Originally Posted by maroon bells
This is what I will be working on then when I go on the 12th Dec, many thanks. I will report back (if you are interested!)
The very small steering angle that Rick talked about is your ticket MB.
Twisting is optional and in my experience will often destroy a good brushed carve because you really have to flatten a ski to be able to actually twist it into steering angle, particularly for larger steering angles. Focus on tipping control.
As JAMT pointed out, you need edge angle to slow yourself and/or to carve yourself. Edge angles are still your friend in any kind of carving or braking. If you create large steering angles, then the skis have to be flatter. If you edge them more to get some carving or braking action, then they will tend to self-reduce their own steering angle (ie, they will start to move in the direction they are pointed, which essentially reduces their steering angle), and once they are edged that much, twisting them to continuously create still more steering angle is futile).
But the key is to develop edge angles which are ever so slightly less then what you would normally need to pure arc. This allows the ski to smear a small amount without twisting it to smear it. Its "allowed" smearing versus "forced" smearing if that makes any sense to you. And smearing will slow you down, while also allowing a tighter carved turn shape, which also slows you down by keeping you out of the fall line, all the while with a bigger and more effective edge angle then can be obtained when you try to twist the skis into steering angle on flatter skis.
Brushing carved turns gives you the best of both worlds:
- You get speed control from the actual brushing or skidding component, and in a good carved turn, since edge engagement happens very very earlier in the turn, you have brushing happening well before the fall line and all the way through the entire turn. You get a bit more of a feeling of continuous speed control, rather then the falling-braking-falling-braking feeling you get with pivot entries or arc'd accelerating into the fall line like racers try to do. The larger edge angles obtained through carving also have more slowing power when there is brushing.
- You get speed control from more effectively being able to carve yourself out of the fall line sooner. In a twisty-pivoty approach to steering, carving essence is reduced, mainly due to reduced edge angle. That is like trying to make wedge turns down a steep run, you can only make small turns at uber slow speeds; go even marginally faster and the turn size will increase dramatically due to lack of edge angle engagement and insufficient carving action.
So combine the larger edge angles with very small steering angles, achieved by keeping the edge angle just shy of what will produce arcing, yet big enough to create strong carving action(ie, this is mainly about edge control, not rotary), and you will be brush carving and getting the best of both worlds.