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Head Rebel Race Plate information please

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Just received my new (almost) Head Rebel I Speed 180. Four of the holes in one ski plate have marks where a display binding was installed. Just on 1 ski.

 

1. Can the holes be reused and if so around how many times?

2. Where do I get the shim kits and how do I play around with raising the toe and heal of the race plate?

3. The demos I tried were tuned .5 and 3. I understand the factory tune is .75 and 3. I loved the demos, Is there that much of a difference between .5 and .75?

post #2 of 8

1. Many times if you are careful, turn the screw counter clockwise until you feel the threads 'drop' into the thread in the existing hole.

2. A Head race shop would be your best bet, any Head dealer should be able to order them for you.

3. Sort of depends how sensitive you are to things, some would say it is very noticeable, others, not so much. I'd try 'em first then tune them to your preference if you don't love them. If you are having them tuned before skiing them, just go .5, it will be .75 soon enough due to wear.

post #3 of 8

I'll give you my thoughts and hopefully we'll have others weigh in, as well. Bit not so many as to make it confusing. 

 

As you know, I've had some experience with the same ski. I've owned three pairs now in the same length, 180cm. I know how to ski. They work. I'll say it up front. Don't overthink this. 

 

First question, what bindings did you buy them with? I'm guessing FreeFlex Pro 14's? Most are set up that way. 

 

Presume they came with the stock plate, I have seen a couple pairs that have the real Head RDX race plate on them, but they were retro-fitted that way. Not sure why. The standard plate and that binding seem to match pretty well. 

 

I've had the bindings off and on my skis maybe 3-4 times, anyways. They aren't like a race plate, IMO, and I'd hesitate to do it frequently. If you do want to mess around with shims, I'd be very careful as to not strip the holes. As mentioned by Whiteroom, not over-tightening is really critical.  I Imagine that you could somehow get a Helicoil in that plate, but it might be a challenge. The holes are close enough to make it problematic. I've never tried to install one on that plate, nor have I seen anyone else try. 

 

I'm sure that the plates are just fine, but they are not designed to be pulling bindings off an on frequently. 

 

My son was a Head athlete for about five years, and he of course had their real plates {a few had RDX's...others a beefier plate}, and the big spring all metal Head branded Tyrolias. He didn't swap the bindings much. He pretty much knew how he wanted them dialed in in terms of the ramp angle, and there wasn't much messing around. He wanted them flat, and wanted to be at max permissible stand height. Keep in mind this was a 20-25 year old high level competitor.  

 

You can buy a complete Head shim kit from Head race, and as mentioned, I think any Head shop can probably order them for you. Shims and longer screws in case you need them.  That is, should you want to do all of that.  I, too, would start right there with a local shop. But, I'd ski the skis without ANY to start. Didn't you REALLY like the demo ski you tried? I presume that it had no shims. What makes you think that you need to change the angle? Try it and it if feels great, stop. Have you zero'd out the delta on your other skis.....and done any of that since you got your new boots? I ski in a very similar boot setup, with no shims, and I've been pleased with all three pairs. As I have mentioned before, I'm NOT doing any racing on them. I free ski them. 

 

The tune. I'd be amazed if you could feel the difference between a .75 and a .5 base edge bevel. If you had two pairs tuned both ways, I don't think you'd notice. If you can, that's unusual. Stick with the .75 and don't "undo" it to a .5  That would require a grind. No need, IMO. 

 

Those are my ideas. I sure wouldn't overthink it. You'll love them!

post #4 of 8

@levy1 my SL's came from SS with a  0.75/3 tune, haven't changed anything yet.  As soon as they need a base grind I'll change the base angle to 0.5 as it will need to be set up at that point.  So far no complaints.

 

I have GS with 0.5/4 and love them, with my old Dobermans SL's they where set to 0.5/4 and also loved them.

 

The difference between the 0.5 and 0.75 is a little more forgiveness with very little sacrifice on the responsiveness.  If you want to go to the extreme, wait until a base grind to go to a 0.5.

 

Easy way to remember which way to experiment tuning to maintain maximum life of the ski.

 

Base

 

From base grind (flat ski), Increase angle incrementally from 0 to 1 does not reduce life.  Going the other direction does as a base grind is required!  The 4 side is coming, when they need sharpening. 

 

Side

 

Setting the ski to a 5 initially isn't bad as very little edge is lost as you decrease incrementally from 5 to 3 as you only need to remove a tiny bit to change the contact angle and don't have to touch the whole width of the edge..  Going in the other direction does as you as the whole edge needs to be cut back.

