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Newb Roto brushing questions

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 

looking at getting two roto brushes... one for initial cleanup of ski pre-wax, one for post waxing.

 

having read threads here and watching videos, I'm looking at a toko brass brush or sks brass horsehair brush for initial cleaning, and then the grey nylon toko for post wax.

 

 

good route?  or should i be looking at a different choice for either task?

 

I'm an advanced casual skier...no racing etc.  but trying to do better job maintaing my skis.

post #2 of 25

I started with a horsehair roto for post-scraping.  I haven't had any regrets about that.

 

I bought a steel roto for major base structure work, which I use rarely, but to good effect.

 

My normal pre-wax brush is a garden variety brass hand brush from Tognar.  I find that I don't need to go hog-wild with this step and have never considered going roto.

 

Your situation may vary, of course.

post #3 of 25

I don't brush the bases before I wax, I have a combi brush but I don't think I've ever used it. BTW I bought my set up in 2000.

 

I use Dominator Hyperzoom for my wax. After I make sure the base is fairly flat, I tune the edges, then wax, let them cool, scrape most of the wax off, then brush with a nylon brush for most snow temps. I'll use the horse hair brush for very cold snow. I think I read that in Tognar years ago.

 

You don't need to get all the wax brushed off, it will ski off.

 

Its about getting wax in the base, why would you remove it. Unless you got lots of spring sap on them. 

post #4 of 25

I use a brass/horse hair combo Red Creek Roto which I don't think they make anymore--prewax. 

 

A brass or steel will also work. 

 

Stiff Brown Horsehair, 1st brush after scraping. then a Black or Grey Nylon to finish!


Edited by Atomicman - 1/13/15 at 8:55am
post #5 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carphunter View Post
 

looking at getting two roto brushes... one for initial cleanup of ski pre-wax, one for post waxing.

 

having read threads here and watching videos, I'm looking at a toko brass brush or sks brass horsehair brush for initial cleaning, and then the grey nylon toko for post wax.

 

 

good route?  or should i be looking at a different choice for either task?

 

I'm an advanced casual skier...no racing etc.  but trying to do better job maintaing my skis.


Just forget the Roto!  Scrape well and go hand!  ;)

post #6 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carphunter View Post
 

looking at getting two roto brushes... one for initial cleanup of ski pre-wax, one for post waxing.

 

having read threads here and watching videos, I'm looking at a toko brass brush or sks brass horsehair brush for initial cleaning, and then the grey nylon toko for post wax.

 

 

good route?  or should i be looking at a different choice for either task?

 

I'm an advanced casual skier...no racing etc.  but trying to do better job maintaing my skis.

Go with the tokos, i use them both.  Get a 120mm handle though, it works for 100mm brushes.  Holmenkol does 120mm brushes, comes in handy if your tips/tails are more than 100mm

post #7 of 25

get the Swix quick release handle with the double shaft and no need to swap brushes over...

post #8 of 25

I have the following roto brushes:

 

Steel

brass

horse hair

wild boar hair

short nylon

long nylon

 

I use almost exclusively:

 

Wild boar hair - clean before waxing and first brush after waxing (it removes more debris than the brass or horse hair - the steel is like getting a grind!)

long nylon - polishing

 

I don't like putting metal on my skis with structure (race skis).  It might just be a mental thing with me but my results are solid.

 

My results are based on the roto brushes I have so you might get different results with different brands.

post #9 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carphunter View Post
 

looking at getting two roto brushes... one for initial cleanup of ski pre-wax, one for post waxing.

 

having read threads here and watching videos, I'm looking at a toko brass brush or sks brass horsehair brush for initial cleaning, and then the grey nylon toko for post wax.

 

 

good route?  or should i be looking at a different choice for either task?

 

I'm an advanced casual skier...no racing etc.  but trying to do better job maintaing my skis.

When I get a chance to drop some money on rotobrush, I'm just sticking to nylon only.

 

the brass & horsehair, are easily manageable by hand.

post #10 of 25

Roto brushes have their place but wax removal isn't it.  I'm not saying rotos don't or won't remove wax but not like the same type in an oval brush.  Oval brushes are the work horses and rotos work great for polishing or overlays.

post #11 of 25

I tend to rely on my scrapers for wax removal.

post #12 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
 

I use a brass/horse hair combo Red Creek Roto which I don't think they make anymore--prewax. 

 

 

I'm not sure if it's the exact same as the one you are talking about but SKS makes a combo brass/horse hair roto that you can still buy.

post #13 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xela View Post
 

I tend to rely on my scrapers for wax removal.

