ....etc until finished with every pair. Give each ski a few minutes for the wax to cool and soak into your bases. This will minimize the amount of wax you use and might even eliminate the scraping step. Buff with a green scotch brite pad after the wax has had time to set up. Quick, dirty and you're stylishly swooshing down the slopes.

Some of the 'no iron' waxes are good but most of them are completey rubbed off by the time you're buying your brood a mid afternoon snack. Hope it works for you. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thank you guys for the information.

How did you come up with the name Yuki, then? Or, do you by any chance have a Japanese girl friend named Yuki?

You got it right. Again, it's Japanese.

I think I will try the crayon/rub-then-iron approach. I will find a cheap iron somewhere this weekend.

I wonder if you guys could help me with a few more questions:
1) I thought you need two layers of wax: one applied with iron to penetrate into the base and another one on top of it. Or, is one application OK?
2) How long would ironed wax last? I am planning a trip to Jay Peak, VT for six days in Dec. and four-day trip to Loveland, CO. Do I need to re-wax during the trip?
3) Do you clean the base with wax remover first every time you apply wax?

post #6 of 20
90% of the time I don't even bother scraping.. A quick melt on of the wax, iron it in for a minute or two at low temps to ensure proper absorbtion, and then strap my skis together and head for the hill! Works extremely well in cold/icy/artificial/Eastern snow conditions where the snow crystals are very sharp and remove your wax quickly. The first twenty or so feet they don't glide the best, but the rest of the day is great! When the weather gets a little warmer I usually take the time to scrape and prepare them nicely..

To answer your questions:

- You don't need two layers of wax. There are so many different waxing theories out there, especially for race day prep, but in general, one FINAL waxing is sufficient. (not saying that hot scraping or other saturating methods aren't useful, just not included in the scope of this answer)

- When you say "last" do you mean how long will it be as though you just waxed? A few runs at best. How often should you wax? Depending on the type of snow you're skiing, every few days your skis will probably enjoy having a fresh wax job..

- No, I don't but I know some people who do.. And there are other methods of base cleaning that I believe work better, and are better for base/wax saturation (ie: hot scraping)
post #7 of 20
yuki = snow
konayuki = powder snow [img]smile.gif[/img]

anyways...yeah, the crayon deal works wonders. I do it in the shop all the time. It cuts down on the amount of time it takes to wax a pair of skis [img]smile.gif[/img] Just rub it on quick, iron it, let cool, and the scraping only takes about 10 seconds/ski. Then take a scotch brite or horsehair brush, and buff and you're set. Whole process takes about...5 min of labor/pair of skis [img]smile.gif[/img] you have to let the wax cool after ironing it tho.

Another thing that'd work [img]smile.gif[/img]
lemon pledge. Spray it on, buff with scotch brite, ski a run, repeat [img]smile.gif[/img]

post #8 of 20
Konayuki: Very close! Ex-wife was a military brat raised in Japan and we had a pooch named Yuki. The other part came from a long association with my Sensei through the Japan Karate Association.

Swix sells a very small wax iron for travel. Swix also makes a rub on fluro paste that works quite well and is not very expensive. A shoe polish like paste, is great for a quick after lunch renewal, between NASTAR runs etc. Not very costly and my last can made it through the season and was often passed around (scrounged by instructors who didn't wax) on sticky days.

Waxing in a hotel room ..... over some newspapers on the sink (ski stays flat while the binding is in the bowl), with the vent on so the alarms don't go off. They never have, but I have a fear of eviction if they did. :
post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the clarification.

A great story. For the last couple of years, I used run-on type things from Swix and another manufacturer. I was not sure how effective they were (only a few runs?), but my skis looked wax-free when I took a lunch break. Thanks for the info.

post #10 of 20
if the alarms go off, you know right there that your iron is too hot! it's a good failsafe

seriously, your iron should NOT be smoking while waxing...if it is, it's too hot and it oxidizes the base material. once it's oxidized, it's difficult to get wax into the base again [img]smile.gif[/img]

and...you can't have a thing called too much iron waxing. ideally, you want to wax after every day if possible. i try to. if not, about 3-4 days of skiing should do. If you do iron wax, though, you can get the el cheapo belt wax after a day or 2 to prolong your need for an iron wax. ($5/pair of skis).

post #11 of 20
When I don't have time to hot wax and sweep up the shavings I use Swix F4 paste wax - goes on like shoe polish. It lasts longer if I cork it in instead of just rubbing with a cloth or paper towel. It lasts about a day. Another convenient wax that works pretty well and is convenient to carry on the mountain is the Toko spray-on liquid. Both waxes have a pretty wide temperature range.

post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback. Now, this is what I was wondering ... what if I do not wax at all. I have never had a chance to compare with- or without-ski wax performance. I have been automatically assuming that wax creates less friction between skis and snow surface.

