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Flattening a waxing iron? - Page 2

post #31 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cantunamunch View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsather View Post so it seems pointless to flatten it and possibly detrimental by making it slightly convex. On the other hand, maybe the convex shape is beneficial to spreading the wax (think "rocker"). The practice sounds a bit like paying big bucks for a special "audio power cable".

 

I do see a problem with a convex iron - if you squeeze out the melt all you're doing is heating the wax's antifriction additives and pressing them into the base 'dry'.

This statement makes no sense to me at all.   What may be needed on some irons and what I had to do to the Toko iron would not create a convex shape. 

 

No one said it would.   I was responding to @bsather  's hypothetical rockered iron shape.

post #32 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by cantunamunch View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cantunamunch View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsather View Post so it seems pointless to flatten it and possibly detrimental by making it slightly convex. On the other hand, maybe the convex shape is beneficial to spreading the wax (think "rocker"). The practice sounds a bit like paying big bucks for a special "audio power cable".

 

I do see a problem with a convex iron - if you squeeze out the melt all you're doing is heating the wax's antifriction additives and pressing them into the base 'dry'.

This statement makes no sense to me at all.   What may be needed on some irons and what I had to do to the Toko iron would not create a convex shape. 

 

No one said it would.   I was responding to @bsather  's hypothetical rockered iron shape.


Yea, I got that.  I just didn't get it otherwise.  It's all good.  Threads!

post #33 of 43

Never heard of it but I am going to sand it down if its not flat,

post #34 of 43

I think I'll float this past you, Jacques.  In flattening my iron (at first concave overall, highest at the corners), I left a very slight concavity - didn't take it to exactly uniform and was content to get those corners down.  I did this out of an abundance of caution so as not to get iron convexity, and thus to give the wax a tiny "float," if anything (rather than tempt the rocker or mid base burn mentioned above that I don't know if it's possible, but still wanted to avoid).  Also, in my case I wanted to allow for the inevitable uneven, convex wear in the base between flattenings, with greater wear towards the edges.  ???

 

 Often, when I have to run the iron over each side of the center separately to get a complete wax job I finally figure it's probably time to flatten my bases.  :)   ??? 

post #35 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by ski otter View Post
 

I think I'll float this past you, Jacques.  In flattening my iron (at first concave overall, highest at the corners), I left a very slight concavity - didn't take it to exactly uniform and was content to get those corners down.  I did this out of an abundance of caution so as not to get iron convexity, and thus to give the wax a tiny "float," if anything (rather than tempt the rocker or mid base burn mentioned above that I don't know if it's possible, but still wanted to avoid).  Also, in my case I wanted to allow for the inevitable uneven, convex wear in the base between flattenings, with greater wear towards the edges.  ???

 

 Often, when I have to run the iron over each side of the center separately to get a complete wax job I finally figure it's probably time to flatten my bases.  :)   ??? 


I think that's right.   No need to go overboard on the iron tuning.  Main thing is exactly what you did.  Get it much closer to flat. 

 

Same thing goes for the skis.  Sometimes a slightly convex base can make a ski a bit easier to ski.  More "playful".  Not so fast to engage and easier to slide and spin around.  Not always a bad thing.  A slightly concave base may make the ski very quick to engage as the edges have a hard and steady contact with the surface. 

 

Many skis can be either or at the tips and tails and either or more in the under foot area.  Either way, it affects the way the ski will handle.  A good example of this is the 4 dimensional  Elan Amphibio Ski Line. 

 

Take care Otter!

post #36 of 43

My iron came used but I was assured they left the "factory tune" on it..

post #37 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post
 

My iron came used but I was assured they left the "factory tune" on it..


You funny!  Funny is good.

post #38 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post
 

My iron came used but I was assured they left the "factory tune" on it..

 

Chevron?  

post #39 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by UllrIsLord View Post

You guys have got to be kidding talking about using sandpaper to flatten you waxing irons. That's the silliest thing I've ever heard.


I bring mine in for a Montana stone grind at the beginning of each season. 😜
That's what I do to... The guy also bevel the side of the iron cause I iron sideway...
post #40 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogsie View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by UllrIsLord View Post

You guys have got to be kidding talking about using sandpaper to flatten you waxing irons. That's the silliest thing I've ever heard.


I bring mine in for a Montana stone grind at the beginning of each season. 😜
That's what I do to... The guy also bevel the side of the iron cause I iron sideway...


We all.........well almost all iron sideways!  It may be the proper way!
If this doesn't start at 15:50, then go there!

post #41 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
 


We all.........well almost all iron sideways!  It may be the proper way!
If this doesn't start at 15:50, then go there!

You're right! Maybe we should tell the persons who are designing the irons...

post #42 of 43

Skis got wider, but irons didn't keep up with the trend?    No really that's pretty much the way I have always run them.

post #43 of 43

A bit more on the subject.

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