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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › proper setup of xentrix 310 bindings.
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proper setup of xentrix 310 bindings.

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Hello!

I recently picked up my first set of skis. I've used nothing but rental skis, and picked up an inexpensive set of skis I can use to learn on (be it skiing techniques, maintaining, etc).

I had a rough go of it, in terms of feeling out the skis. There's multiple factors that were at play, but the one I'm most interested in is setup of the bindings.

I'm as green as they come to any sort of tuning, setup, etc. I've done quite a bit of reading and feel I have a decent grab on basics, but my instincts tell me something may not be right.

The bindings are xentrix 310. No worries, date code on heel piece is 2004, and they're not cracking.

I don't have my own boots yet, but do use rentals at the local resort. The boots are head ays. I use a size 11 (29.5), sole is 329mm.i set the length to 330mm, took few turns with the fine adjustment screw, and they seemed OK (never fell out lol). DIN at 7.

There's also a toe height setting. at max height, the boots were tight to the binding on the bottom. A spec I had found on the ultra reliable Internet was 0.50mm gap is proper toe height. This measurement is under the front sole/din plate to the apparent spot on the binding. Are the boots just too big for the skis? Have I sourced incorrect knowledge?

If there's a manual for these bindings, I couldn't find it. I'm good at figuring things out (ase master tech, blah blah blah). If you have ideas, a manual, anything, I'm all ears. I'd rather know this is correct before proceeding to other aspects of my issue (which is another topic at some point).

Thanks!
post #2 of 16

Given your level of experience, take them to a shop. Even if you set your own DIN have a shop test them to be sure the release values are correct.It is a problem that you are renting boots since the wear on each pair will be different so the toe height adjustment will be a little different. Do you know how to determine the correct forward pressure on that binding. I don't, but each binding has some kind of indicator.  You can't tell just by the fact that the boot seems to fit. Did you use a DIN chart to select the DIN?  Hopefully when you rent boots the shop will check the forward pressure and toe height for you. Better yet get some boots--by far the most important piece of gear to buy rather than rent.

post #3 of 16
Thread Starter 
I used the chart for DIN.

As far as forward pressure goes, I couldn't find any info on this, as it pertains to this binding. There is some indicator on the toe piece, however it's controlled by a dial. Something else I have no clue what it does. I'm working on the boots, and understand this will make life easier.

I intend to hit a shop this weekend, but just trying to learn right from wrongs, ultimately want to do it all my self. THANKS!

Side note - it blows my mind that I found a set of highly regarded skis for their Era (atomic 9.18 170cm) but found absolutely no info on the stock bindings (other than the recall). Maybe then users tossed em out early on.
post #4 of 16

OK, I know the bindings intimately!

 

 You must be sure the binding base plates are mounted in the correct holes on the riser plate for your boot sole length. Usually 2 or 3 mounting points in front and 2 or 3 in rear. They should be marked for Boot Sole Length in MM. 

 

 The toe-piece must be set in the "All-Around" (variozone ADJUSTMENT)  i THINK THE 310'S ONLY HAVE 3 POSITIONS AVAILABLE.,

 

First slide the toe-piece into the toe plate and set to "All Around".  You have to push the little knob at the front of the toepiece to the side to get the toe to slide in the track and lift the steel connecting band over the plastic stop towards the center, back of the  toe plate track.

 

NOw you need to slide the heel piece into the heel track. Line up the marks for a 329  you can go either way, but the manual  says to go to next lower place on the scale which would be 320 (If memory serves me they are 10MM increments) Hook the bands together lining up the screw holes

 

Now install the AFD plate into the steel bands. 

 

To set the forward pressure the heel piece adjustment screw at the bottom of the rear of the heel piece should be FLUSH with the housing  housing when the boot is locked into the binding. BUT DO NOT ADJUST THE HEEL FORWARD PRESSURE WITH THE BOOT IN THE BINIDNG. 

 

You must lock the boot in, check the screw and then remove the boot and adjust the screw in and or out  (probably move the heel back furhter if you set it to 320mm. Keep adjusting and removing replacing boot until screww is flush with housing. . Then remove boot and turn screw in 1 or 2 clicks. 

