We employ a wide variety of tools and techniques depending on what we are trying to change. Punching, stretching and grinding all have their advantages and disadvantages depending on the boot and the area involved.
Two of those three methods require the use of heat. As noted the Salomon easy bake boots mold at 200F, opaque polyurethane we typically heat to 250F, (a little less for translucent PU) and polyether, particularly the high quality plastic found in a race plug , I find does best at 300F to create a punch or stretch that will stay.
Other plastics, like Grilamid, Pebax etc. also have their own preferred molding temps. We measure them all with an infrared temperature gauge.
While we bake all kinds of boots in our oven (200F convection oven), in my experience polyether does not mold at a lower temperature than karpolene which is the Salomon plastic.
While I would not dispute that the race plug offers a much higher level of power and accuracy than the retail equivalent, the reality of skiing day to day in a plug boot is not for everyone.
We tell people skiing in a race boot on a daily basis is a lot like driving a race car to work each day. If you have the right skill set, you will get there faster, but there are issues with getting in and out, problems with temperature control and it is helpful if you have a team standing by to work on it.
I would also disagree with the idea that race plugs are easier to work on than their retail counterparts. There is quite a bit more time involved. Time when the boot is actually in your hands being worked, not just sitting on the press cooling, removing the buckles and cuff to grind out the clog takes time and unless you have built several pairs for that athlete the odds of getting it perfect the first time are not very good.
After we have built a race boot for someone, subsequent pairs are quite a bit easier, but it still takes more time than the average retail boot.