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Salomon X-Drive 80 Ti vs. Atomic Blackeye Ti

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Looking at the X-Drive 80 Ti (163mm) or the Blackeye Ti (160mm).  I'm 5'3 and weigh 142, and I'm an advanced Intermediate.  I only ski Vermont/New Hampshire.  Looking for stability at speed.

 

Any suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

-[Ch]ams

post #2 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chamsalot View Post
 

Looking at the X-Drive 80 Ti (163mm) or the Blackeye Ti (160mm).  I'm 5'3 and weigh 142, and I'm an advanced Intermediate.  I only ski Vermont/New Hampshire.  Looking for stability at speed.

 

Any suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

-[Ch]ams


Both good skis.  It's the tuning and preparation that will make either one excel.  The length you are choosing is good.

post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks Jacques!

post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chamsalot View Post
 

Thanks Jacques!


You are welcome.  Really no need to go into a bunch of bla bla.  I ski as short as 147 and still go 50 plus MPH with no issues.  Those choices in the 160 range should be very stable at speed.  Good luck and please seek out hand tuning after you spend the money.

post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 

Would I need to hand-tune brand new skis?  Or should I do it after a few days of skiing?  Thanks again for your replies.

post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chamsalot View Post
 

Would I need to hand-tune brand new skis?  Or should I do it after a few days of skiing?  Thanks again for your replies.


They are machined at the factory.  That's one time too much for me.  I always tune a ski by hand before I ski it.  That's just me though.

 

No ski is greater than the tune it has.  If you don't like the skis 10 to 1 it is the tuning.

 

Maybe this will get an argument going.  :popcorn

 

post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 

Jacques,

I finally got the skis (and a new jacket... and a new helmet... and some gloves... and Sidas orthotic insoles... and two new pairs of ski socks).  I did look at the edge and it  has all  the same serrations as shown in the video, and that's the factory tune!  Is that normal, for the factory to machine tune rather than hand tune the skis?

 



Edited by Chamsalot - 12/2/14 at 1:38pm
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chamsalot View Post
 

Jacques,

I finally got the skis (and a new jacket... and a new helmet... and some gloves... and Sidas orthotic insoles... and two new pairs of ski socks).  I did look at the edge and it  has all  the same serrations as shown in the video, and that's the factory tune!  Is that normal, for the factory to machine tune rather than hand tune the skis?

 



For most it is.  Some days the tunes may come out better than others.  If you hand tune the edges won't get so hardened and can be resharpened easy.  Each time a machine tune is done the edge gets harder.  Then in a not so good machine the ups and downs get amplified.  Those are sweet sticks there.  Go to a shop that sells DPS skis and look at the edges.  That's only one reason they cost more.  They are finished by hand!  If you have not yet learned to tune just ask for hand tuning.  Once you spend the time and money to get all the tune stuff and learn it, you will never regret it.  Nice black and green theme!   Take care!

 

 

post #9 of 12

If you're an advanced intermediate, you do not need to hand tune your brand new skis.

 

Go ski them first.  Unless money is no object for you or you can get good hand tune without spending money.

Your money is better spent on working on your skills or lessons or other gear.  

 

It is like getting a brand new new car and then immediately throwing away the factory tires and brakes before driving a single mile on them.  

Yes, aftermarket tires are going to be better, but the factory is "good enough" to at least use them, before spending extra money.

post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by raytseng View Post
 

If you're an advanced intermediate, you do not need to hand tune your brand new skis.

 

Go ski them first.  Unless money is no object for you or you can get good hand tune without spending money.

Your money is better spent on working on your skills or lessons or other gear.  

 

It is like getting a brand new new car and then immediately throwing away the factory tires and brakes before driving a single mile on them.  

Yes, aftermarket tires are going to be better, but the factory is "good enough" to at least use them, before spending extra money.


Yes Ray has a point.  You can tune them later after they dull.  No hurry.  Because that's one thing I do (tune skis), I always tune before they hit the snow.  You should clean and wax the skis for sure though.  Hope you both had some family time today and it was good.

post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by raytseng View Post

 

It is like getting a brand new new car and then immediately throwing away the factory tires.

 

Funny you should say this because I actually replaced the factory tires immediately on my new car, although I didn't throw them away.  I still have the factory tires in my basement, but I did promptly put on high-performance summer tires.  However, now that the summer tires are pretty much worn (they have maybe 2,000 more miles to go on them), I'm going to save money and put the factory tires back on (after the winter of course, right now I have my winter tires installed).

post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
 


Yes Ray has a point.  You can tune them later after they dull.  No hurry.  Because that's one thing I do (tune skis), I always tune before they hit the snow.  You should clean and wax the skis for sure though.  Hope you both had some family time today and it was good.


Then that's what I'll do.  And I'll always make sure to have them hand-tuned and never machine tuned.  Really appreciate the time you took to post the information and videos Jacques!  Happy Holidays!

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