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Swix Universal Stone

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 

I've been using this to smooth the bottom of my ski edges as a daily/whenever I remember tune up.  Is that what it is intended for?  I'm using almost no pressure and keeping it flat, it seems to make the edge smooth from minor flaws.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

 

post #2 of 16
Thread Starter 

This probably should be in tuning.  I forgot there was a subforum.

 

Mod note: moved

post #3 of 16
You're using it on the base edge? You need to spend more time in the tuning forum!!!! All edge work is done on the side edge. Why, you ask? Because if you are working on the base edge, you are increasing the bevel angle, ultimately slowing down the engagement of the edge. And, worst of all, the only way to fix this will be a stone grind, shortening the life of your skis. There are hundreds of threads here on tuning. And Jacques is sure to post a video or three.
post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 

Yeah I've read quite a bit, but between the multitude of stones and descriptions I guess I didn't quite get it.  With this stone I'd think I'd have to do it hundreds of times to have much effect.  I'll keep reading.

 

Thank you,

 

-Mike

post #5 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by soporific View Post
 

Yeah I've read quite a bit, but between the multitude of stones and descriptions I guess I didn't quite get it.  With this stone I'd think I'd have to do it hundreds of times to have much effect.  I'll keep reading.

 

Thank you,

 

-Mike


From what you described, I don't see any harm.  Not sure on the Swix, but white should be a fine diamond stone (600 grit).  Rubbing the base edge flat will remove the burrs at the plastic metal edge interface.

This is good. 

 

True, the main resharpening work is from the side edge, but don't worry about smoothing your base edge a bit with a fine stone.  Better smooth than burred for a base edge.  Unless you work it to death your angle will be fine.   Keep working it and after some time you will never need a "shop" again and your skiing should improve as well with good tuning.

post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 

I believe I'm doing exactly what you are saying.

 

Thanks for the response Jacques!

post #7 of 16
Sib, the stone can be held with an edge angle just like a file. There are times when it's entirely appropriate to touch up the base edge.

Bevels... I like my wider off piste skis tuned to 1.5/3. Piste stuff, 1/3. General duty work skis 1/2.
post #8 of 16
Sure, it's fine to take off high bits, but not do it after each time you ski as a matter of course. Better to tell someone who is just starting to never do it than let them do it all the time.. Unless you're trying to sell them new skis.
post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by soporific View Post
 

I believe I'm doing exactly what you are saying.

 

Thanks for the response Jacques!


You're welcome.  Many get too freaked out about "touching" the base edge.  You want a ski that behaves and can be playful.  Don't listen to the never touch base edge camp.  Smooth is smooth and not nasty!  Take out the nasty noise with the stone.

 

Here is a long video(s) about what you are doing and waxing too.

 

post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 

I'm kind of going after these things here.

 

.

post #11 of 16
It's okay to take off "up" bits, as long as you are not taking the base edge down to meet the dings/valleys.
post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by soporific View Post

I'm kind of going after these things here.

.
For that, I'd start on the side edge with a guide and a 400 or 600 diamond stone. The scratches on the base edge are longitudinal, so I wouldn't try to smooth them out; instead I'd put a 600 diamond stone in a base guide and gradually work the area back and forth with light pressure until nothing sharp is sticking out.
post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 

Jacques said the stone I have is probably about 600, so I think Bob's my uncle.

post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by litterbug View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by soporific View Post

I'm kind of going after these things here.

.
For that, I'd start on the side edge with a guide and a 400 or 600 diamond stone. The scratches on the base edge are longitudinal, so I wouldn't try to smooth them out; instead I'd put a 600 diamond stone in a base guide and gradually work the area back and forth with light pressure until nothing sharp is sticking out.
I just enlarged the picture, and it doesn't look like there's much sticking out from the base edge. So very light touch, and don't think of smoothing the scratches, just making sure nothing sticking straight out.
post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusky View Post

It's okay to take off "up" bits, as long as you are not taking the base edge down to meet the dings/valleys.


Exactamoundo!   Don't over do the base edge.  Just buff off the parts that make noise!  Husky is truth on this point.  Well said.

post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 

I was pretty much just feeling with a finger and then running the stone over lightly.  I did have a spot tonight that looked like a curling wave which came out quickly.  I guess I am trying to say that I'm not trying to reshape the edge, but just smooth it.

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