 

Personally, I love a 0.5/4 but that works for me.  I've skied 1/3 and they are acceptable and very forgiving IMHO with still enough edge bite on stiff enough skis.  As I ski hard conditions southern Ontario I love hold with a side 4 and since my old school days love a responsive (extremely twitchy and catchy to some) ski so the 0.5 is my thing.

 

It's all in how well your balance and edge feel is.  This is a personal thing.

 

So ski them, when they need work make the adjustment then.  Maximize the life and make the changes selectively and carefully not to wear out a ski prematurely.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Cheers,

 

G

post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muleski View Post
 

I'll give you my thoughts and hopefully we'll have others weigh in, as well. Bit not so many as to make it confusing. 

 

As you know, I've had some experience with the same ski. I've owned three pairs now in the same length, 180cm. I know how to ski. They work. I'll say it up front. Don't overthink this. 

 

First question, what bindings did you buy them with? I'm guessing FreeFlex Pro 14's? Most are set up that way. 

 

Presume they came with the stock plate, I have seen a couple pairs that have the real Head RDX race plate on them, but they were retro-fitted that way. Not sure why. The standard plate and that binding seem to match pretty well. 

 

I've had the bindings off and on my skis maybe 3-4 times, anyways. They aren't like a race plate, IMO, and I'd hesitate to do it frequently. If you do want to mess around with shims, I'd be very careful as to not strip the holes. As mentioned by Whiteroom, not over-tightening is really critical.  I Imagine that you could somehow get a Helicoil in that plate, but it might be a challenge. The holes are close enough to make it problematic. I've never tried to install one on that plate, nor have I seen anyone else try. 

 

I'm sure that the plates are just fine, but they are not designed to be pulling bindings off an on frequently. 

 

My son was a Head athlete for about five years, and he of course had their real plates {a few had RDX's...others a beefier plate}, and the big spring all metal Head branded Tyrolias. He didn't swap the bindings much. He pretty much knew how he wanted them dialed in in terms of the ramp angle, and there wasn't much messing around. He wanted them flat, and wanted to be at max permissible stand height. Keep in mind this was a 20-25 year old high level competitor.  

 

You can buy a complete Head shim kit from Head race, and as mentioned, I think any Head shop can probably order them for you. Shims and longer screws in case you need them.  That is, should you want to do all of that.  I, too, would start right there with a local shop. But, I'd ski the skis without ANY to start. Didn't you REALLY like the demo ski you tried? I presume that it had no shims. What makes you think that you need to change the angle? Try it and it if feels great, stop. Have you zero'd out the delta on your other skis.....and done any of that since you got your new boots? I ski in a very similar boot setup, with no shims, and I've been pleased with all three pairs. As I have mentioned before, I'm NOT doing any racing on them. I free ski them. 

 

The tune. I'd be amazed if you could feel the difference between a .75 and a .5 base edge bevel. If you had two pairs tuned both ways, I don't think you'd notice. If you can, that's unusual. Stick with the .75 and don't "undo" it to a .5  That would require a grind. No need, IMO. 

 

Those are my ideas. I sure wouldn't overthink it. You'll love them!


This!

post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotsSkier View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muleski View Post
 

I'll give you my thoughts and hopefully we'll have others weigh in, as well. Bit not so many as to make it confusing. 

 

As you know, I've had some experience with the same ski. I've owned three pairs now in the same length, 180cm. I know how to ski. They work. I'll say it up front. Don't overthink this. 

 

First question, what bindings did you buy them with? I'm guessing FreeFlex Pro 14's? Most are set up that way. 

 

Presume they came with the stock plate, I have seen a couple pairs that have the real Head RDX race plate on them, but they were retro-fitted that way. Not sure why. The standard plate and that binding seem to match pretty well. 

 

I've had the bindings off and on my skis maybe 3-4 times, anyways. They aren't like a race plate, IMO, and I'd hesitate to do it frequently. If you do want to mess around with shims, I'd be very careful as to not strip the holes. As mentioned by Whiteroom, not over-tightening is really critical.  I Imagine that you could somehow get a Helicoil in that plate, but it might be a challenge. The holes are close enough to make it problematic. I've never tried to install one on that plate, nor have I seen anyone else try. 

 

I'm sure that the plates are just fine, but they are not designed to be pulling bindings off an on frequently. 

 

My son was a Head athlete for about five years, and he of course had their real plates {a few had RDX's...others a beefier plate}, and the big spring all metal Head branded Tyrolias. He didn't swap the bindings much. He pretty much knew how he wanted them dialed in in terms of the ramp angle, and there wasn't much messing around. He wanted them flat, and wanted to be at max permissible stand height. Keep in mind this was a 20-25 year old high level competitor.  

