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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › What file to buy if I want to change side edge bevels?
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What file to buy if I want to change side edge bevels?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

I've read so many threads but some say use a bastard file, some say use a progression of 2-3 files.. I just want to be able to change my side edge bevel from 2 or 3 degrees and back again if needed. I'm placing an order on race-werks.com so if you can just tell me exactly what to buy on that site that would be great :)


I do a search for bastard file because that's the file most mentioned in older threads but only one choice comes up and there's dozens of other files? I just don't want to order the wrong thing. I have ordered 100, 200 and 400 grit diamond stones, 88 and 87 deg guides, sidewall cutter, arkansas stone and gummi so all i'm missing is the file(s). Thanks!

post #2 of 7
Typically you use a bastard file to change angles then polish/refine with other files. Second cut and Fine files aren't really ment for changing the angles. I'm sure you can but it will take longer and shorten the life of the file.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

So this would do the job for setting side angles? http://www.race-werks.com/vallorbe-icecut-file-5-inch-bastard-cut/


And if I have 100, 200, and 400 grit moonstones, would I still need a second cut and/or fine files?

post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 

brainfart, i meant to say moonflex diamond stones :)

post #5 of 7
We knew what you meant..
post #6 of 7
The reason for the progression of metal files is that the coarse/bastard file leaves pronounced grooves you'll want to smooth out. A 100 grit diamond file would do it but would take a lot longer than a finer metal file. So I'd recommend following the coarse/bastard file with a medium/second cut metal file, followed by 100 or 200 grit and 400 grit moonflex files. If I were doing it I'd use a fine cut file before the diamond stones and finish with a 600 grit moonstone and an Arkansas stone, but that's just because I like shiny things. rolleyes.gif
post #7 of 7

Intital 2 passes at 1 degree over your final edge angle with a Panzer file.   http://www.artechski.com/holmenkol-cross-file-mini-panzar-4-inch/


Then final side edge angle with a 13 TPC file   http://www.artechski.com/holmenkol-crystal-finish-racing-file-4-inch-13tpcm/


There is also a 15 TPC File you can use as a 2nd cut file after the 13, . 



For Base edge :  http://www.artechski.com/holmenkol-crystal-finish-racing-file-6-inch-18-tpcm/



And contrary to others, the ONLY time I use a 100 Grit Diamond is to smooth damaged ares on the edge. 


You can diamond stone a newly filed edge starting at 200 then 400 (600 is optional)and then hone with a ceramic or I like a Surgical stone. 


then remove hanging burr. the x-tra hard blue gummi with ZERO pressure down edge point at a 45.


Step 8 – setting the side edge angle – Now, you are ready to dive in to the steel. Most folks are running a 3 degree side edge angle today for all skis; some younger racers (J6 thru J4) may also be running a 2 degree side, which is OK, too. I like to make 1 or 2 passes with a 5 to 7 degree angle using a cross (panzer) file along the whole length of the edge; this allows the top corner of the steel to blend nicely with the sidewall. Next, begin sharpening your side edges using the cross (panzer) file and 1 degree more than you intend to run – use a 4 degree if you intend to finish with a 3. When you have a sharp ski from tip to tail, move to a mid or small sized file with the final angle you want, and continue sharpening. The process of finishing the side edge is designed to continually smooth out the previous work, leaving you with a nice smooth, grippy edge. I like to make a few passes with a middle grit diamond file next, of course attached to the file guide. This will really soften the rough effect that the file has left. I usually do this freehand, with light to medium pressure. Now you are ready to really put the edge on – use your Arkansas or ceramic stone with your file guide, and begin working the side edge steel back and forth until it is extremely smooth and sharp. At this point in a new ski prep, I will take an Arkansas or ceramic stone and lightly pass it along the base edge to cut the “curl” of steel that has developed from all this filing.  A light pass on the edge point at a 45 degree angle with NO Pressure your gummi block will finish the edge off, and you should have a very sharp, smooth edge that is ready to ski. 

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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › What file to buy if I want to change side edge bevels?