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Changing Wax-Question

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
I thought I'd get a jump on waxing for a beer league race later this week-- used Swix LF8. Now it looks like LF10 is going to be the correct wax (40+ degrees f). Is there a special process that I need to follow to change/re-wax (hot scrape?) or can I just iron on the LF10 and scrape/brush? Your advice is appreciated. I know I'm over thinking this, but would like to know. Thanks!
post #2 of 15

Brush them good, iron on the LF 10, scrape and brush but don't polish.

 

Then you could polish them, wax and scrape with HF10bd, iron out some cera F and finish with liquid cera F between runs.

This way you can put at least $25 worth of wax on yours skis and go about .03% faster than plain LF10.

Better to spend it on beer.

post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks Dakine. You're right, but it gives me something to do. Much more fun than going to the office.
post #4 of 15

Might want to try some base cleaner first if you haven't done that in a while.

post #5 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by epic View Post
 

Might want to try some base cleaner first if you haven't done that in a while.


my understanding is that you want to keep the bases away from that stuff, unless you have to fix a deep scratch or something...?

 

doesn't it remove wax to well, wax that took tens of hot waxing to put in there?

post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by razie View Post
 


my understanding is that you want to keep the bases away from that stuff, unless you have to fix a deep scratch or something...?

 

doesn't it remove wax to well, wax that took tens of hot waxing to put in there?


Some think the Swix product is not too aggressive.

As I remember , Dominator Tom says stay away.

I think it can be useful for skis that have so soaked with hi fluro that you can't get it off and want to start again without a grind.

post #7 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakine View Post
 

 

I think it can be useful for skis that have so soaked with hi fluro that you can't get it off and want to start again without a grind.

good point - I understand WC techs use to hot scrape after HF racing/training, to keep them clean of F's

post #8 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by razie View Post
 

good point - I understand WC techs use to hot scrape after HF racing/training, to keep them clean of F's


I use this stuff. It seems to help. Without it I eventually end up with a whitish haze that won't go away. This stuff is a cleaner, not a wax remover.

 

http://www.swixracing.us/Products/Wax-Tuning/Removers-Care-Products/Base-Cleaner-Aerosol-70-ml

post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by epic View Post


I use this stuff. It seems to help. Without it I eventually end up with a whitish haze that won't go away. This stuff is a cleaner, not a wax remover.

http://www.swixracing.us/Products/Wax-Tuning/Removers-Care-Products/Base-Cleaner-Aerosol-70-ml
interesting - haven't used that. Just soft steel brush every time and hot scrape when steel pulls some dirt...

The citrus wax remover is awesome for cleaning diamond stones...
post #10 of 15
A little late to the party, but here's my 2 bits...

Residual colder range wax is't that big of a deal. Brush out w/ bronze or even stiff nylon and you are good to go. LF8 is already pretty soft and won't be difficult to remove.

40F temperature will likely create some wet snow. For a fast, cheap, and convenient alternative on wet snow rub some Zardoz Notwax over your LF8. Therefore, no need to spend the dinero on the LF 10. Good for 2 runs but easy to apply. You can also cork in some Dominator Butter, which will last longer and will be marginally faster- but more $.

IMO, the time to ensure you do a thorough job of removing wax is to remove warm temp wax when the weather takes a dive into the fridgid zone. LF8 will act like velcro at 0F. The OP probably knows this but maybe it will help someone else reading the thread...
post #11 of 15
If your structure is practically worn off, all this waxing isn't going to help much.
post #12 of 15

Switch to Dominator all temperature Race Zoom you'll never have this happen again!:D

post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by razie View Post


interesting - haven't used that. Just soft steel brush every time and hot scrape when steel pulls some dirt...

The citrus wax remover is awesome for cleaning diamond stones...


Take it with a grain of salt, but my understanding is that the knock against hot scrapes is that some of the black "dirt" that you are scraping off is actually base material. I figured it couldn't hurt to try this stuff and it does seem like my wax has been better this year. I only use it a few times a year.

post #14 of 15
A few times a year??? Personally, I like three seasons worth of waxing on my bases. How dirty is the area you're skiing??
post #15 of 15

To be fair that's on multiple pairs of skis, can't say I've really kept track, but like I said above, all of those flouros on the race ski start to leave this hazy mess that is hard to deal with and the cleaner gets rid of it.

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