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Base repair guns - opinions?

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 

I have done bad things to my bases this year and need to give them some TLC.

While a match and a PTEX candle is the standard approach, I would appreciate thoughts on the value of a dedicated heat gun like the Skimender 105 or its expensive brother the 360.

Thanks for the feedback.

D1

post #2 of 18
Get this:
http://www.tognar.com/tognar-p-tex-base-repair-iron-120v-us-can/

And this:
http://www.tognar.com/p-tex-base-repair-ribbon-clear-or-black/

That's all you need IME. I've done some pretty big gouges with that set-up and never felt the need for an expensive gun.
post #3 of 18

I've also tried the listed repair guns. They work OK but I personally prefer the Kuu Iron from Slidewright to the Togar Iron. The Kuu Iron comes standard with the wide tip and a couple of rods. Extra rods available at reasonable prices. ~~KUU Pro Fix Base Repair Kit KUU Pro Fix Base Repair Kit This is a great and easy to use repair iron on skis and snowboards. Wide tip for easy melting and spreading of welding sticks or rods. Comes with 2 clear and 2 black welding sticks. 120vac/40 watt output with ground. Check out our Soldering Iron Bas... Base Repair Ribbon Packs: Please Select...Singles-Black Singles-Clear 10 Pack-Black ($44.64) 20 Pack-Black ($53.64) 10 Pack-Clear ($44.64) 20 Pack-Clear ($53.64) 10 Pack-Combo ($44.64) 20 Pack-Combo ($53.64) List Price: $39.60 Price: $35.64

post #4 of 18
I prefer shop style welders, but at home I use an rp360 for long superficial repairs, and a this (link) for metal grip in core shots. Way cheaper than the tool vendors and with adjustable heat and flat tip

http://www.princessauto.com/mobile/product/productDetail.jsp?name=Adjustable+Heat+Soldering+Iron&productID=8103590
post #5 of 18
Thread Starter 

Much obliged, gents. Looks like the iron is a very good alternative to the gun. Will probably go with the KUU since it comes with the flat tip which tognar charges more for.

When should I use the metal grip ptex version - on any gouge that bisects the edge? If so - do the thin coat of metal edge with the regular ptex on top?

D1

post #6 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by deliberate1 View Post
 

Much obliged, gents. Looks like the iron is a very good alternative to the gun. Will probably go with the KUU since it comes with the flat tip which tognar charges more for.

When should I use the metal grip ptex version - on any gouge that bisects the edge? If so - do the thin coat of metal edge with the regular ptex on top?

D1

Use metal grip along the edge or for any core shot--thin coat, cover with PTEX. 

post #7 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Lee View Post

Get this:
http://www.tognar.com/tognar-p-tex-base-repair-iron-120v-us-can/

And this:
http://www.tognar.com/p-tex-base-repair-ribbon-clear-or-black/

That's all you need IME. I've done some pretty big gouges with that set-up and never felt the need for an expensive gun.


I've had success with just a basic $10 Walmart or True Value soldering iron like this.  The one I have came with a flat tip that spears the p-tex in the gouge and flattens it out on top nicely.

 

post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post


I've had success with just a basic $10 Walmart or True Value soldering iron like this.  The one I have came with a flat tip that spears the p-tex in the gouge and flattens it out on top nicely.

 

 



I have had good results by just heating a flat piece of steel bar stock with my small propane torch, which is the same thing I use to pre-heat the P-tex before I use it to light the P-tex candle. Just turn the flame way down.
Then i just kind of use it to blend the new P-tex into the old.

Just go easy.

Oh, also , you don't need percfect bases, I haven't fixted any small gouges in my bases in a couple years, I have a few 2-3" long diagainal may be 1/8" deep, a couple small ding's, you never feel them when skiing.

What's important is a flat base that's well waxed and sharp edges.
post #9 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post


I have had good results by just heating a flat piece of steel bar stock with my small propane torch, which is the same thing I use to pre-heat the P-tex before I use it to light the P-tex candle. Just turn the flame way down.

Uh, me and open flames.....:nono:

D1

post #10 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by deliberate1 View Post

Uh, me and open flames....." src="/img/vbsmilies/smilies/nonono2.gif">

D1

 



Just use your head. It's easy, really.

You'd be surprise how much damage a base can take and yet when your on the snow, you never know there is anything bad under foot.
post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by deliberate1 View Post
 

Uh, me and open flames.....:nono:

D1

post #12 of 18
ROFL... very funny LOL
post #13 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post
 

Exactly.

D1

post #14 of 18
What do you guys use to grind the base after you weld it?
post #15 of 18

I use a panzar file in the holder to knock off the high spots, then some coarse sand paper on a sanding block, change to a medium paper, then wax.

 

Any sharp strong steel blade can take off the high spots a small piece at a time too. Just use your head and think about your doing, be safe.

post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomfifield View Post

What do you guys use to grind the base after you weld it?

 

 

 

http://www.slidewright.com/bahco-sandvik-steel-scraper-5.php

post #17 of 18

 

Great tool!

 

Works excellent and does not pull the ptex patch out.

 

http://www.fktools-us.com/Product-Details.asp?Part-Number=3370

post #18 of 18
I have been using Ptex candles, but they come out after a time, so i have been thinking of getting a wielder. I am going to look into a few of these, I just don't want to spend the big bucks for a pro unit. I have been using a scraper to cut the high points down then sanding and using Sotchbrite pads to take the sanding hairs off. I like the idea of the panzar file , Atomicman that looks like a panzar file with a holder, does it make it easier to use and keep the file flat?
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