 

You can buy a complete Head shim kit from Head race, and as mentioned, I think any Head shop can probably order them for you. Shims and longer screws in case you need them.  That is, should you want to do all of that.  I, too, would start right there with a local shop. But, I'd ski the skis without ANY to start. Didn't you REALLY like the demo ski you tried? I presume that it had no shims. What makes you think that you need to change the angle? Try it and it if feels great, stop. Have you zero'd out the delta on your other skis.....and done any of that since you got your new boots? I ski in a very similar boot setup, with no shims, and I've been pleased with all three pairs. As I have mentioned before, I'm NOT doing any racing on them. I free ski them. 

 

The tune. I'd be amazed if you could feel the difference between a .75 and a .5 base edge bevel. If you had two pairs tuned both ways, I don't think you'd notice. If you can, that's unusual. Stick with the .75 and don't "undo" it to a .5  That would require a grind. No need, IMO. 

 

Those are my ideas. I sure wouldn't overthink it. You'll love them!


This!

Me, overthink!!

 

Never messed with Delta, just a kid with a new toy:yahoo:

Loved the demo at .5, 3

post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muleski View Post
 

I'll give you my thoughts and hopefully we'll have others weigh in, as well. Bit not so many as to make it confusing. 

 

As you know, I've had some experience with the same ski. I've owned three pairs now in the same length, 180cm. I know how to ski. They work. I'll say it up front. Don't overthink this. 

 

First question, what bindings did you buy them with? I'm guessing FreeFlex Pro 14's? Most are set up that way. 

 

Presume they came with the stock plate, I have seen a couple pairs that have the real Head RDX race plate on them, but they were retro-fitted that way. Not sure why. The standard plate and that binding seem to match pretty well. 

 

I've had the bindings off and on my skis maybe 3-4 times, anyways. They aren't like a race plate, IMO, and I'd hesitate to do it frequently. If you do want to mess around with shims, I'd be very careful as to not strip the holes. As mentioned by Whiteroom, not over-tightening is really critical.  I Imagine that you could somehow get a Helicoil in that plate, but it might be a challenge. The holes are close enough to make it problematic. I've never tried to install one on that plate, nor have I seen anyone else try. 

 

I'm sure that the plates are just fine, but they are not designed to be pulling bindings off an on frequently. 

 

My son was a Head athlete for about five years, and he of course had their real plates {a few had RDX's...others a beefier plate}, and the big spring all metal Head branded Tyrolias. He didn't swap the bindings much. He pretty much knew how he wanted them dialed in in terms of the ramp angle, and there wasn't much messing around. He wanted them flat, and wanted to be at max permissible stand height. Keep in mind this was a 20-25 year old high level competitor.  

 

You can buy a complete Head shim kit from Head race, and as mentioned, I think any Head shop can probably order them for you. Shims and longer screws in case you need them.  That is, should you want to do all of that.  I, too, would start right there with a local shop. But, I'd ski the skis without ANY to start. Didn't you REALLY like the demo ski you tried? I presume that it had no shims. What makes you think that you need to change the angle? Try it and it if feels great, stop. Have you zero'd out the delta on your other skis.....and done any of that since you got your new boots? I ski in a very similar boot setup, with no shims, and I've been pleased with all three pairs. As I have mentioned before, I'm NOT doing any racing on them. I free ski them. 

 

The tune. I'd be amazed if you could feel the difference between a .75 and a .5 base edge bevel. If you had two pairs tuned both ways, I don't think you'd notice. If you can, that's unusual. Stick with the .75 and don't "undo" it to a .5  That would require a grind. No need, IMO. 

 

Those are my ideas. I sure wouldn't overthink it. You'll love them!

Freeflex pro 14, stock plate. I loved the demos!

post #8 of 8

I'd just ski them with no shims, and mounted right where the plates indicate they should be mounted based on BSL. I'm sure that's how your demos were mounted. If you want, I might try sliding the toes and heels up one hole, to see if you like that. I wouldn't rush into it. Some people like to be mounted a touch ahead of the line on the ski. 

 

I'd stick with the .75 base tune. I'll be dollars to donuts that you'll love it, and won't notice it being any different than a .5  I would keep them sharp tip to tail.....no detuning. Wax 'em and ski them, and smile. These are going to be, as the demo proved a LOT more to your liking than anything in your previous quiver. It's probably accentuated by your new boots, too. Great set-up. Congratulations!

 

My hunch is that you'll absolutely love them. 

 

And at that point, I wouldn't do any tinkering. That's me personally. I'd rather ski the new toy and learn it's nuances and how it performs, etc.  Then get some advice, other than on an internet forum if you truly feel some tweaks are in order. 

 

That binding and plate is a nice combination. I'll repeat that it's NOT made for a lot of tinkering, so be careful when you remove and remount the bindings. 

 

Very happy for you to have found them! 

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