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dont know which ski to get. All mointain or piste oreinted - Page 3

post #61 of 74

FWIW, I bought a pair of skis from Level Nine a year and a half ago and it was a good experience.  Skis were Fischer Motive 88 and I had Head FreeFlex Pro bindings mounted on them by L9.  Skis arrived promptly, well packaged, and bindings were mounted properly.  I don't know anything about the TechnoPro skis but L9 is a reputable dealer.

post #62 of 74
post #63 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post

Your welcome.

As I've stated many times here, I tune all my skis and my GF's (level 5or 6) skis at 1/3 I enjoy the edge hold when needed.

I think anyone who's a level 7 (has a pole plant) knows what to do on true ice. Don't make any fast corrections, keep the ski on edge.

Any high end ski will do well, some just do it better. Volkl's are known for edge hold. Years back when I demoed Volkl's from the Rep, and got back on my shop tuned skis...I noticed a difference. After reading here about tuning, and a friends daughter (downhiller) told me go to 1/3, I have matched the Volkl Rep's tune.

Tuning can do a lot for a ski. Its also known not every ski from the best shop is perfect every time. I started tuning my own about 12 years ago, since then, I have never had bad tune.

 

If I understand correctly, a 1/3 tune is 1* on the bottom edge and 3* on the sides, right? What would the difference be with 0/2?

post #64 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayde View Post
 

 

If I understand correctly, a 1/3 tune is 1* on the bottom edge and 3* on the sides, right? What would the difference be with 0/2?

 

 0/2 would be a a very bad tune to attempt to ski in anything but deep fluffy powder. 1/2 would be fine though for most rec skiers.

post #65 of 74

ok - but I'm trying to understand why? what happens with flat bottoms?

post #66 of 74
Thread Starter 
Quote:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayde View Post
 

ok - but I'm trying to understand why? what happens with flat bottoms?

In general we only want the ski to grab edge hold while its rolled on edge. Not while skiing flat. On harpack when you want to cruise flat and forward we don't want the ski to grab edges. So if the edges are set up a tad higher than the base it allows the ski just enough to free up from turning. We've all caught edges unwillingly while skiing flat forward. If the base tune was flat this would happen more easily and more constantly. Would become quite the nuisance I imgane.

post #67 of 74

Thanks. Still learning.

post #68 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayde View Post
 

ok - but I'm trying to understand why? what happens with flat bottoms?


In the transition of a linked carved turn, you want to be able to tip the ski on edge, let your weight and other physical forces reverse the skis camber and then start it carving. This can happen very early in the transition, the early the better. With 0 degrees base bevel the edges could engage too soon and would produce a "grabby", "chattery" feel at best, and perhaps, if you caught an edge bring you down. Also most recreational skiers, even really good ones, have a little skid in their carve. You want to be able to release the edges out of the carve platform cut in the snow; having some base bevel facilitates that.

 

World cup racers sometimes ski .5 base bevel. So even at that level they need some bevel. 

post #69 of 74

Cool. All good data points. Thanks

post #70 of 74
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayde View Post
 

 

If I understand correctly, a 1/3 tune is 1* on the bottom edge and 3* on the sides, right? What would the difference be with 0/2?

But in addition to some of the answers,

 the two tunes here do actually have the same angle (or sharpness)

They would both be 2degrees from 90 or at 88*.

Perhaps you knew that already and is why you asked only about the flat base but I wasn't sure.

post #71 of 74

I knew the 'what' but never knew the 'why'. In my ute, I only had a square block of wood, a file, and no money so the edges were square. At 6'3", angulation was never an issue. I believed (rightly or wrongly) a 1* bottom bevel would require even more angulation to get the ski to bite so I never went there even when I did, on occasion, have to take the skis to the shop for the stone grind treatment.

 

I enjoy tuning and can now afford the proper tools so I'm learning the 'why' behind the 'what'.

post #72 of 74
Quote:

Originally Posted by ayde View Post

 

I never went there even when I did, on occasion, have to take the skis to the shop for the stone grind treatment.

 

 

I've got some news for you, no shop is putting skis across a stonegrinder without base bevel. It destroys the grind pattern in the stone and requires redressing the stone. Stones cost upward of $1500... you might not have thought they were beveled, but I assure you, they were.

post #73 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayde View Post
 

I knew the 'what' but never knew the 'why'. In my ute, I only had a square block of wood, a file, and no money so the edges were square. At 6'3", angulation was never an issue. I believed (rightly or wrongly) a 1* bottom bevel would require even more angulation to get the ski to bite so I never went there even when I did, on occasion, have to take the skis to the shop for the stone grind treatment.

 

I enjoy tuning and can now afford the proper tools so I'm learning the 'why' behind the 'what'.

What is a ute? 

post #74 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldgoat View Post
 

What is a ute? 

 

You'll have to watch the movie.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/My_Cousin_Vinny

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