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bindings length setting question on my new blizzards

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

I just got my new skis today. Blizzard xpower 810 ti with the marker tp12 bindings. Thank you much :)

 

I could just call the shop tomorrow and ask but this has me too curious to wait so I'll put the questions out there for sake of knowing and sake of conversation.

 

The skis were shipped to me and the bindings were mounted for my boot size. They asked me for the mm and also said they have the same boots at the shop as well. I do need to get the din checked and set at my local shop but this  length thing is strange. My boots are 336mm. They do fit in very well and properly to the ski. At least it appears so but something is confusing me. And perhaps one needs to have the same binding to know what I describe (IDK) but for those who don't  I'll try anyway.

 

The reading on the binding for the mm measurement (located before toe binding) is lined up at the 342 mm mark. (about 6 mm too large) as my boots are only 336.  But they do seem to snap in very properly. Is this normal? Is it wrong? Am I not understanding something? Perhaps those marks are not in mm but some other measurement?


Edited by rollin - 1/7/15 at 4:53pm
post #2 of 15

Why didn't you buy a K2?

post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LewyM View Post
 

Why didn't you buy a K2?

lol

To be honest it was a close debate. The xpower a bit stiffer than the 82xti and with sandwhcich construction thought it fair better for my weight and on mostly on piste skiing. and/or carving I like to do.

post #4 of 15

Post deleted because I don't know what I'm talking about.

post #5 of 15
Some company's rulers are different than others. 

You cannot make the final check just by the numbers, you need to look for a forward pressure indicator.  

For my Markers example the screw is supposed to be flush, and on my atomic (system bindings) an arrow is supposed to be between 2 hash marks, but I'm not a tech, and not familiar with your bindings, so I'll leave it for someone smarter than me to answer.

 

Then theoretically to be safe, you're supposed to go get your bindings torque tested, there are other threads that discuss/debate that for the cheapskates.  

If you're going to get tested, then they're also going to adjust your bindings as part of that service anyway.


Edited by raytseng - 1/8/15 at 11:36pm
post #6 of 15

OK--let me post my answer in the form of a question, because I don't actually know this binding. Could it be that the numbers in front of the toe are to set the toe position for a given BSL? In that case the heel position would be set by turning a screw on the back of a heel piece, as on other Markers I do know. If this is the case then it means the binding was mounted 3mm forward . Or perhaps 342 is the closest mark to 336 on that binding/ski? In any case 3mm forward won't make a difference. 

If this Marker is like every other Marker I've seen, the forward pressure/position of the heel piece  is set by turning the screw at the back of the heel piece, which should protrude a few mm with the binding empty and should be flush with the housing with a boot in the binding. But of course they should check that when the DIN is checked.  

post #7 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldgoat View Post
 

OK--let me post my answer in the form of a question, because I don't actually know this binding. Could it be that the numbers in front of the toe are to set the toe position for a given BSL? In that case the heel position would be set by turning a screw on the back of a heel piece, as on other Markers I do know. If this is the case then it means the binding was mounted 3mm forward . Or perhaps 342 is the closest mark to 336 on that binding/ski? In any case 3mm forward won't make a difference. 

If this Marker is like every other Marker I've seen, the forward pressure/position of the heel piece  is set by turning the screw at the back of the heel piece, which should protrude a few mm with the binding empty and should be flush with the housing with a boot in the binding. But of course they should check that when the DIN is checked.  

Start turning screw with the boot out.... check forward pressure with boot in.

post #8 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmpotash View Post
 

Start turning screw with the boot out.... check forward pressure with boot in.

What?  

post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 

Well, I did call the shop yesterday and asked what was up with this. Said the bindings were set to settings underneath. In other words would have to come off the ski to see it. Told me not to be concerned with the topside numbers. and to be honest the boots do snap in very well. Also said (if correct or not IDK) that the number on the side of the boot just depends where exactly they measure it from. Both the front and rear tabs on the boot do extend a tiny bit outwards as they rise up from the very bottom so it is quite possible the 336 on the boot represents the very bottom while 342 may actually be the true length when considering the upper edges of each tab that locks in to the binding. .

 

I can easily adjust the binding to hit the 336 mark and also get the boot snapped in but it is then a very tight fit. The heel of the boot barely drops in.  I know the setting must allow some compensation for ski flexing and expanding so I put the setting back where it was. When at the original setting I set the boot in with the toe then the boot rear drops into the raised binding and sits on the bottom tab of the open rear binding while maintaining about less than 1/4 clearance at the top which seems nromal to me. (That clearance is not there when I set the binding to 336). So I really feel it is correct at the 342 mark. But regardless I'm going to my local shop and have them test the din and of course fill me in on the rest of this guess work.

post #10 of 15

OK, if you're going to the shop, and they aren't overly busy, you should ask them if they can explain how the bindings are setup and visually checked, so you can understand how your own skis work.


