I might add that there's no reason to do anything other than a standard, single bevel tune unless the tips and/or tails are hooking or grabbing. Do the standard tune, don't detune the edges, ski on them, then decide if there's a problem to fix. And find a shop that will do a standard, 1deg/2deg tune, without detuning
1) Experience 88 from the factory is beveled 1-2, but as a demo that angle might have been changed. The 88 is used by lots of pros because it will carve well moving slow or fast, and at different turn radii, great for giving lessons. The 1-2 bevel helps the 88 to have a smooth, better carve, in my experience. (I have the Experience 98, which has the same bevel angles.)
Whether a sharper bevel like the 1-2 wears out quicker is very much open to debate on this forum, as many posts will attest. The preponderance of opinion, and my own experience, seems to be that there is no appreciably greater wear between 1-1. 1-2, and 1-3.
I've heard that skiing water-sprayed ice slalom courses in important "practice runs" here in Colorado, top level racers have wrecked top of the line slalom skis in a day by using bevels as high as 1-7; but for the ranges of bevel angles up to 1-3 there is not much difference in wear rate.
2) As the quote says, set the bevels, then ski them, to see if your skis already handle well. If they do, this will give you more carving length. If not, I try to just re-enforce the tip bevels with a ceramic stone, and make sure there isn't an edge burr near the tip with the same tool, a gummy or an Arkansas stone. With most skis, that is enough.
3) The base prep you describe will work well, if they get the grind right. But with a good waxing, "new ski" smooth bases work well in Colorado, IMHO, for the recreational skier.
Edited by ski otter - 4/8/14 at 12:18pm