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waxing iron question...

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
since i am poor from my recent ski purchase, im using an old iron my parents no longer need. so what is the best setting to iron wax at? the wool? or cotton setting? those seem to be the lower ones... this is an ancient iron.. one of those lime green ones.. ICK.. hehe
post #2 of 18
I assume the iron has a slide (infinitely adjustable) type temperature selector? Wool is probably too low while cotton might be a little on the hot side. As you move the iron down the ski it should leave about 4-5" of lolten wax behind it. As you are ironing the bottom you should often check the temperature of the top of the ski. If it starts getting warm from the ironing it is too hot.

In your case another rule of thumb is to watch the wax as you melt/drip it onto the ski. If the wax is smoking the iron is too hot and you should turn it down a bit.
post #3 of 18
start as low as possible and slowly increase the heat until the wax melts. Then increase a little more. When the iron begins to smoke, back off.. that's probably about the right temp. Then mark the dial for that specific type of wax.
post #4 of 18
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PowderJunkie:
If it starts getting warm from the ironing it is too hot.


Actually, I was told that this is exactly what was supposed to happen. The top should be warm to the touch, but NOT HOT to the touch.

Certainly I've set my iron to about the lowest possible setting while waxing, and the top skin will STILL get warm, so I don't think it's even avoidable.

Any opinions from anyone else?
post #5 of 18
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Terrapin:

Actually, I was told that this is exactly what was supposed to happen. The top should be warm to the touch, but NOT HOT to the touch.


Yes. I agree. But I certainly back off as the top begins to feel warm. Makes me nervous heating a sandwich of layers that was originally bonded under heat and preassure.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ March 08, 2002 10:51 AM: Message edited 1 time, by PowderJunkie ]</font>
post #6 of 18
Yes, but the heat and pressure used to bond any real ski is far beyond what you could do just by waxing your ski. You'd have to stick that iron on their for about 10 minutes before any structural damage took place (bubbling the base, that's another story )
post #7 of 18
Thread Starter 
yes the iron is really old with a tiny dial on the side with numbers and letters on it.

i set the setting between cotton and wool.. i noticed wool was too low and moved it up a tiny bit seemed to help so i just stayed there.

i put a coat of wax on.. and when it cooled for some reason it dried in thick lines almost.. like it was already structured.. but i didnt even scrape or anything.. my thinking is that this is from the holes on the bottom of the iron.. the holes are kinda tapered to the base. they are not just straight holes.. but is this a problem when the wax doesnt go on evenly but kinda streaks..??

i did wax until the tops just got warm then backed off and moved on to the next section... they have cooled and i have not done anything else with them.. am i ready to go or should i give it another ironing to really get the wax into the new bases???
post #8 of 18
I've been studying this for some time and did some research on it.

Top of ski heat... Skis are not going to break down under our iron's heat, especially after the ski was put together with a lot more heat than we produce in our irons. Let the ski get warm but not hot is the best advice. About right is the temperature of water you'd wash your hands in without saying, "Yikes!"

Iron temperatures- These can vary. I have one iron at setting 3.5 which is right. I have another iron at 2.5. At 2.75 this puppy is terrible!!!! Probably a bummer of an iron. Anyway, ...

Get a digital thermometer at Kitchen Kaboodle or wherever. Lay it across your iron and set the iron for 248°. This is the optimum temperature for warm temp wax absorbtion rate. It is also the temp where you won't melt the base of your ski at a slow walk as you make your passes down your ski.

I learned this at the Toko waxing clinic a few years ago. They even gave us the charts on absorbtion rates.

I make 3 passes on each ski and wait 10 minutes to let the ski cool down a bit. That is one set. I do this again 3 to 5 sets. It's not how much wax you use but how often you wax. Each pass opens up the pores of the base and pulls more wax inside. I've seen the pictures of this. It's neat!

Some have said, "Bob, you don't need to do it that many times." Well, the results are great! My customers have raved about the wax jobs I've done for them.

I'm sure there are many good ways to wax. This way has worked for me extremely well. I explain it all at lacyslatherworks.com bob's ski page. And it's free! Well... I will accept a season pass to Vail, a fifth of Black Jack Daniels, and all the beans I can eat!
post #9 of 18
I used to use my iron but found it didn't hold a constant temperature very well. I understand that's something quite common with irons. I didn't want to take chances any more so I just sprang for the Toko mouse.
post #10 of 18
As much waxing and work I do I should get a Toko iron, but it's either that or new liners for my boots. I'll throw for the liners first. Priorities... right?
post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
after waxing.. i just realized the base of my iron isnt flat... it made it really tought to get an even heating of the wax without laying it on thick..

i did notice it pulling the wax in. since i used so much wax as i went back n fourth it became a thinner and thinner layer.. and no it wasnt dripping off the edge of the ski.. fairly clean process actually no need for new papers or anything.
post #12 of 18
Maybe the ski isn't flat. Next time you have all, and I mean all the wax off the skis use a straight edge with a flashlight behind about a foot or two. You may see light shining through. a little bit is ok. Usually you'll see this in the shovel area and tail area. if your light is too close and you have white or clear bases the light might reflect through the base, giving you a false reading that the base is concave when it isn't. Hold the light back a couple of feet. Also, try puting the straight edge or true bar along one edge, then swing the bar slowly around until it is perpendicular to the ski. if it catches anywhere it mey be concaved or convexed. Do this in the trouble areas- shovel and tail.
post #13 of 18
Sounds like it's time to send that old iron into the shop for a stone grinding and structuring! : Just joking!

Actually, I did take a flat file to take the edge off my iron since it was a bit high, then ran it over some sand paper followed by emery paper to smooth it.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ March 13, 2002 06:44 PM: Message edited 1 time, by yuki ]</font>
post #14 of 18
Yuki, well may you laugh but I've seen somebody actually do this. Well ok, not quite, but they did flatten their iron and removed the gunk on the bottom. Best way is to get a piece of glass and tape some "wet and dry" paper to it. Rub the iron base on it and you will have a clean, flat iron.
post #15 of 18
Buy a decent iron--Tognar tools.
post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 
i've been reading about the concavity of atomic beta ride skis.. but i dont think it was the ski this time.. its the iron cuz i when i scraped the ski it scraped well. i took the scraper to the iron and theres a huge gap between the middle of the scraper and the iron which there wasnt on the ski..

i will try to pick up an iron now that the end of the season is here.. they should be going on clearance i hope..
post #17 of 18
Pete: That's darned near what I did. The iron had a high edge all the way around, so I used a flat file to break the edge down.

Then I put heavy grit paper on the basement floor to relieve the file marks followed by #200 fine emery paper to smooth it out.

When you have a ski budget that rivals many third world countries .... jr. racer and I have something like 3/4 pairs of skis each, you have to LOOK LIKE you are saving money so that you can get away with a little more around the edges.

Hell, the WAX that goes on the skis ranges from $70 to $100 a bar .... if my wife ever does a true audit it's gonna hit the fan.

All she has to see is a Swix or Tongar out in the garage ..... What she don't know ...
post #18 of 18
Also remember that the ski can reverse camber when you wax, due to the heat.
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