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Tyrolia Railflex Adjustment

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
OK....I will now provide tonights chuckle for all gear-heads in the know.

I was under the assumption that railflex bindings could be adjusted for different sole lengths quite easily.

DUH...how do you make the adjustment?

I know about the screw in the middle of the rail for forward, middle and rear stance, but how about different boot sizes?

There is no "magical" adjustment feature that I can find.


post #2 of 14
First, remove the binding from the ski by removing the one single screw. Then, look and the top and bottom of the rail. You'll see numbers faintly stamped into the metal. You'll also see levers - just try to look for them, they're there. The levers will loosen the toe piece. You then set the toe piece to line up the line (you'll see it if you look for it) with the boot sole length of your choice - you do need to hold it in place - and flip the lever back, which will hold it in place. Do the same thing wit the heel piece.

This may take some searching and experimenting, but if you keep after it, you'll eventually figure it out.
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks oboe!
post #4 of 14
Maybe mine are different, but i can adjust mine by just lifting a lever behind the heel piece. That might be easier.
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!!

The Railflex bindings I have are the LD12 model.

oboe guided me through the extremely easy process.
It is foolproof! *Even for me!*

What a great concept! In actuality, you can have a quiver of railflex skis and one set of bindings.

Slide the binding off one ski and slide it one the other. It takes about 2 minutes to do.

The settings on the bottom of the adjustment rail are well marked and definitive. There is no margin of error. Everthing clicks into place. WOW!!!
post #6 of 14
Is that LD12 the same as the Fischer FD12 as per the RX8 and my RX6s? It sounds the same. Comes off easily enough but wouldn't want to drop that bolt in a carpark. Also doesn't the connecting rod seem very flimsy and easy to crimp unless you were working on a bench?

In reassembling it I have to remember not to try and rethread the whole thing from the back, it goes on mid way so that the toe and heel house simultaneously.
post #7 of 14
Once you get your boot size set, you can also turn those levers and adjust the binding forward and back on the ski in 5mm increments, a very nice feature.
post #8 of 14
Yes, railflex is a nice compromise for me too. I have purchased an extra railflex plate for my other skis for two reasons:

1) Makes it easier to lug two skis up the gondola on days I want to have fun with two or more skis.

2) Can protect my bindings from ski rack elements as they can be easily taken off to and from the slopes.

3) Two skis fit easier in the ski bag when one is minus the bingings.

The only downside is to not to be rough with the bindings as the thin rail seems easy to bend or crush in trunk, etc...make sure they are place on top of all your "stuff." Lastly, having an extra screw seems to be a good idea too.
post #9 of 14
Yes, Tyrolia has quietly developed the best binding there is: adjustability, ease of use and installation, release directions, ... It is the most solid looking binding too (HD14). Probably #2 behind Salomon in retention. Even if you want one of their more solid racing setups, there are lots of holes for fore/aft adjustment.
post #10 of 14
FYI, the Marker binding on Elan Fusion skis has the same capaility through a different mechanism. When you adjust it, the toe and heelpieces move synchronously at the same time.

I note with interest that the coming Elan Mantis 666 Fusion will have the Tyrolia binding.
post #11 of 14
How much do extra mount plates cost?

The flimsiness of the rail and the adjustment mech. does concern me, but it is a great concept. Give it 3 years and they'll make it bomber.
post #12 of 14
Extra plate cost? Anyone?
post #13 of 14
The plates are free.
post #14 of 14
I'll take 3 *S*
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