 

Next you must adjust the toe height. There must be .5mm gap between the the bott sole and the AFD plate. I have actual Atomic cards that are made for this purpose, but any credit card will do!

 

Plae a credit card on teh AFD plate and lock the boot in the binding. Pull back on the front of the boot cuff a couple of times and try to pull the credit card out. You shoulkd have to use a little bit of force to remove the CREDIT card.  AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE CARD AND SLIP IT BACK UNDER THE BOOT WHILE TH BOOT IS LOCKED IN. 

 

IF THE CARD COMES OUT WAY TOO EASILY OR  TOO MUCH EFFORT IS NEEDED YOU MUST ADJUST THE TOE HEIGHT., WITH THE OBVIOUS SCREW ON TOP OF THE TOE PIECE. 

IF TOO LOOSE, REMOVE BOOT, REPLACE CREDIT CARD , LOCK BOOT IN, PULL BACK ON BOOT CUFF AND TURN SCREW TO TIGHTEN A FEW TURNS. PULL BOOT CUFF BACK, TRY TO PULL OUT CREDIT CARD.  KEEP  REPEATING THIS PROCESS UNTIL (BOOT OUT THEN LOCKED IN AND PULL BACK ON CUFF, TRY TO PULL CREDIT CARD) UNTIL YOU CAN PULL CREDIT CARD OUT BUT NEED TO USE A BIT OF FORCE TO PULL IT OUT. You should feel a fair amount of friction on both sides of card (Boot and AFD)

 

Next Adjust DIN. with Boot in locked in Binding. 

 

Screw in very front of Toe-piece and upper Screw at Back of Heel adjust DIN Setting. 

 

QUESTIONS???

 

 

BY THE WAY, THEY WORK EXACTLY THE SAME AS ATOMIC  Race 3.10 , 4.12, 6.14, 10.18, Atomic Xentrix & CR 3.10 4.12 6.14 

 

All  mount and adjust the same!


Edited by Atomicman - 2/6/15 at 5:08pm
post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
Awesome info, thanks!

What does the dial/screw forward of the toe height screw but back (and up) from the DIN screw do?
post #6 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsvob03 View Post

Awesome info, thanks!

What does the dial/screw forward of the toe height screw but back (and up) from the DIN screw do?

I believe the one you are talking about only flips 1/4 left or right. 

 

It adjusts upward release of the toe. 

 

When the window turns yellow, it allows upward release. 

 

Window turns RED, upward release is locked out!


Edited by Atomicman - 2/6/15 at 5:06pm
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
Alright.

Took a now educated look at what I had, and wow was it off. (By the way I've picked up a set of boots to enable me to set things up).

I clicked the boots in (330mm sole), and when taking a look at the forward pressure screw saw it was falling out of the binding. As in, the heel portion was hanging over the binding mounts/plates, and there was nothing to support the metal rail piece, and therefore nothing to provide forward pressure, aside from the base 330 setting! I looked and looked. Wondered if something was missing. During my 'search' I saw the center line of the boot was 31mm behind the center line of the ski!

From there, I removed the mounts/plates and no redrilling had been done. I went to the store, got some urethane, drilled, filled, and moved the toe portion forward to compensate. I'm not sure why the heel was falling out. If they designed it to be adjustable to 340, it should have been. Maybe a bad initial drilling and because it was for someone with a size 7, it was never an issue?

Whatever the case, my forward toe pressure is now correct, toe height correct DIN remains at 7. I feel now that I can ski my setup, and for the most part I can feel out the skis in there current tune (wherever that is, before I get them set for my skill level.

Many thanks for the input!
post #8 of 16
Thread Starter 
Nothing but fantastic results on the slopes. Thanks again.
post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsvob03 View Post

Nothing but fantastic results on the slopes. Thanks again.

:beercheer:Thumbs Up

post #10 of 16

You should not have to drill holes to make your boots fit. My BSL is 346 mm, I have 9 pair of Atomic skis with 412 or 614 bindings (same as yours, just higher DIN) and I have never had to drill holes. As Atomicman mentioned the there is a for/aft adjustment for the toe that should be in the center position. It is the same lever that must be pushed to slide the toe out of the binding track. Once the toe is out remove the three screws that hold the front binding track in place, get a wet rag and brush the area under the binding track. there should be several sets of three holes for/aft. Next to the holes should be < or > with a number next to it. Find which number applies to your BSL be it more > than the number or < less than the number. Attach the track using the correct set of holes. No way you should have to drill holes for a 330 BSL, I have never done that for mine.

