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Footbeds, or new boots??

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I have been skiing on a pair on Lange X9 racing boots for the past 8 or 9 years - considering getting some footbeds, or perhaps new boots something not quite as stiff... any comments or recommendations on generic vs. custom footbeds or new boots entirely would be greatly appreciated!
post #2 of 14
Definitely get custom footbeds! They'll make the boots feel and perform much better. Have a GOOD bootfitter do them for you.
post #3 of 14
before you do anything else, get your fit checked and get some Custom footbeds. You will wonder how you ever skied with out them. Then evaluate if you need new boots.
You are in the heart of ski country. I'm sure you can find a great fitter in your area. For recommendations, do a search on boot fitters.<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by dchan (edited April 12, 2001).]</FONT>
post #4 of 14
OR get a little wacky and enjoy the end of season sales...
Get a new pair of boots with custom footbeds. Ahhh, then you'll REALLY be happy!
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies = Q2: If I got footbeds for my current boots (Generic or Custom) and I move to new boots can I use the same footbeds, or are they boot-specific?
post #6 of 14
Footbeds can almost always be used from boot to boot, as long as you don't go from something like a Lange race fit to a Koflach (really wide boot) or something weird like that. I've used one set of footbeds since 1988. They have been through about 5 pair of ski boots, and I now use them in my soft snowboard boots and rollerblades. This is another reason you shouldn't be afraid to part with the $100-$125 for custom footbeds.<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by JohnH (edited April 12, 2001).]</FONT>
post #7 of 14
Just curious as to opinions on whether footbeds should be rigid or somewhat flexible. I know we have already had the discussion on weight bearing vrs non-weight bearing in the casting process, but this is different.
I have used both types and prefer the rigid ones.
post #8 of 14
rigid. They should not bend of flex when pressure put on top. That's wasted movement and energy
post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
I was looking at some custom ones here at Colorado Ski&Golf, they look like some cork-like material - $90 for 1/2 cork, $130 for full..are there other options besides this?
post #10 of 14
There are a few companies that make them out of rigid plastic (solid no voids) They are milled out of a hard plastic and then they put a fabric on it for your feet. That or the superfeet Kork Full. don't get the half. Using the one with the cork all the way to the toes helps the toes keep from moving around too. The 1/2 version is more for walking or flexable shoes.
post #11 of 14
I have 3 different kinds. My oldest (DFPs) were made in '88, and are 2 different consistancies of foam. Both fairly soft. They are only partially posted, but only with the same foam. While thay are comfortable, and I have strait knee and ankle joints (no rolling or pronation/supination), they made the ski boots react more slowly to fine input. However, they work just fine in my roller blades and soft snowboard boots.

Then I decided to go rigid. Basically, they are hard plastic, covered with a layer of neoprene, done by an orthopedic. They aren't posted, but don't need to be, because the plastic is so damn stiff. They also only go forward to the front of the arch, then the neoprene continues with a piece of foam under it. I don't like these, because they are too stiff (hard), and are not full length. I can feel the front end of the plastic, and it bugs me. Also, they don't have the toe impressions, which I like, because I feel like I can "grab" with my toes if I need to, and get a bit of control from that.

It didn't take me long to decide I didn't like those, so, only a year later, I got a pair of top-end cork Superfeet. I love them. They are warm, comfortable, firm enough that input from the feet is immediately transferred to the boot, and yet soft enough that they don't hurt. Cork is good stuff.

I originally tried to get a set of Peterson cork beds when I got my first footbeds (the DFPs), when I was living in Summit County. But the bootfitter sucked, screwed them up twice, so I got my money back and bailed on him. At the time, the DFPs were probably better for me than cork anyway, because I wasn't advanced enough to really want every little bit of input going to the boots. But who knows, maybe they slowed my progress?
post #12 of 14
This is a confusing subject for me because there seem to be a lot of different answers. I have had several different footbeds made over the years. The first was made by a local "boot expert" and they were pretty much unusable. They were rigid and full length. The next set, made by a podiatrist, were also full length. These were made out of graphite and were semi-rigid. I had them for over 8 years and started feeing that I was collasping the arch a little which pushed the outside of my foot into the side of the boot(I pronate.) A different podiatrist made my current pair which are rigid and 3/4 length. These feel good and support my foot well. He is a former part-time instructor.
I was reading some material in HH book (page 181,182)in the alignment section which talked about not using rigid footbeds because it inhibits the kinetic chain.
I'm not sure who has the answers anymore. Do we have any footbed experts in the group? <FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by Lucky (edited April 13, 2001).]</FONT>
post #13 of 14
"it inhibits the kinetic chain." WTF??? Does anyone know what HH means by this? Doesn't it seem more likely that the more rigid a footbed is, the more easily it would transmit movement from the body to the equipment?
post #14 of 14
Everyone's foot is different. Therefore one type of footbed good for one may not be good for another. One man's ceiling is another man's floor! I have the Superfeet 3/4's. I couldn't afford the $130 ones. These have done fine for me except they took up more room in the boot which I deffinately don't need. It was like breaking in the boot all over again only worse. they finally settled down but my feet still fell asleep. it wasn't the foot bed's fault but the boot's. I had them stretched and deflexed. 1000% better but still some numbness now and then. I shaved off some cork (not much) at the arch and this really helped.
HH, I assume, is the Harold Harb book. Very good book! kinetic energy is energy in motion. I would think that a rigid footbed would transmit that energy better, but I'm not a rocket scientist.
Basically an etonic footbed makes your heel to toe travel straight; this repositions the power point of your foot from inside or outside (depending upon whether you are prone to supation or pronation of the knee) back to the second toe at the first joint where it's supposed to be. Tis takes care of 90% of all canting problems. Only after you get footbeds you like and work for you do you then look at canting if neccesary. Of course, footbeds also keep the footsie from flopping around like a makerel out of water. So basically, find something that works for you. Bob

Life's a pain... then you nap. Cat philosphy
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