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Remounting bindings to a similar size?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
I am thinking about buying some used skis that have been mounted twice, both at (or near) 320mm, once at true center and once at 2cm back. My boots are 327mm and I would mount them at true center. The holes would be pretty close to some of the existing holes, and maybe even overlap. Would this cause any issues? If so, is there any way to make it work, and are there any drawbacks? Thanks.
post #2 of 15
compare bindings hole and go for the one that cause less trouble... when you say overlap, if you meant to reasu than that should be fine, if you need new holes than can't be too close, not sure how much, but thinking 1cm+ is fine, less than that they might not hold for long...

edit because that's not tgr, but there is a big topic discussing mounts there that you can read through it and try to find what you need, just be careful before posting there ;-)
post #3 of 15

The rear, of many bindings, is mounted on a track and moveable via the screw at the rear. If your boots are only 7mm longer, first I would try to use the existing forward holes and determine if your rear binding will move forward enough to properly set the forward tension. What bindings do you have, and, do you know how to adjust the rear for correct tension?

post #4 of 15

I would try to use the existing holes - with a 7mm BLS difference it would only be a 3.5mm shift from BC.  Depending on the condition of the holes, you may need to have helicoils installed.  Some people also advocate for a mixture of steel wool and glue to reinforce the threads.  Good Luck!

post #5 of 15
Is it a woodcore ski or does it have metal? That makes a huge difference.
post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies. I'm not sure what bindings I would use yet, the skis are being sold without bindings. Something that would fit a 122mm waist, probably 14 or 16 DIN, standard alpine binding, not sure beyond that. I don't know how to make any binding adjustments other than DIN but I would have a ski tech do it. The core is 100% poplar wood, the skis are Surface New Lifes.
post #7 of 15
FKS 180s have a pretty tiny mounting pattern and that high of din.
If you're rocking that high of din I would seriously question the wisdom of buying a twice drilled ski though. It doesn't make sense hucking cliffs and risking tearing out a binding when you can get a new set of skis for 3-400 this time of year.
post #8 of 15

If you change to binding of a different manufacturer, then the hole patterns will not match up, so you would end up with a ski drilled 3x. Can you ask the seller what bindings were on them? Then replace in kind. A good shop should be able to look at the holes and determine what binding was used from the hole patterns. Getting a 14 or 16 din to fit the holes  may be a problem as most bindings don't go to that range.

post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clink83 View Post

FKS 180s have a pretty tiny mounting pattern and that high of din.

If you're rocking that high of din I would seriously question the wisdom of buying a twice drilled ski though. It doesn't make sense hucking cliffs and risking tearing out a binding when you can get a new set of skis for 3-400 this time of year.

 



I ski with a 9 DIN right now, I have STH 14s on my Obsethed. I use 14s because from what I've heard it's best to get a binding with my DIN setting around the middle of the binding's range, and I'll likely go higher at some point. I don't want to be skiing a 10 or 11 on a 4-12. And yeah I do cliffs and the like, if there's any risk of tearing off redrilled/remounted bindings then I'll definitely pay the extra money for new skis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Living Proof View Post

If you change to binding of a different manufacturer, then the hole patterns will not match up, so you would end up with a ski drilled 3x. Can you ask the seller what bindings were on them? Then replace in kind. A good shop should be able to look at the holes and determine what binding was used from the hole patterns. Getting a 14 or 16 din to fit the holes  may be a problem as most bindings don't go to that range.


 



Pretty sure he said he had Markers on them before, but after what Clink said I'll probably just get new skis.
post #10 of 15

You've received some great info.  Here's is what we used to do with ski team speed event skis without ever having a failure (most J3's and 2's can't afford a DH or SG type ski):  Go to a lumber yard or hardware store and buy the thinnest hardwood dowel. (pine or spruce will do in a pinch.  Heck I've even used golf tees!)  If necessary, whittle it down to match the hole size, usually 4.1+mm.  Size the depth and cut off a tad longer.  Epoxy the dowel into the holes and allow to thoroughly cure.  Use a Shure-Form to plane the top level and mount.  Because you're looking at a wood core ski, bonding the hole with wood and quality epoxy creates a solid mounting area.  If you can score some ski specific epoxy like Coltana 2000 or Areldite, that's even better as it's designed to be more flexible.  I hope this helps.

Hawk

post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks! I found a good deal on some new Lab 001s, which I want even more than the New Lifes, so I think I'm going to get those instead, but I'll save the info in case I ever need it in the future.
post #12 of 15

I wouldn't worry much about the din range thing, it's not founded in any reality that I know of. Find a binding that give you your T3 din for height/weight, and then work up from there.

If you aren't a big guy with a lot of those high din bindings you can't get a normal T2/T3 din range. For example, the FKS 180 has a din range of 8-18, so unless you're 6'4 and 200+ you're SOL. 

post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
I think my type 3 din is 7, but my skis pop off way too easily at 7 so I ski at 9, and they still release when needed.

I ended up ordering the Surface Lab 001s and I think for bindings I'm going to go with the 130mm Salomon STH2. They are 7-16, a bit higher than I need but my preferred din (9) is still within the range, and not many bindings come in 130mm, and I like my STH 14s. Do you think that would be a good binding for me for the Lab 001s?

Thank you for the help.
post #14 of 15
The high end Salomon bindings are great, but I had a friends who always had the toe wing adjustment rattle loose. I don't know if that is common of was just him.
If you have to crank your din to get your skis to stay on and arent loosing them on jumps I would suggest looking at a binding/boot issue.
As for what I like:

Lots of elastic travel, light, and they stay on better than just about anything. They are snow sensitive though.
post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the binding suggestion, I will consider those as well. Those are the FKS 180, correct? In the image it looks like it says FKJ. As for din, I don't think I am cranking them too high, I just ski really aggressively so I need them a bit above type 3. I ski fast, turn hard, jump cliffs, etc, and I've had more than one pair of skis/bindings pop off (when needed, and also when not wanted, but the latter has only happened below 9).

 

Also, what about the Marker Jester? What would be the main differences between Marker Jester, Salomon STH2, and Rossignol FKS 180? My boots are 327mm Salomon Impact 120 if it matters.


Edited by Sh4d0w - 3/29/14 at 9:04pm
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