I want to ask a couple of beginner/intermediate-type pet questions. (They've been wagging around my heals from time to time, and this thread made me aware of them again.)
1. Since most skis I'm going to work on to change the base bevel will generally have about a 1* bevel on them before I start, when I change them to .75* or .5* won't I get a slight "long bevel," as Jacques has called it in his base scraping video, the new bevel encroaching into the plastic base with its shallower angle?
Again, since you are flattening the angle, it will extend deeper into the base past the metal, won't it? So when you decrease the base bevel angle in this way, do you routinely also lower the base, at least close to the edges, or just leave the 1/8th inch or so of bevel intruding into the plastic alone? (Or base grind it once the angle is set, at the shop you know to be rock solid.)
Or am I doing it wrong?
2. I've been solving the downward-extending side edge burr by doing what you essentially do when honing a knife: at the end I give the other side of the edge a hone as well, alternating a stroke or two: a stroke on the edge, a stroke on the base, and back, using an edge guide, then not, using maybe a fine ceramic stone. It seems to get shiny sharp, no burr. Will this work longterm?
Related, are most of you generally leaving the base bevel alone in terms of deburring maintenance after skiing, or do you also deburr the base? When doing both, I'm alternating strokes at the end here too. Is this a mistake? (My longterm process is to maintain the base bevel and base level myself manually, as well as the side edge bevel; not leave the base to a shop machine.)
3. Using an Arkansas stone, are these water-based hones or regular oil-based? Water-based, I have to think: so are the stones being sold through racewax, Tognar, Artech, Slidewright, etc., water based? And a surgical stone like Atomicman describes, where do you get it, and is it expensive?
Edited by ski otter - 11/6/14 at 4:37pm