 

As suggested you should really take them to a shop to check your work, you are risking broken bones or worse, damaged or severed ACL.

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertRS View Post
 

You should not have to drill holes to make your boots fit. My BSL is 346 mm, I have 9 pair of Atomic skis with 412 or 614 bindings (same as yours, just higher DIN) and I have never had to drill holes. As Atomicman mentioned the there is a for/aft adjustment for the toe that should be in the center position. It is the same lever that must be pushed to slide the toe out of the binding track. Once the toe is out remove the three screws that hold the front binding track in place, get a wet rag and brush the area under the binding track. there should be several sets of three holes for/aft. Next to the holes should be < or > with a number next to it. Find which number applies to your BSL be it more > than the number or < less than the number. Attach the track using the correct set of holes. No way you should have to drill holes for a 330 BSL, I have never done that for mine.

 

As suggested you should really take them to a shop to check your work, you are risking broken bones or worse, damaged or severed ACL.

That may not be true. Depends on what plate is on his skis. If it is the old Beta Carv 9.18 it is from 2001-02. The plate back then may not have had multiple predrilled holes in the plate. Can't remember

 

In fact I think the old carving plates (I think I still have some laying around here) , were not predrilled like the more current race plates and may have needed a jig to drill them properly.

 

I am pretty sure the reason is that ski was setup to use the Atomic  DEVICE binding not the Xentrix bindings. The DEVICE was adjusted in the center and the toe and heel moved out from the center, by hooking together 2 bands that had a graduated scale on each band that you matched up to corresponding  the BSL: on each. quite a different setup from the Xentrix, Race & CR' series 


Edited by Atomicman - 2/8/15 at 5:00pm
post #12 of 16
Thread Starter 
Atomicman is correct. I tried to post earlier, but my phone wasn't cooperating with me on the pictures...

Here's a shot of the toe track. Only 1 set of holes. removal showed no other holes underneath.



Heres where the adjustment is made. its under a removable plate.



Further away now...





with all installed and in the "allround" position (Something im excited to try once im comfortable and used to the setup)




and lastly a picture, without the boot installed, of the rear binding. shows that the heel piece is flush (or very very close to it). slide that piece back 30mm and that's where it sat before drilling. the metal track would get pushed downward due to the force of the spring. once the boots snap in, that screw goes flush.





Nevertheless, I still intend to take this setup to a pro shop to verify my DIN readings are correct, and also will be having base/side angles checked set in the future.
post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsvob03 View Post

Atomicman is correct. I tried to post earlier, but my phone wasn't cooperating with me on the pictures...

Here's a shot of the toe track. Only 1 set of holes. removal showed no other holes underneath.



Heres where the adjustment is made. its under a removable plate.



Further away now...





with all installed and in the "allround" position (Something im excited to try once im comfortable and used to the setup)




and lastly a picture, without the boot installed, of the rear binding. shows that the heel piece is flush (or very very close to it). slide that piece back 30mm and that's where it sat before drilling. the metal track would get pushed downward due to the force of the spring. once the boots snap in, that screw goes flush.





Nevertheless, I still intend to take this setup to a pro shop to verify my DIN readings are correct, and also will be having base/side angles checked set in the future.

Be sure to have the tuned to 1 base edge and 3 side edge. You'll be in ski Nirvana! :D

post #14 of 16

Well OK I stand corrected, but all of my Atomic's have two or three sets of holes. Maybe mine are all new than those.

post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertRS View Post
 

Well OK I stand corrected, but all of my Atomic's have two or three sets of holes. Maybe mine are all new than those.

Yes indeed!

 

Different ski with different bindings. 

 

Like I said, those skis were setup at the factory for the Device binding which mounts differently

post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 
I can say for sure the skis are 01-02, heel pieces are 2004. If I had to guess the rest of the bindings are from 01-02.

I'm happy with my purchase.
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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › proper setup of xentrix 310 bindings.