Physically speaking, on powder (more friction) or on wet snow surface (suction), I would think the difference between with or without wax would be great. But, on packed powder or on icy surface, I wonder if wax makes significant difference. Any thoughts on this?
post #13 of 20
The thought would be fried bases. The heat generated would either fry the skis all together, or heat them enough that they wouldn't suck up the wax and you would have to get them ground.
post #14 of 20
Thread Starter 
I see. So, what you are saying is that wax is not just for sliding/gliding, but also for protecting the base from frictional heat. I learned something today. Thanks.
post #15 of 20
Big mistake! There are days when the snow conditions when combined with a rapid temprature change will cause your skis to form a layer of ice on the base. You will go nowhere and will have to scrape just to get back to the lodge.

Since many areas don't wax the rentals often, I have had an entire class stuck fast. I keep a pocket comb for such occasions and end up wasting fifteen or twenty minutes scraping a dozen skis.

[ December 12, 2002, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: yuki ]
post #16 of 20
Originally posted by artimus:
The thought would be fried bases. The heat generated would either fry the skis all together, or heat them enough that they wouldn't suck up the wax and you would have to get them ground.
I was skiing without wax today and my bases got so hot they melted. I hope the warranty covers it.

Actually, hot waxing or grinding heats the bases far more than skiing dry bases ever can. Unwaxed bases can oxydize, in whiich case thay will be slow and will not absorb wax. Sanding or grinding the bases will restore them.


[ December 12, 2002, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: John Dowling ]
post #17 of 20
Use Notwax. Quick, cheap, and it works.

edit: anticipating naysayers (Luddites! [img]tongue.gif[/img] ), I don't wish to argue about this. I will only say that I have been using Notwax for 7 years, and have never had any "base drying" problems, and it has always performed as advertised. I use it instead of wax, not over wax, btw.

[ December 12, 2002, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: milesb ]
post #18 of 20
it allows for the ski to glide better
it protects bases

how it allows the ski to glide better was sort of a debated topic. i don't know if it's been proven one way or another, but...i was under the impression that when you're skiing, there's enough friction between snow and base that the snow melts. Also, there's enough friction to gradually melt the wax. It's the repulsion between the water and wax that allows for better glide. So...while you have wax in your base, the wax "melts out" so to say. Once the wax is completely gone, you have a dry base. You also have contact with water, and air. Now, take air/water and the base and heat and you have the elements to oxidize the base very quickly. So, the wax serves 2 purposes at the same time [img]smile.gif[/img] nifty eh?

post #19 of 20
Thread Starter 
Makes sense. From a microscopic view point, the enegy generated by ski's pressure on and friction against snow surface should melt the snow and create a thin layer of water between ski and snow. That must help skis glide. The same logic applies to ice skating.

If wax repell water effectively, then I think it should help skis glide better. With the same reason, it should protect the base from oxidation.

But what I am really wondering about is how effective wax could be for modern shaped skis in terms of better gliding. Just curious. Years ago, I was told that wax helps traditional skis' tails swing right and left on the snow, i.e., helping skis skid, as well as liniar slide. But, with proper angulation of the edges, modern shaped skis turn with little skidding or lock the ski's path, or carve, with ski's edge Unless you are going dead straight down hill with both skis flat on the snow surface, with shaped skis, less ski base-snow contact seems to occur.

Has anyone seen study on ski wax effectiveness?
post #20 of 20
Unfortunately my locker @ whistler does not have any ac power, so hot waxing is out. There are also a lot of dangers associated with hot-waxing without adequate ventilation. Anyone reading up on it would probably not hot-wax unless they used a vent hood and face/mask respirator.

Here are some links to possible dangers.

Flouro Carbon Waxing for skiing/snowboarding

Far West NOrdic News -
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