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Variable thickness base edge

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

Hi guys, 

 

I wonder if I've screwed up my skis. There are areas where the edge height differs a bit, almost like it gradually wobbles the length of the ski. It may have something to do with how I've been running my base flattener along the base whenever I've made a gouge (to flatten the gouge down). At some point when the flattener seemed to be touching the metal edges, I used my base edge guide and file to take down the base edges... 

 

Is this important enough to worry about? 

 

Is this fixable at a shop, and does it take a special type of request to have it fixed?

post #2 of 6
I think pictures would help. I can see that a general gradual difference front to back wouldn't hurt a thing, but washboards is another matter.

People should really just get over worrying about most base dings.
post #3 of 6
I agree that photos would probably help. I also wonder whether what you've got is good evidence of why one should avoid touching the base unless it's really necessary. I can only imagine how tempted I would be to fuss with mine if I had such a tool. I hope I'm wrong, though.

So, how many times have you used the base flattener on the skis? Any estimate of the amount of difference in thickness? And have you noticed changes in the skis' performance?
post #4 of 6
It is difficult to make a base wavey if you are using the edges as a guide. That said i would first look to see if the base high material moves up and down when when you press on it. If it does you have the base lifting from the core of the ski. I've seen this happen on a used set of SLR's I purchased. I managed a partial fix until I found a replacement for them.

I agree that a photo or two would be a great help.
post #5 of 6

A shop should be able to stone grind them back into shape.

 

For the future, you don't need to worry about gouge's in the base P-tex. You don't need perfect bases. Just make sure most of the base is flat so your 1* base guide slides true. I very rarely get the full base flat tip to tail edge to edge.

 

I use the Medium ruby stone in the ski visions base flattener may be 10-12 times down the base then use the 1* guide to only knock off any spots in the metal edge. only push the guide do not put downward pressure on it.

 

Your not supposed to be changing the base angle. only knocking off the high spots so they don't scratch your wax iron. I only use the base flattener before I wax.  I use the flattener,then use the file guides to set the edge angle at 3*, then base 1* guide to knock off the high spots, then wax.

post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metaphor_ View Post
 

Hi guys, 

 

I wonder if I've screwed up my skis. There are areas where the edge height differs a bit, almost like it gradually wobbles the length of the ski. It may have something to do with how I've been running my base flattener along the base whenever I've made a gouge (to flatten the gouge down). At some point when the flattener seemed to be touching the metal edges, I used my base edge guide and file to take down the base edges... 

 

Is this important enough to worry about? 

 

Is this fixable at a shop, and does it take a special type of request to have it fixed?


Are you talking about checking in the plastic base from steel scraping?  I don't understand your edge height wobbles deal.  That sounds like bad tuning.  When scraping with the steel any contact with a burred edge will cause a bounce.  As you say as soon as you feel it hit the edge you work the edge again.  That's good.  Sometimes the ski is getting old and some checking will be unavoidable.

 

Is the flattener steel or stone?  Stone can still bounce over a burred edge at the plastic side of the steel edge where it meets the plastic.

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