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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Sanding corners of topsheet, am i dumb?
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Sanding corners of topsheet, am i dumb?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Heyo EpicSki.

 

Everywhere i read about sidewall prepping and general ski prepping, panzer filing the topsheet is mentioned. I can see the idea etc., but i'm not gonna use a panzer file anywhere near my topsheet, scared ill dig too deep. Will rounding the corners a bit with sand paper help remove some of the small nicks? Or should i just leave it alone?

 

Ski - Volkl Racetiger Speedwall GS (cheater, 19m radius). Has a pretty high sidewall and the sidewall/topsheet junction is very sharp, so i definitely thought about rounding it with the sandpaper as mentioned.

 

I don't race, but i ski a lot. And spending time tuning my skis is no pain in the ass to me.

 

/Nick.

post #2 of 12
Sandpaper would work, but very gradually.
I use a regular (i.e. not panzer) file to do this on a routine basis; why not give that a shot?
post #3 of 12

I use a Multikut file. It has criss cross teeth  Works really well Takes off more easily than a regular file but not nearly as aggressive as a Panzar!

 

look for it at www.svst.com

 

 

 

 

Mkf08_500.jpg 


Edited by Atomicman - 3/22/16 at 3:17pm
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
 

I use a Multikut file. It has criss cross teeth  Works really well Takes of more easily than a regular file but not nearly as aggressive as a Panzar!

 

look for it at www.svst.com

 

 

 

 

Mkf08_500.jpg

 

How much do i want to remove in the tip/tail where my sidewall planer doesn't really do much? What are the warning signs when removing too much?

 

For tuning/waxing i had an old pair laying around i could test on, but they are cap skis (already rounded), so i got nothing to practice on.....

post #5 of 12
Have some fun, use something like this. Easier than all of the above though a file may still be needed. Sandpaper too. Start sculpting!


Once you start getting chips and nicks in the top sheet, then slice your finger in the parking lot bleeding over your coat, taking off some top sheet will make sense. Don't be squemish, Go for it. Too much? Too many words. 1/8 inch bevel is fine. Stay under that if worried.

You can also finish it with fine sandpaper. Your hands will thank you when carrying. You also have to keep doing it as things get roughed up.
post #6 of 12

I use a regular file and then smooth with sandpaper.  

post #7 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowsgomooh View Post
 

Heyo EpicSki.

 

Everywhere i read about sidewall prepping and general ski prepping, panzer filing the topsheet is mentioned. I can see the idea etc., but i'm not gonna use a panzer file anywhere near my topsheet, scared ill dig too deep. Will rounding the corners a bit with sand paper help remove some of the small nicks? Or should i just leave it alone?

 

Ski - Volkl Racetiger Speedwall GS (cheater, 19m radius). Has a pretty high sidewall and the sidewall/topsheet junction is very sharp, so i definitely thought about rounding it with the sandpaper as mentioned.

 

I don't race, but i ski a lot. And spending time tuning my skis is no pain in the ass to me.

 

/Nick.


Have you seen my video?   I go through a few skis here.  Check it out.  I use a bastard crosscut type file.

post #8 of 12
So far I've gotten by with 120-or-so grit sandpaper to smooth out nicks and cuts on the topsheet. It takes less than a minute per pair if I've got a lot of damage, so I've never even considered using a file. Besides, I don't want to remove more than I have to, though a big divet might justify pulling my little scrap of panzer file.
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tog View Post

Have some fun, use something like this. Easier than all of the above though a file may still be needed. Sandpaper too. Start sculpting!


Once you start getting chips and nicks in the top sheet, then slice your finger in the parking lot bleeding over your coat, taking off some top sheet will make sense. Don't be squemish, Go for it. Too much? Too many words. 1/8 inch bevel is fine. Stay under that if worried.

You can also finish it with fine sandpaper. Your hands will thank you when carrying. You also have to keep doing it as things get roughed up.

 

So things went pretty smooth with sandpaper, the tips and tail took some work, but it ended up pretty good! However, on my soul 7's i had a lot of trouble filing the tips and tails due to the shape of the skis. Any lifehacks here?

post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowsgomooh View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tog View Post

Have some fun, use something like this. Easier than all of the above though a file may still be needed. Sandpaper too. Start sculpting!


Once you start getting chips and nicks in the top sheet, then slice your finger in the parking lot bleeding over your coat, taking off some top sheet will make sense. Don't be squemish, Go for it. Too much? Too many words. 1/8 inch bevel is fine. Stay under that if worried.

You can also finish it with fine sandpaper. Your hands will thank you when carrying. You also have to keep doing it as things get roughed up.

 

So things went pretty smooth with sandpaper, the tips and tail took some work, but it ended up pretty good! However, on my soul 7's i had a lot of trouble filing the tips and tails due to the shape of the skis. Any lifehacks here?


Use a file the same as you would with any ski.  Here is another video from Edgewise.

post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tog View Post

Have some fun, use something like this. Easier than all of the above though a file may still be needed. Sandpaper too. Start sculpting!


Once you start getting chips and nicks in the top sheet, then slice your finger in the parking lot bleeding over your coat, taking off some top sheet will make sense. Don't be squemish, Go for it. Too much? Too many words. 1/8 inch bevel is fine. Stay under that if worried.

You can also finish it with fine sandpaper. Your hands will thank you when carrying. You also have to keep doing it as things get roughed up.

A Dremel works great too. I start off with a sanding drum, then finish off with the abrasive fiber disk. Between the two makes quick work of it, and the fiber disk really smooths things out.
post #12 of 12

I use the sanding mesh used to sand sheetrock. Same thing I use to keep my plastic scrapers clean between sharpenings.

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