Some observations, nemeisis256:
1. That is a simple straight structure, Why the tech put on a coarser structure, you will have to ask him. The coarser structures are for wet snow, such as we might have late season. Late season warm snow tends to be slower, so perhaps that is the reason for the straight structure is to run faster. That would not necessarily be the best structure for next winter (it seems likely that you would not be stone grinding and restructuring again before you hit the snow next season). I think you got the stone that was in the machine at the time.
2. Appearances can be deceiving but it looks like the diagonal p-tex fill that runs to the edge on the left of the picture is not completely filled, particularly near the edge. I can't think of a good reason why that should be there. It should be filled and flat, period, if done right.
3. The bases should NEVER be higher than the edges anywhere along the length of the ski. All skis become somewhat base high as they are skied and need to be re-flattened (although not by much usually). If the bases are higher near the edges in the tip and tail, this means that the high base prevents the edges from engaging completely or predictably. Modern skis are meant to be sharpened and engaged along their entire length of contacting surfaces. If the skis are what you say they are, they will be difficult to control. If the skis are base high anywhere along the edges or width, that is a bad grind, and will detract from performance.
Rereading what you have written, I am not sure if you are saying the edges are higher instead of the bases being higher, so I will address. If the edges are high, which is to say that you are seeing a high edge in the tip and tail with no support from the base at the edges, then the skis are railed in those areas. This will make the skis unpredictable and very hard to control, as the edges need some support from the base to keep from suddenly digging into the snow too deeply. Wider skis especially are concave somewhat in the middle, but as long as you have at least 1/4" of support at the edges that should give the edge enough support to do its job properly.
4. Since the skis are going into storage for the summer, the lack of scraping and brushing is not an issue. Many people do just that at the end of the season to help prevent oxidation of the bases. They will still scrape and then re-wax for the beginning of next season.
5. See 4.
6. There appears to be a lot of wax on the edges that would be a natural result of the waxing process, but was never scraped off. Until that is scraped off you cannot tell anything meaningful about your edges. You really will need to scrape off the excess wax on the bases before you can check the base angle, as the high spots of excess wax will affect any readings you try to make. Since you have the concerns that you do, you should do this before you go back to the tuner, so that you can clearly determine what is going on.
Since you have a true bar, this is what I would do if I were you. Scrape the bases until level and brush out, using a plexiglass scraper and wax brush. Clean the edges of the leftover wax.
Set up a table lamp with an adjustable arm at the tail end of the ski, with the lamp adjusted down and aimed towards the tail. Set your true bar on the base at the tail, straddling the edges. You will want to pick up the true and reset it down about every 2 inches to get an idea what you are seeing.along the length of the ski, good or bad.
You should see the bottom of the true bar contacting the inside of the steel edge on both sides, along the length of the ski. Period. If you are seeing light under the true bar edge before you get to the base edge, this will mean that the base is high, at least in the portion of the ski that you are looking.
Along with that edge contact should be the support of at least 1/4" of base, as indicated earlier. You will likely see some concavity. As long as the edge has enough support that is ok.
As you move along the ski, you may notice hills and valleys. Not uncommon, unless the skis are completely flattened. The rub to flattening bases is that you have to remove edge material to get there. It is a balancing act between taking so much off that you shorten the life of the ski to get it truly flat, or flat enough.
I have had skis tuned where the edge bevel extended into the base itself. You will be able to see that if it is there, and you should look for it. Skis like crap too, and the bases have to be reground.
As you move the true bar along the length of the ski, you can eyeball to see if the edge angle varies. It shouldn't, but I have seen that vary considerably when I have had bad work done.
I hope you will take the time to do this. You will learn a lot about your skis and the quality of work you are getting.