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Side wall and side lip prep - leading practices

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Q1. What's your practice on cutting/planing out the sidewall to a thin layer WITHOUT digging into the core--to create room for desired edge angle as the side edge wears out, i.e., on old skis?

Q2. do you ever use the square carbide blade--as opposed to the round--for your sandwich construction skis? If yes, for what?

Q3. What's your preferred edge set up, B, C or other?
post #2 of 11
post #3 of 11

I am interested in this topic as well. I recently bought a new pair of skis and tuned the side edge with a file. The file was bumped up against the sidewall. I didn't want to buy a side edge planer so I just filed the sidewall off along with the side edge and it seemed to work just fine for me. Surely there must be a reason why people use an edge planer though?

post #4 of 11

^^^ if you don't want to go to all the trouble shown in the videos, you should at least consider using a 7 degree file guide and a bastard file to file down the side edge so it's just barely taking off some of the material from nearest corner of the metal edge.  That way the edge you put on your side will not be interfered with and you can use some stones and make your edges last longer.

post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Cantin - A well design planer makes the job so much easier than a panzer/7 degree bevel. In addition, it can remove the side wall in ways that files can't.

NN - None of my three questions above is addressed in any of publicly available video instructions that I know of, SVST, Starthaus, Artech, etc.
post #6 of 11

I envy the sidewall planer shown here in this starthause video (wait for it)


post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
I use the Swix dual blade combo. Good enough. Not the best.

Below is my personal recommendation.


The flat surface that glides on the base and the blade positioned on one side allow for far superior control on cut angle and force distribution, which helps prevent accidental digs and gauges that often happen with mid mounted floating blades, like mine, one in the starthaus vid, svst, etc.
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
As kindly explained by JS with Starthaus...

A1. Won't happen. You will run out of the edge before the sidewall.
A2. The square blade is preferred for capped skis but can be used for B-Angled Approach on sandwich construction skis. You tilt the square blade to cut the lip at a steeper angle. This was very briefly mentioned in the starthaus video. ** I use a 7 degree file for the angled approach but the cut angle is not as steep as shown on the pic, thus requiring even more frequent sidewall maintenance.
A3. B is less susceptible to damage under unexpected/undesired skiing conditions--say hitting rocks--but more laborious to upkeep. C is the opposite.
post #9 of 11
From Epic's own article:

"Usually cap skis like Atomic recommend the round blades, while sandwich skis seem to do well with the square blades."

And from Tognar:

This is a replacement for the round blade included with the tool
Round blades work well on skis with cap construction (angled sidewalls).
This is an optional blade for the Ergo sidewall planer.
Square blades work well on skis with traditional sidewall construction (vertical sidewalls)."

I've been following the above. Which is it? I own both types of skis and both blades. Don't think I got the direction from above, might be from the package, but I'd like an official ruling. ;-)
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Right now, the round blade is my choice personally as the only variable for it in its cutting action is depth and reach. The square blade has one more variable--the angle. I will soon figure out a way to make good use out of the square blade.
post #11 of 11

I agree with Mr. Schaffner, and I use the same round blade planer on sandwich skis. I don't know where the round blade for cap ski argument ever came from, but I don't like it. On cap skis I've had (various Salomon and Atomic race skis), the lip that sits over the edge is much larger than on traditional sidewalls. The round blade won't pull enough material without multiple passes with adjustments in between. A square blade at a high angle (greater than 7 degrees) will pull back the bigger lip.


That said, I only prep the sidewall for edge clearance. I do have a pair of fully prepped super-g skis I picked up secondhand where the sidewalls are as smooth as the top sheet - really nice, but I'm too lazy to do that. If I get beat because somebody spent the night wax and buffing sidewalls, so be it, I was too busy drinking beer.

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