Originally Posted by raytseng
Initially just clean up your side edges every day or couple days, and learn waxing your skis.
You might never need to go beyond those steps and just budget a pro tuneup a season or so which entails edge sharpening and potentially base grinding and plex as needed. The shop should look at your skis like a car mechanic and say your skis are fine or your skis sre in bad shape and need base grind, it is not on a specific schedule.
I can suggest following tips maximizing frugality for your day to day care.
- if you only have 1 set of skis so after getting edges set once professionally, just get 1 edge sharpening tool or a multi angle tool. You are just deburring so it's more casual and don't need a full set of stones.
For the pro tuneup, choose a shop that is near a resort rather than in your hometown non ski area. Shops at ski area have more business and competition to do a better job versus say rei that hires a new guy every season and sends him to watch a 1day online workshop from a ski wax company. You still need to ask around. They all will do overnight tunes so this should not cause you to lose a day.
For home tuning for the frugal ,
-use a old beach towel (long) or tarp if you want to wax on a table or floor. Itll cushion the ski a bit and catch wax and dust. Knees and back hurt more but it's cheaaap. You should always just keep an old towel around to wipe down skis and protect the skis and car anyway.
-if you're ultimately cheap, or in a bind where the grocery store uses paperstraps on their brocolli or there are no bike innertubes or ski shops or livestrong bracelets, just use a length of rope for brake retainer. You can find rope everywhere but can't always find those other rando gizmos. Rope should be athe least butchers twine or thicker in diameter. Use whatever you have around, don't spend specifically just to buy rope that you won't use for other things. Specifically use a tautline hitch to make adjustable loop that you can tighten down to retract the brakes but also csn loosen the loop and reuse. It'll hold as long as your rope is not like nylon and slippery.
You could also just say f it and not sharpen at the brakes or skip applying wax at the brakes that you can't get to.
-if you only have indoors avail, highly suggest the fiberlene method or skip brushing/scraping. Do not underestimate the mess you'll make with brushing and scraping, especially if theres any breeze or air movement that'll blow the dust around. Do not overeapply too much wax as that'll just be more wax you have to take off and is tougher if you're choosing not to scrape.
I'd suggest instead of crayon method which takes too long, use the hot touch and apply method to get a thin amount of wax without wearing out your arms crayoning.
-if you want to brush and don't want to make a mess, potentially you can brush in the parking lot or outside somewhere or on the snow. You might not get the brake area but you'll cut some structure into the wax so your skis won't be complete suction cups for the first runs. You can just set the skis up against a wall or corner or tailgate or on a trash can and do a quick job. Towel comes in handy again here to help protect depending on the setup. A sturdy large trashcan is pretty good for an outside job if you have one and an oudoor space. Bindings fit in the trashcan hole so is relatively stable, and if you're scraping, you can get the scrapings to go (mostly) right into the can.
-you should at a minimum clear your edges of wax. You can use old creditcards/hotel keys to accomplish this task.
-If you don't want to spend on fancy skiwax brushes you can go with a cheap bathroom brush (look for shorter stiff nylon bristles) or use scotch Brite pads. But realize you're compromising and not doing it exactly right, but you're saving money and still getting bulk excess wax off for less mess, less money, and less setup