Just seeing this thread, and it's obviously been pretty derailed, but I'll try to address some things that haven't been covered.
To the original post, it's hard to tell from the pictures, but the structure looks quite course, like a pregrind/flattening structure. If it feels like corduroy, which is what it looks like, it's probably going to be less than optimal to turn in any conditions.
With regards to flattening a ski with a stone grinder and having it returned base or edge high, this is most often do to impatience/incompetence on the part of the operator, or due to improper belt grinding followed by lazy stone grinding. One of the most important factors when flattening a ski is the feed pressure, which is the downward pressure on the ski as it passes over the stone. If your skis topsheets have shape to them, be it plates, dampening, or whatever else, there will be more pressure exerted in those areas, and thus more material removed, leaving the skis base or edge high in those areas. The only way to compensate for this is to reduce the feed pressure to almost nothing, and take usually 50-60 passes to achieve the desired results. With a flat topsheet, like most Volkls, this can be as few as 6 passes. Keep in mind this is just for the flattening process. This step leaves a very course structure in the ski that you would never want to ski on. Next you need to re-dress the stone with a very tight, and fine linear to "blank" the ski, which essentially leaves you a new fresh surface to impart your finish grind on. The blanking stage is another 2-5 passes. Finally, you redress the stone for your final pattern based on ski, skier, discipline, conditions, etc. This is the final pass, and the one that imparts the structure which you are all talking about.
As you can imagine, to do this process properly requires 40 minutes to 2 hours per pair of skis, and uses 3 separate stone dressing cycles, which aren't cheap. This is why 99% of shops put out bad tunes, they just aren't willing to spend the time required to do it properly, or they do not have anyone on staff that actually knows how to assess the skis condition in the first place, or bring it to where it needs to be. The sad truth is that most shops rarely have a complaint, because the vast majority of skiers have never had a good tune, and as long as the skis look nice when they pick them up they are happy. Geometry never even enters their mind as a factor.
Speaking of structure, it is still a relatively new aspect of race tuning and tuning in general. It's really only been highly controllable and repeatable for the last 10-15 years, which means we all still have a lot to learn. The only way to really know if your structure is adding a measurable improvement is to test it on a glide track in very specific conditions. For a recreational skier, some structure is necessary in order to move water and increase glide, but very specific structures for conditions are almost never necessary. Most modern machines have 3 depths of cut, .01-.03mm, some have 6 where each step is a half step to a max depth of .03mm, and the really nice race grinders are CNC controlled and can do any depth. For almost all conditions anything over a .02 is too deep and will be grippy, unless you're doing an extra step where you run one final pass after your finish grind on a perfectly blank stone to take the high point off the cut.
The pattern itself can be linear or crosshatch, or variations of these, with the exception on the CNC machines that again, can do almost anything. A chevron, sine wave, arrow, thumbprint, or any of the center specific structures are all variations of a crosshatch pattern. These patterns require you to increase the speed of the diamond to the center of the stone on the first pass and decrease from the center to the end, and then do the opposite on the return pass. Or you can do it with a variable stone speed on some machines. All of the variables - stone speed, diamond speed, diamond depth of cut, feed speed, and feed pressure - will affect the outcome of the structure. In general, as has been stated, you'd run finer structures for cold dry snow, and courser structures for warm, wet snow like we have in the Sierras. The courser structure will move the abundance of free water more easily in wet conditions, while the fine structure will increase surface area and create more water to promote better glide in dry conditions.
For tech skis, SL/GS, we never run a linear because quick turning is the name of the game, and we barely want to feel it from edge to edge, because if we can it is most likely slowing you down. On speed skis, SG/DH, we run different patterns for different conditions, because most athletes have multiple pairs, but again, rarely do we run a linear. For your average recreational skier we almost exclusively run medium depth, and a variation of a crosshatch, and people love it.
As for Dominator's Butter in the spring, it is an awesome product and pretty economical. I think it retails for $42 and as a rub on wax it will last you forever if you're only using it for yourself. I gave my Dad a block 3 years ago and he rubs it on every 3-4 runs in the spring when it gets sticky and swears it saves his back from the jarring spring stiction. We also had lots of spring podiums running Butter as an overlay in all types of events from tech to speed, skiier cross, and the mens and womens winners of the Rhalves Banzai Tour. I'd highly recommend all Dominator products, it's what we use pretty much exclusively, because we usually regret it when we don't.