Sure, we all do but they only scrape the stuff off the surface.  Brushes remove the rest of it.

post #14 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoJo23 View Post

Roto brushes have their place but wax removal isn't it.  I'm not saying rotos don't or won't remove wax but not like the same type in an oval brush.  Oval brushes are the work horses and rotos work great for polishing or overlays.

Is it possible you are using a brush designed for overlays?
post #15 of 25
I don't like clogging up my pricey rotobrushes with wax, so I use a scraper to get off 95% of it. Then I alternate hand brushes and rotobrushes.
post #16 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoJo23 View Post
 

Roto brushes have their place but wax removal isn't it.  I'm not saying rotos don't or won't remove wax but not like the same type in an oval brush.  Oval brushes are the work horses and rotos work great for polishing or overlays.

Bologna!  Stiff horsehair works great as first brush after scraping!!! And the hell it won't remove wax, what is that pile of white stuff stacking up behind my roto......and no it's not blow! :D 

 

Maybe ya got the roto going the wrong way or you've never used a stiff horsehair????

 

Stiff horsehair does not get clogged up!

post #17 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
 

Bologna!  Stiff horsehair works great as first brush after scraping!!! And the hell it won't remove wax, what is that pile of white stuff stacking up behind my roto......and no it's not blow! :D 

 

Maybe ya got the roto going the wrong way or you've never used a stiff horsehair????

 

Stiff horsehair does not get clogged up!


this!

post #18 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoJo23 View Post
 

I'm not sure if it's the exact same as the one you are talking about but SKS makes a combo brass/horse hair roto that you can still buy.

Thanks, only $53.00 over at Fk-SKS tools! 

 

MIne is about one! Might have to get a new one and it works on my Red Creek axle!

post #19 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotsSkier View Post
 


this!

:D:o

post #20 of 25

Toko/Red Creek Brass, Horsehair and Grey Nylon wors for me for most purposes.

Coarse stainless, coarse bronze and fine steel oval brushes for when I need them.

Others for fluoros.

post #21 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
 

Bologna!  Stiff horsehair works great as first brush after scraping!!! And the hell it won't remove wax, what is that pile of white stuff stacking up behind my roto......and no it's not blow! :D 

 

Maybe ya got the roto going the wrong way or you've never used a stiff horsehair????

 

Stiff horsehair does not get clogged up!

Ok, sense you took what I said as literal, I'll do some splannin fer ya.  

 

I wasn't implying roto brushes don't remove ANY wax BUT their main purpose is not as a first brush post scraping.  If you use rotos post scrape and you're happy with the results, groovy baby, groovy.  BUT that certainly doesn't mean they are the best choice.

post #22 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoJo23 View Post
 

Ok, sense you took what I said as literal, I'll do some splannin fer ya.  

 

I wasn't implying roto brushes don't remove ANY wax BUT their main purpose is not as a first brush post scraping.  If you use rotos post scrape and you're happy with the results, groovy baby, groovy.  BUT that certainly doesn't mean they are the best choice.


You probably choose to use a hand saw instead of a power saw?

 

Fact is, a well prepared ski surface doesn't care how it got there.

Rotos are fast, especially for first brush post scrape.

I'm lazy enough that I use exclusively rotos except for an occasional pass with a fine steel hand brush to really get to the bottom of the structure.

post #23 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoJo23 View Post
 

Ok, sense you took what I said as literal, I'll do some splannin fer ya.  

 

I wasn't implying roto brushes don't remove ANY wax BUT their main purpose is not as a first brush post scraping.  If you use rotos post scrape and you're happy with the results, groovy baby, groovy.  BUT that certainly doesn't mean they are the best choice.

BUNK!

 

THE STIFF HORSEHAIR IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED AS THE FIRST BRUSH AFTER SCRAPING for WAX REMOVAL!

post #24 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakine View Post
 


You probably choose to use a hand saw instead of a power saw?

 

Fact is, a well prepared ski surface doesn't care how it got there.

Rotos are fast, especially for first brush post scrape.

I'm lazy enough that I use exclusively rotos except for an occasional pass with a fine steel hand brush to really get to the bottom of the structure.

Thumbs Up:beercheer:

post #25 of 25

I realize I'm late to the party, but wanted to add my two cents.  I always use a combination of roto brushes and hand brushes.  Typical setup is roto brass pre wax, hand brush with combination brass/horsehair, wax, scrape, roto horsehair (does most of the wax removal), hand brush horsehair, roto long nylon, hand brush with nylon.  While the rotos do most of the heavy lifting, I like the quality consistent finish I get with the hand brush.

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