1--Your a-frame needs alignment. You haven't done that. What needs to be done is to either grind the soles of your boots or put wedges under your bindings so your knees are directly above the center of your feet. Cuff alignment is NOT canting, regardless of what the boot maker labels it. Custom footbeds are valuable, but they aren't alignment, either.
Here's an example of how important this is...these Nordica (and identical Tecnica) race boots have soles that must be ground before they'll fit into bindings, so they can be ground to align the racer who owns the boots. The soles have yellow warning labels about the need to be ground to DIN spec before skiing.
Here's your alignment test. On a smooth, even shallow green run, ski straight 45° to the fall line, to the right on one ski. Without effort to hold the line, do you ski straight? Same line, change feet. Ski straight? Try it 45° to the fall line the other way. One ski at a time. Ski straight on each ski? Now straight down this near-flat slope, one ski at a time. Ski straight? I didn't think so. You need to be aligned (not cuff alignment, not footbeds.)
2--After getting aligned, and skiing some to remove your overcompensation movements, you can do away with your excessive heel kick-out. That works on groomers, but not in any other conditions.
3--For your lazy hands, try the two pole drag drill with counter.
--Step 1...put your hands out in the skiing position, press both poles hard down into the snow, and keep both hard down into the snow as you ski along making turns.
--Step 2...Continue Step 1 but add counter. As you make the turn, rotate your body toward the outside of the turn so your outside pole tip, still dragging hard in the snow, ends up along side your outside boot heel, and your inside pole tip, dragging hard in the snow, ends up near your inside ski tip.
----Repeat this many, many times until you're doing it right and your mind wanders and you're thinking of other things. Now you can quit the drag but maintain the movement.