Well...hopefully someone will have experienced or heard of this and be able to give some additional thoughts on the situation. I've been doing a lot of reading to figure out what to do. Ditch the skis and get Stockli's which I think are torsionally stiffer, or get a longer length kastle...?
I just got a pair of Kastle MX88 in 168. and have now skied them 2 days. It is the East--so on piste we're talking Icey. Moguls, quick turny maneuverability are all fine.
But, If I try to go fast and carve down a ** blue intermediate slope**, I am having unbelievable violent whole ski chattering going on....to the point that my whole body is bouncing up and down as I try to carve turns-. And this is at 1/2 the speed I can easily go on my 2008/09 Atomic Nomad Crimson's with absolute stability. (That is what I'm replacing. They are 86 underfoot and 168 long)
--The skis are freshly tuned and honestly the sharpest tune I've ever encountered in my life. I can slice straight across a steep icey slope and I've never been able to do that before. You can feel the blades holding.
I think it is because of my being too heavy (230lbs) for this ski geometry, despite the middle width(86/88) and lengths(168) of the Atomic and Kastle skis being the same!! I am short-hence the Atomic 168 that felt good 5 years and 80lbs ago and right now too actually!.When I go slow, the MX88 is like a slalom ski and it is obvious that the shovel of the ski really pulls me right around in a tight radius.**Not the roughly 17 m radius that is the sidecut of the ski. The shovel and sidecut being 2 different radii is on their website. As I go progressively faster, this front tip still continues to strongly hook and pull that tight radius and I just have to use a lot more muscles to keep carving down the blue slope (as centripetal force gets pretty strong when you are swinging a 230lb mass with more and more velocity around a tight radius. Then Chattering getting stronger and stronger as the edges of the ski fight to hold. I have felt that even at moderately fast speeds, I need to almost entirely unload pressure from the front shovel in order to get it disengaged enough that it isn't making the whole ski buck. And to allow the 17m radius to work without being strongly pulled/pushed. I think that at my weight, when going fast there is too much continual pressure on the shovel for it to disengage enough for a smooth transition to longer radius turns.
?? Is more of the shovel of the ski on the snow as you put more pressure on the ski when you go faster? (like when you have a rocker or early rise tip/tail and supposedly when really carving and tipping it on edge, you are getting more of the ski edge on the snow) ?
.. I fooled around with changing how I ski these skis over the first run. I can have the 17m radius of the ski sidecut ,and make "normal" length turns (as opposed to pretending I'm a slalom racer) if I do not pressure the front of my boots in any way. Which literally requires me to put all the weight of my body on the middle arch and heels of my feet. And then I have to continue in this manner. You can ski blue groomers poorly in this manner, but not no fall zones in the canadian rockies--In which my Atomic's performed with no thought to their being there; as if they were an extension of my body. (But I was able to demo 30 skis for free before I picked them, and right now I can't demo anything for free) And not the Kastle MX line--only some of the others. BMX..
A. guess that the torsional stiffness is not enough and demo the Stockli VXL ($60 to demo) and the current Atomic Nomad Crimson($50 demo) and then sell off the MX88 -168
B. Sell off the MX88 -168 and buy the 178, hoping that would solve it.
C. Keep the MX88 Assume that a certain amount of weight loss would create force loads that allow me to ski it like I read everyone else whom all seem to be demoing/skiing the 178..Skiing my Atomic's until that point(probably next year)
Thank You Everyone and Anyone who responds!