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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Daylight Between Bindings and Skis OK?
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Daylight Between Bindings and Skis OK?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

I just mounted my daughter's new skis.  I put Marker M4 bindings on them.  I drilled the ski in the correct places with a Wintersteiger 3.5mm x 7mm bit.  I reamed the holes a little bit with a countersink.  Then, I hand-drove the supplied screws through the bindings, into the ski while exerting significant downward force.  These are wood-core skis.

 

I stopped turning the screws when they wouldn't turn without excessive torque.  The end result is that the topsheets seem to have swelled up right around the screw holes so that the binding is in contact with the swelled areas, but not the whole topsheet.  I can probably slide a business card under the toepiece.

 

So, what should I do?  I could probably leave them, as my daughter isn't too heavy.  Or, I could remove the bindings and plane off the swollen areas of topsheet.  If I do that, would I be weakening the setup?  I've read that the topsheet provides much of the resistance to pull-out.  I could ream out the underside of the binding holes, but that sounds like a bad idea.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

post #2 of 10

Shouldn't there be a think plastic anti friction plate like a gasket between the ski and the binding top soak up any irregularities where the screw stretches the topsheet?
Why not cut a think strip of plastic or rubber to put under the binding if the plastic isn't soaking up the gap properly?

post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 

Hmm.  I've never seen such a gasket.  I've mounted a number of kids skis and a few adult skis and it's always been a rigid plastic binding base against the topsheet.  I'll look more closely at my professionally mounted skis to see if there's any gasket.

post #4 of 10

It's usually hard plastic and the anti friction plate is usually attached to it.

post #5 of 10
Did you use a flat chisel and level off the top sheet after drilling?
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 

@markojp, the topsheets were pretty flat after drilling.  I cleaned up the ragged edges with a Surform and then I used a countersink to dish out the topsheet a tiny bit.  There were no raised areas until I started the actual installation.

 

I forgot to mention that I put some RooClear into the holes right before the screws.  I doubt that matters.

post #7 of 10
A credit card is a lot of daylight. A business card is not too bad. When I have that much gap I usually need to tighten the screws more. A nice big hand driver gives better feel than a higher torque setting on the drill. I'm often surprised how much torque it takes.
I'm not sure what Roo clear is but if it's epoxy, get the screw very hot before you retorque. A soldering iron has worked for me.
Sometimes if I used a too small drill, a big bump is left. I've dremeled clearance in the bottom of the binding plastic (or the gasket, spacer, lift) to make the binding seat.
You do want the binding flat on the ski. Performance and longevity are helped by a solid mount.
post #8 of 10
You are fine. This is normal for this binding, as long as the areas of the screws are flush.
post #9 of 10

With woodcore skis, I always use a countersink to make a small chamfer on the hole and then use a tap to thread the hole before inserting a screw. Without tapping the hole, the displaced material has to go somewhere when driving the screw in and usually there is no place to go but up.

 

Karl

post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the feedback, folks.

 

I think I'll leave them as-is for now and watch them throughout the season.  If I notice them loosening, it won't be a big deal to re-mount in the same holes.  In the future, I'll use the tap.

 

Just for clarification, RooClear is a water-based glue designed for melamine.  Also, I used a regular screwdriver, not a drill.  Having stripped holes before, I know when to stop turning.  I'm pretty sure the areas of the screws are flush.

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