Tight or Loose are meaningless.  As mentioned, there are indicators.  You either have it right or you don't have it right.  

post #11 of 15

This should be fine, but you need to make sure the forward pressure is set correctly.  Most Marker bindings have a screw just above the track on the heal piece.  That screw needs to be flush with the housing when the boot is in the binding.  Take the skis to your local shop and have them checked and have them explain what they're doing while they do it.  It shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to check the DIN and forward pressure.  Be sure to take one of your boots.

post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 

I should be doing this tomorrow and I will be asking for some explantions. The shop I am going to is not where I bought the skis but is where I just bought boots. They said (Ithink) 10 bucks to check the binding din resistance but whatever even if its 20 as long as I get my info (for my own future knowledge) and all set up correctly. I'll post how it went.

 

fwiw to "mtcyclist" I do know about that screw but not there on these bindings. Go figure?  At least not one that I am seeing. There is just some sort of square head "plug like" screw in the bottom middle but its always stationary regardless of binding open or not.. anyway, I'm gonna be asking a few questions tomorrow for certain.


Edited by rollin - 1/10/15 at 6:43pm
post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 

And so,

Got it taken care of today. I hope.

 

Firstly (according to this shop, the place that set them was all wrong. Turns out the numbers I am seeing should and actually do match the boot length. They are not prefect exact but they (in the end) set them a hair past 334 (about 335 to take a guess). so I don't understand how that original shop set them up to 342. To recall, my boots are stamped 336 so this does seem more correct.

 

They (this shop today) set my DIN at 8 and also did the force checks and all is now OK according to them. Front and rear releases at that setpoint.  Told me they would have surly released much too early had I left the length at 342 with the same 8 DIN setting. I actually had them set at din of tad over 7 so between that and also the original longer length setting I would have been popping out.

 

As for the screw in the rear bottom, he said these are a little different than other marker bindings. and (when the boot is snapped in) the flat part should be slightly submersed into the binding (not even with it) and the groves (threadlike part) should be what you see sticking out. And after the new settings and release pressure checks were done this is pretty much where the screw like piece now sits when boot is engaged.

 

I don't know how one shop can say one thing and another something different? To be honest all the numbers on the ski and binding seem to be what they actually mean which all "seems" like this place got it right.

 

Had I not had this checked and went skiing and started popping out early I would have just cranked up the DIN and I wonder how wrong that all would have been?

 

In one sence I question which shop was correct and sinse this latest one does actually closer line up with the numbers on the skis and then checks out correct I have to assume its OK now and was not before.  The only thing now I question a tiny bit is that the boot (rear tab) barely slips past the (open) rear binding before resting , where as before there was a little space between the rear boot tab and the binding while the boot rested in the binding. And I thought that there should be some space (perhaps 1/4") before snapping in so I still have "some" small doubt in my head.  But they guy said no that's fine and it all is good now. I just think about the ability for the ski to flex which means it should be able to move the bindings in and out at least a little bit no?  but then I guess if the boot is releasing at the same force as what the DIN number is set than it must be OK.?  As you can see I go back and forth in my head with this. I just want it right.

 

The original shop I bought the skis fromis "Colorado ski shop" which is in VT. and also MA in case anyone is familiar with them. The place that re-set me up today was a "Ski Barn"  a small chain in Jersey and the workers are knowledgeable, especially the gentlemn I dealt with today and was very confident in what they did and when explaining it to me.. 

post #14 of 15

Go with the 2nd shop who actually setup your skis with your boot and tested everything.

The first shop you can't blame because they don't have your boot.  A substitute boot is just a placeholder, they might have a grabbed the wrong model off the wall when they did the setup.

It is the responsibility of the owner to get bindings checked with the actual boot.  That's why there are final adjustments and inspections..They likely skipped the torque test, because it's partially useless test without the real actual boot that's going to be used (like having a dress rehearsal but still not actually dressing up).

 

 

Things are done now.  GO skiing and worry about your skiing.  If you fall or your skis come off, it's probably your technique rather then your equipment!

post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by raytseng View Post
 

Go with the 2nd shop who actually setup your skis with your boot and tested everything.

The first shop you can't blame because they don't have your boot.  A substitute boot is just a placeholder, they might have a grabbed the wrong model off the wall when they did the setup.

It is the responsibility of the owner to get bindings checked with the actual boot.  That's why there are final adjustments and inspections..They likely skipped the torque test, because it's partially useless test without the real actual boot that's going to be used (like having a dress rehearsal but still not actually dressing up).

 

 

Things are done now.  GO skiing and worry about your skiing.  If you fall or your skis come off, it's probably your technique rather then your equipment!

Yea, I here ya and I guess your right. I can still slap (or punch) the boot out so it should be fine. I was just thinking if its too tight then the ski wouldn't flex the way it should but I'm probably overthinking it lol

 

Thanks all for the input but the conversation can continue if anyone wishes just for better and/or further understandings or just for sake of conversation :)

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