New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Wanna cut some boots

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Last season I picked up some Head 125 RS size 25.5 and they have basically no flex when it's cold enough to take the beers inside. Very painful every time you hit bumps the wrong way or screw up in gates. But I put up with them all season and compared with these, my old boots Atomic CS 110 are soft to the point of being unskieable anywhere above -30Celsius.. Bought a pair of Atomic STI 130 and these are mush as well (sell them cheap if you want them... Skied 2 hours). A bit more decent than the 110 but mush compared to them Heads, which must be around 200 in Atomic flex,

I understand that the Heads small sizes are overly stiff and trimming the top of the lower shell is the thing to do. Which. I did at end of season and they became a little too soft for what I got used to.

The lower shell is marked for trimming, all around, which I ddi with a dremmel. I think they are around 150 in Atomic flex numbers.

I got a newer pair of the heads, 130 this time and. I want to only trim half, to get around 170 Atomic flex. That would be just forgiving enough to avoid pain. Question is: should. I trim the front half or the rear half? I am thinking front because that should not soften them too much? And then some of the rear if I want them softer?

Thanks and cheers
Edited by razie - 10/22/14 at 4:51pm
post #2 of 9
How much do you weigh? How tall?

What is the circumference of yor calf at the top of the liner?

post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
171cm or 5'7
144 lbs or thereabouts
What you asked is about 352mm or 13.85"

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
No custom footbeds - I couldn't fit my old ones inside and just used whatever was in there - seems to have good support.
post #5 of 9

for adjusting the flex using cuts on the lower, i would recommend that you start by lowering just the sides of the lower shell to start. you can work in 5mm increments so that you stop and check the flex as you go. 


watch this video to better understand the shell softening process:



post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 

AWESOME - thank you - makes perfect sense! 5mm it is. the boot you're working on there looks very similar to my Head - color and all


I had already trimmed the bottom of the cuff a few mm before cutting the lower - but it still wasn't good enough.



post #7 of 9

on a side note.....the build of your footbed, in normal circumstances, should be able to fit into your boots. the stock footbed that comes in the head boot does not do much for comfort or support. it is possible that your custom does not offer improved comfort or support either.


your boot fitter should be able to assess what you need under your foot, and how to either modify your current footbeds or build you one that works in that boot. 



post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 

the old footbed was made when i got my first good boot, an atomic Hawx 100, plenty of room in that one and it's too bulky for the Heads. but you're right - now that i've settled on the heads, i should go back and either see if he can fix that one or get a new one made. i use Gates and Boards, in Barrie, ON - very good fitters there.


this is with the heads, before cutting them, on a cold day - riding a 171cm/20m ski - if it tells you anything about flex... i think i like the shin angle on these boots (tibia coming out of it)... or something.. can't quite tell why i like them. i do not overtighten the buckles and keep the strap under the plastic. on that day, i had the mask on so they must've been cement as usual :)



thanks and cheers


ps/ they didn't fit the boot for me, it was ebay :) they did just grind it and checked alignment...

Edited by razie - 10/23/14 at 11:50am
post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 

ok. refresher: my old boots 2008 HEAD RS 125, which I massively cut up everywhere, still do not flex at all. I think they are like... broken somehow. I used them all last season and was IN PAIN.


the new boots, 2012 HEAD RS 130 flex nicely. compared to the others, they're quite mushy - so i will not cut inside the boot anymore. NO MORE PAIN, which is NICE!!!


all i did was to cut up the lip that says "front support adjust" and put the wedges at the back and now i'm back to being forward. in fact, I think i will put all the screws at the back, in, to stiffen it up.


do you konw if the flex/stance adjustment at the back really makes any difference? if I put the screws in, the thing will be stuck to middle...



New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Ask the Boot Guys